CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

How To Convert A 1990 Suburban Half Ton 350 TBI To A Dually?

@diesel4me, I almost recommended finding a set of dual wheel adapters for his stock 10-bolt (SOMEONE has gotta be making them, right?), but the more I thought about it the more I really disliked like that idea. The single outer hub bearing on a 10-bolt is just not in the same category as the pair of bearings supporting the 10.5" full floating hub.
 
@diesel4me, I almost recommended finding a set of dual wheel adapters for his stock 10-bolt (SOMEONE has gotta be making them, right?), but the more I thought about it the more I really disliked like that idea. The single outer hub bearing on a 10-bolt is just not in the same category as the pair of bearings supporting the 10.5" full floating hub.
Wait....my suburban has 6 bolts
 
Wait....my suburban has 6 bolts

You have six lugs on your hub, yes. But your 8.5" differential has 10 bolts holding its cover on. Since folks are so good at giving names, this axle is known as a 10-bolt. 9.5" semi-float and 10.5" full-float axles on 3/4-ton and 1-ton trucks have 14 cover bolts, and are creatively known as 14-bolts. 9.5" axles can have either 6 or 8 lugs, 10.5" full float axles are 8 lug only.

It's not a great naming system, but that's what I meant when I said "10-bolt."
 
You have six lugs on your hub, yes. But your 8.5" differential has 10 bolts holding its cover on. Since folks are so good at giving names, this axle is known as a 10-bolt. 9.5" semi-float and 10.5" full-float axles on 3/4-ton and 1-ton trucks have 14 cover bolts, and are creatively known as 14-bolts. 9.5" axles can have either 6 or 8 lugs, 10.5" full float axles are 8 lug only.

It's not a great naming system, but that's what I meant when I said "10-bolt."
So its simple to just get adapters and make sure their tighten so they wont come off if i hit a bump....
 
So its simple to just get adapters amd make sute theire tighten so they wont come off if i hit a bump....

Simple? No, not with a 1/2-ton axle. I'm not sure where you'd find dually rims for a 6-lug pattern, first of all. Nor do I know where you'd find such an adapter for a 6-lug pattern.

And then if you are able to solve both of those problems you'll have the problem of putting a significant amount of extra width on the axle. For a semi-floating axle, this puts more bending moment on the axle shaft (and the housing, too). Will this cause problems? I don't know for sure, but I do know that 8.5" axles are not particularly overbuilt. Even if you don't have the ever-popular G80 carrier fragmenting issue ("Gov-bomb"), the axles aren't towing axles. There's a reason that 1/2-ton trucks with towing packages received the 9.5" axle. Doing what you're proposing may work out, but know that you'd be well beyond GM's intention for this axle.
 
And then if you are able to solve both of those problems you'll have the problem of putting a significant amount of extra width on the axle. For a semi-floating axle, this puts more bending moment on the axle shaft (and the housing, too). Will this cause problems? I don't know for sure, but I do know that 8.5" axles are not particularly overbuilt. Even if you don't have the ever-popular G80 carrier fragmenting issue ("Gov-bomb"), the axles aren't towing axles. There's a reason that 1/2-ton trucks with towing packages received the 9.5" axle. Doing what you're proposing may work out, but know that you'd be well beyond GM's intention for this axle.

These points would also apply to the 9.5" 14-bolt (also a semi-floater), but with that axle you'd be starting out with some safety margin, as that axle was intended for medium-duty towing. Would it work? Again, I can't know that ahead of time, but the chance of failure would be lower. And putting duals on a narrow 14BFF would just be a normal factory option.
 
Actually they DO list dually adapters for all 5 and 6 lug half tons in the old J.C. Whitney catalog I have,even for mini-trucks like Toyota's and Rangers,Vans too..the ad says to use "original steel rims " with no modification..

But yeah,I'd be nervous even with just the extra tire and rim load on the 1/2 ton's semi floating axle bearings,never mind overloading it with additional weight...I'd at least want an 8 lug 14 bolt Semi-Floater minimum,the full floater would be my first choice..then the frame will be the weakest link...

Remember the frame is beefed up considerably by the bed on a pickup,or the body on a Burb too,if still firmly attached the body shares much of the load,more so on a Burb than a truck bed,but they still add strength..

An old book I have that shows how they used to build car haulers out of ordinary 3/4 ton pickups back in the 50's and 60's ,all they did was extend the frame rails,and stitch weld a 1" solid square stock lengthwise under each rail from the cab back,and they used to haul cars weighing much more than most we drive today without too much trouble..they built them so the cars sat between both axles,so the front one took as much load as the rears,not so much on just the rear axle alone too--weight distribution is important..
 
Dually Suburbans

ff616100ba83a0fba48eb42ac4530f10.jpg




b0dd07ac.jpg
 
Actually they DO list dually adapters for all 5 and 6 lug half tons in the old J.C. Whitney catalog I have,even for mini-trucks like Toyota's and Rangers,Vans too..the ad says to use "original steel rims " with no modification..

Well that was easy. How wide is the spacer if it allows for stock wagon wheels? :eek1:
 
I know of many who twisted the left hand lugs off 60's Mopars--the drivers side had them...they stamp an "L" on the nut end of the studs,but I guess people never knew what it stood for..

I had to wonder,reading the listing for those dually adapters,why you have to tell if your Mazda has a rotary or piston engine,to get the right rear fenders for the dually conversion ?...why the hell would that matter ?..but I'm not surprised--being a former parts counterman,I've seen a lot of screwy listings for parts--.

I think it would be neat looking to put dually rears on something never intended for them--like an SUV,or a car..turn some heads for sure..

One disadvantage to these adapters and fenders is you are likely to "forget" those fenders and tires are now sticking out a foot wider than your truck was before...might not fit in your garage door opening any more,or that narrow alleyway you use for a short cut!...get yourself in a real "jam"...:blush:
 
What's the point of a dually semi-float 10-bolt? It's easy to find tires that can handle more load than a 10-bolt can take. The dually conversion should start with a DRW 14-bolt. Probably cheaper than the adapters shown above and would actually provide a benefit. Having 2x the wheel/tire weight on a 10-bolt just means it will break sooner.
 
What's the point of a dually semi-float 10-bolt? It's easy to find tires that can handle more load than a 10-bolt can take. The dually conversion should start with a DRW 14-bolt. Probably cheaper than the adapters shown above and would actually provide a benefit. Having 2x the wheel/tire weight on a 10-bolt just means it will break sooner.


I agree its not a very wise "conversion"...a 10 ply single tire would far exceed a 10 bolt rear's weight capacity...

One thing I dislike about dually axles is the rear wheel cylinders SUCK to change,and the bleeder screws are a mutha to get at too,thanks to the leaf springs being close enough to almost touch the backing plates...rear discs are the way to go,but thats more $$$...best to put new wheel cylinders in while the axle is out of the truck,if your going to replace them..
 
I agree with Blue85. I would not run duals on the stock 10 bolt axle. The extra spinning mass will add extra stress (twisting) to an already marginal axle, along with using the leverage of extending the weight away from the end of the axle to add more stress on the already smallish outer wheel bearing. It will be a disaster in the making. Remember, your family will riding with you...
 
Actually they DO list dually adapters for all 5 and 6 lug half tons in the old J.C. Whitney catalog I have,even for mini-trucks like Toyota's and Rangers,Vans too..the ad says to use "original steel rims " with no modification..

But yeah,I'd be nervous even with just the extra tire and rim load on the 1/2 ton's semi floating axle bearings,never mind overloading it with additional weight...I'd at least want an 8 lug 14 bolt Semi-Floater minimum,the full floater would be my first choice..then the frame will be the weakest link...

Remember the frame is beefed up considerably by the bed on a pickup,or the body on a Burb too,if still firmly attached the body shares much of the load,more so on a Burb than a truck bed,but they still add strength..

An old book I have that shows how they used to build car haulers out of ordinary 3/4 ton pickups back in the 50's and 60's ,all they did was extend the frame rails,and stitch weld a 1" solid square stock lengthwise under each rail from the cab back,and they used to haul cars weighing much more than most we drive today without too much trouble..they built them so the cars sat between both axles,so the front one took as much load as the rears,not so much on just the rear axle alone too--weight distribution is important..

With all the reading on this thread i might as well jist get a dually C/K R/V 4door Silverado as a third vehicle later....
 
Don't you already have a 4-door truck?
The suburban yes. However ive been thinking about ektjer getting a dually truck or converting the suburban to a dually. Of course its not a 3 quarter ton and instead a half ton which it has to be 3quarter ton to have the rear axle
 
Top Bottom