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How to hold up motor during install of ORD engine crossmember?

dremu

dremu

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As subject; in a week or two I'll be putting in the ORD crossmember, to keep my (straight) draglink from becoming one with the factory crossmember.

Question is, how to hold the motor up while I get the factory stuff out?

Can I just chain the engine to a bolt in an accessory hole, do I have to remove the carb and use a carb plate, other?

This'll be going into a fully assembled, running drivetrain, i.e. the tranmission and T-cases will be on the back end, but I don't want to drop a smallblock on my head :D

-- A
 
do you have to remove the motor mounts too?

When I installed mine (homebrew not the ord one but should be the same process) I jacked it up just a little and put a jack stand with a short 2x6 under the sump on the oil pan.
 
Square block of wood under the oil pan (supporting the complete sump) with a jack holding it in place OR a cherry picker and chain from the top side.
 
4X4HIGH said:
Square block of wood under the oil pan (supporting the complete sump) with a jack holding it in place OR a cherry picker and chain from the top side.
Click to expand...

Seeing as my increasingly fat and decreasingly nimble self -- and my fingers to which I am quite attached -- will be UNDER there, I'm liking the cherrypicker/chain idea. More stable than pushing from underneath, especially since I expect to sawzall the factory crossmember to get it out.

Sounds like it doesn't have to carry a ton of weight, though, so I can just chain to an accessory bolt in each head, yeah? There's a leveler somewhere out in the shed, so I can balance side-to-side it fairly well.

-- A
 
Depending on the accessories that might be in the way, a big strap under the engine with the board on the pan, and possibly a spreader on top to keep the strap from constricting on the engine will work if the lifting eyes are gone.

I have got some that are about 6 or 8 inches wide, double layer, maybe 10 feet long with eyes sewn in each end.

Friend of mine works at the local port, and they have to replace the slings every so often just in case.
A sling that was rated at 100k and in good shape, will handle anything around here that I might ever want to pick up, safely.
 
I have done mounts by jacking the engine, then running a 4x4 across the fenders then stap the engine to the wood. Pull the front exhaust manifold bolts and use longer bolts to hook too.
 
What I used to do is make a cradle out of scrap steel piping. If you have the means, then get yourself a straight piece that is the width of your engine bay and make some triangulated legs on each end to rest on the fender lip, use some small to medium turn buckles and some chain or cable to attach to engine, adjust the turn buckle to the exact rest height and then remove cross member. Then reattach new one and your done. Just a idea for you, cost all of 15 bucks and about 2 hrs of making. In the pic is also a support H piece made to keep the engine from moving front or backwards. Engine never leaves its original spot and the crossmember justs drops down, and away, and you just reinstall or do what ever you have to do, and it is safe, and effortless.

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What about the frame rails flexing in/out? Seems like with the factory crossmember cut loose the rails might want to "curl" some.
 
If that is an issue with you, then you tack yourself a straight piece of stock at the frame horns, but with bumper in place, and the rest of the lateral support goin back, you will be OK, never had an issue with one. You got to remember that the wt is not resting, it is supported.
 
SkyJumper said:
What I used to do is make a cradle out of scrap steel piping. If you have the means, then get yourself a straight piece that is the width of your engine bay and make some triangulated legs on each end to rest on the fender lip, use some small to medium turn buckles and some chain or cable to attach to engine, adjust the turn buckle to the exact rest height and then remove cross member. Then reattach new one and your done. Just a idea for you, cost all of 15 bucks and about 2 hrs of making. In the pic is also a support H piece made to keep the engine from moving front or backwards. Engine never leaves its original spot and the crossmember justs drops down, and away, and you just reinstall or do what ever you have to do, and it is safe, and effortless.
Click to expand...

That is dead seckseh :haha: Total overkill for what I'm doing... but slick :bow:

-- A
 
It is just an idea I have used many times. It allows you to not have to unbolt bell housings, or other parts as it is left in its original spot and lets you just drop the crossmember. Frames are pretty damn strong, flexing on you or curling is not a likely issue tht I have ever experienced. And most of the times I was replacing K-members and also cross members.
 
SkyJumper said:
What I used to do is make a cradle out of scrap steel piping. If you have the means, then get yourself a straight piece that is the width of your engine bay and make some triangulated legs on each end to rest on the fender lip, use some small to medium turn buckles and some chain or cable to attach to engine, adjust the turn buckle to the exact rest height and then remove cross member. Then reattach new one and your done. Just a idea for you, cost all of 15 bucks and about 2 hrs of making. In the pic is also a support H piece made to keep the engine from moving front or backwards. Engine never leaves its original spot and the crossmember justs drops down, and away, and you just reinstall or do what ever you have to do, and it is safe, and effortless.

View attachment 121317

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Click to expand...

I saw that today when i was dropping off some tires at a different shop. Guy used a single come along though. Definitley looked very cool.
 
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