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How to determine bore size for ram

M

Mudstud

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I have my box tapped with 1/4 npt. My pump is modded. All I lack is the ram and lines/brackets. Looking at rams I see 1.5", 1.75" 2", 2.5" and even 3" with 8" strokes. I see the kind like Lion and Cheif seem to have larger diameter shafts. Swivel ends would be nice but the ones WTO sells are for a 5/8 shaft so I wouldn't be able to just screw them on.

Bottom line, why should I go with a $160 - $180 ram when they do the same thing and seem to last just fine in the same situations?

How do i determiine which bore I should go with?

http://www.wholesalehydraulics.com/ Found this wholesale place- call for pricing.

This might be the diamond right here. http://baileynet.com/./links/catalog.pdf
Down load the catalog and check prices.
 
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Use this equation to figure out how much force you need out of it. Force=Area(of piston) x pressure. On a 1000psi system i would think that a 1.75in would work but I would lean more towards using a 2in. It all depends on tire size, locked or unlocked, vehicle weight, ect...
 
I'm using a 1.5" I believe, but mine sees a fair amount of street driving, it is a second hand WTO Redneck Ram setup. The bigger the bore, the stronger they are. The smaller the bore, the faster. I don't seem to have any problems turning my 40's with 1.5" and it reacts respectably quickly on the street. I probably would'nt go any bigger than 2" if it sees the street for fear that it would be to slow if you needed to make any evasive manuevers. My $0.02.
 
I"ve heard anything bigger than 1.5 is too slow to "comfortably" drive on the street or correct at speed.

I'm running a Rock Logic 1.5" and really like it. Once I got a working steering box put in and the pump mod done, I can turn my 38.5's on H1's lock to lock with them at 5 PSI on dry pavement with my pinky.
 
If the rig is street driven you need a 1.5" x 8" ram. Anything larger on the bore and the ram works too slow and will be the limiting factor on turning your steering wheel. If it's going on a tie rod in stock location then the 8" stroke is needed, if you're going hi-steer then the 6" stroke is needed. I have a 1.5" x 8" PSC ram and love it. My rig is my DD and it works perfectly on the street. I haven't had a single leak and it's been on for about 2 years now. I was just on PSC's website the other day and you can get the ram with the mounting hardware for $165.00. http://www.pscmotorsports.com/produ...d=552&osCsid=1194c069cb0da2dafe60d90de900c7f4
 
If I can get the death wobble worked out I would like to drive it more on the street. It's currently open in the front but hopefully that will change at some point.

The main question is why should I spend $165 on a ram when others are running $60 - $70 rams? Guess I'ld like to hear from the guys running the cheaper rams (Lions or Chiefs). It'd be cool to simply put the ram on in place of the stock stabolizer for now but I'd have to have swivle ends to prevent binding and a small body to fit between the axle and tierod. I'm not opposed to mounting it myself though.

So who's running the cheaper rams, come on I know you're out there. :wink1:
How you like them?
 
Mudstud said:
If I can get the death wobble worked out I would like to drive it more on the street. It's currently open in the front but hopefully that will change at some point.

The main question is why should I spend $165 on a ram when others are running $60 - $70 rams? Guess I'ld like to hear from the guys running the cheaper rams (Lions or Chiefs). It'd be cool to simply put the ram on in place of the stock stabolizer for now but I'd have to have swivle ends to prevent binding and a small body to fit between the axle and tierod. I'm not opposed to mounting it myself though.

So who's running the cheaper rams, come on I know you're out there. :wink1:
How you like them?
Click to expand...

My death wobble went almost completely away after installing the ram. When I feel it start I just give the wheel a quick "flick" and the ram overpowers it and it goes away. 38.5"s and heavy, unbalanced H1's make for some nasty DW, even with shimmed kingpins :eek1:

The reason I went with the Rock Logic is because I have 2 friends who had them, both loved them, they were easy to install and I was in a hurry and didn't have time to fabricate & tinker to make a cheaper one work, so it was worth the extra bit of dough to have everything I needed to make it work.

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The only thing I want to change is I want to put 90* fittings on it instead of straight ones for easier hydraulic hose routing
 
The cheaper rams are usually physically larger in diameter, and usually have a welded mount on one end at best and they aren't very forgiving of movement without binding. That beig said, it is better to buy a quality ram that is smaller and tucks into tight places easier and DON'T LEAK like the cheap rams usually do.
 
Elbow Fitting, #6 JIC WTF does JIC stand for? Never heard of that before researching this stuff.
 
JIC stands for Joint International Council they are who sets the standards for various types of fittings.

The number in front of the JIC tells the size of the fitting in 1/16ths of an inch. 6/16=3/8"

A -6 JIC fitting is a 3/8" 37 degree flare fitting. They are like AN fittings but not exactly the same. The thread class is different, AN fittings have a better class of thread. AN and JIC will work together, I have them on my fuel system on my truck and they don't leak.

Mike
 
Good info there. AN and JIC thread into eachother but since my box is ported at 1/4" NPT I'll need an adaptor it sounds like, Unless I run 1/4" fittings of course. You guys who run 1/4" NPT outta the box running the 1/4 or 3/8 lines? No benefit running the larger if the bottle neck is 1/4 right?
 
If you do order from PSC or Redneck they can leave the ends loose so you can figure out how much throw to limit from pushing on the knuckles when you don't need it.
 
Yea I emailed NWF (cuz I run their crossover set up with double ended arm) about when/if I go hi steer what the stroke is with the tierod mounted behind the axle and they suggest an 8" ram with the adjustable ends to limit it to about 7" of stroke. This is enough of a reason for me to ditch the cheap ram set up and go for the good dtuff now.

I think I have decided on the PSC 1.5x8 with ends, end hardware and mounting tabs for 135 from PORC. All I need are lines now. Northern Tool has up to 48" of 1/4 line for like 8 or 9 bucks a piece and they carry many adaptors. I know I want 90* swivel ends on the ram side and regular 90 ends on the box side.
 
I just measured the throw on the stock located tierod and it measures
8 7/8" stop to stop. Is this odd? Is this too much?
 
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