What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

How to drop t-case

L

la_blazer82

1/2 ton status
Joined
Apr 12, 2004
Posts
148
Reaction score
0
Location
SoCal
I'll be adding a ORD flip and 4" TC springs in about two weeks. I'm also swapping in a 14bff and 10b 8lug. How do I drop down the t-case to accommodate for the lift. I didn't think I needed to drop it; this is why I went with 4" instead of 6" lift that I was thinking about
 
Easiest way is the bolts that hold in the crossmember should have spacers above the frame. Take the bolts out and put the spacers between the frame and crossmember
 
you didnt read the post. I said it HAS spacers on the bolts above the frame. They just need to be moved below the frame to drop the crossmember
 
[ QUOTE ]
you didnt read the post. I said it HAS spacers on the bolts above the frame. They just need to be moved below the frame to drop the crossmember

[/ QUOTE ]
There were a few posts on here some time back about using the stock spacers and how it caused the frame to crack. General opinion then was that it was better to use some solid blocks the full width of the cross member. Ally would work well.
Also, don't drop it too far as the distributor (if you've got HEI) hits the firewall. You can get it close but remember that the engine moves quite a bit when you're wheelin'. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Do the lift without dropping it an see how it is, you may not need it. I have done 4" lifts and 6" lifts on K5s, and never dropped a t-case..
 
[ QUOTE ]
Do the lift without dropping it an see how it is, you may not need it. I have done 4" lifts and 6" lifts on K5s, and never dropped a t-case..

[/ QUOTE ]

Agreed there. I don't know why you guys are dropping your transfer cases anyway. Your front driveshaft is shorter than your rear and you're killing your front driveshaft angle in doing so.
 
If you get vibrations in the driveline after the lift....

I've never been a fan of t-case drops.
 
If you get vibrations after a lift, your angles are wrong. Measure the angles and shim accordingly or move perches. Pretty much a no brainer on that one. Angle finders are $9 at Home Depot and I'm the proud owner of one.
 
Thats why some do a t-case drop cause they dont have the means to move the perches. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grind.gif /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Do the lift without dropping it an see how it is, you may not need it. I have done 4" lifts and 6" lifts on K5s, and never dropped a t-case..

[/ QUOTE ]

Agreed there. I don't know why you guys are dropping your transfer cases anyway. Your front driveshaft is shorter than your rear and you're killing your front driveshaft angle in doing so.

[/ QUOTE ]

Not sure that I need to yet, but I was going off one of the "technical" articles on this site, which dealt with changing out 4" blocks for an ORD flip. It stated that if doing this (ORD flip) as a first lift, you need to drop the t-case.

As I mentioned in one of the posts above, the reason I am going with the 4" opposed to a 6" lift, was that I didn't think I needed to mess with the t-case

I can buy a degree finder, but what is involved in shimming the driveshaft. In other words, I have no idea how to go about this
 
The shimming he is refering to to is the shims that go between the spring perches and the springs themselves. They are little wedge shapped metal pieces that help correct pinion angle. With the flip though you probably wont have to shim unless it vibrates. Even so though make sure it isnt the t-case end of the driveshaft that is binding. That is the onle real reason to drop a t-case down, to fix the output yoke angle. Other than that their is no reason to drop it down because it will screw up your front driveshaft angle.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Thats why some do a t-case drop cause they dont have the means to move the perches. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grind.gif /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

I would be willing to bet that the majority of you guys that have lowered your transfer cases are binding your front driveshaft as a result. The engine is sloped back in our trucks about 4* from the factory. Lowering the transfer case 1" makes that more like 6-7*. Of course I don't know every combo that's out there, but I know that with even 6" of lift it doesn't take long before you bind up the stock driveshaft.

I understand that everyone wants to reduce the operating angle of the rear shaft, and that's great because that's the one that sees all the use, but I would seriously reconsider, because your front shaft is going to work twice as hard as a result.
 
You could run a degree shim like 454 is talking about in the rear. But moving the perches is a better way.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom