CK5
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how to load / unload a dead wheel on a rollback
- Thread starter sweetk30
- Start date
step 1 = back up to the NON dead wheel end .
step 2 = put your bed down and touch the tires . but the trick is get in as tight as you can so you still have more bed to kick out and tilt up so your landing leg's are off the ground .
step 3 = take and hook your winch cable bridal chain hooks to the correct FACTORY tow holes or axle points . next get the winch snug DO NOT load on bed yet .
step 4 = take a pair of 4x4 lumber blocks and block the dead end wheels from moving . your blocking the vehicle from going TO the tow truck .
step 5 = take a second pair of 4x4 lumber blocks and block the tow truck drive tires on the side you WILL be running the controls on so you can move them as needed . 1 block goes in front to the rollback will NOT roll away from the vehicle being loaded . the 2nd one will be spaced 1ft - 2ft back away from the drive tires . this gives you room to roll the rollback in the next few steps .
step 6 = put the disabled vehicle in neutral if the drive axle is to be loaded first . this is to let the tires roll like normal up the bed . if its not the drive end leave it in park .
step 7 = now winch in AND bed out at the SAME time to push the bed under the tires . once your on 1ft of he bed stop .
step 8 = put the rollback in neutral and release the parking brake and make sure the rollback wheels are lined up to the dead vehicle so the rollback goes straight under the dead vehicle .
step 9 = now the MAGIC HAPPENS . . . . tilt your bed up just to the point of getting your landing legs off the ground 2-3 inches .
step 10 = winch in and start sucking the rollback under the dead vehicle . make sure you watch the blocks of wood on both the dead vehicle and rollback . dont roll over them .
step 11 = at some point it is also good to pull your bed in to the cab of the rollback . this trick helps get you a bit of wiggle room later on .
step 12 = move the blocks of wood at the drive tire on the rollback as needed to keep the truck under control and not get away from you .
step 13 = keep a eye on the under side of the vehicle and your bed so you do NOT hook an exhaust or other parts with the end of the bed . cause as you suck the rollback under the bed tip get real close to the under side of the vehicle .
step 14 = once your as close to the DEAD tire as you can get put the rollback back in PARK and set your parking brake if you do normally .
step 15 = now slide the bed out as you winch in . get the tip of the bed as close to getting under the tires as possible . remove the wood blocks and slide under the tires just like you did in the beginning . if need be lube the bed were the tire will hit with P.B. BLASTER so the tire will slide on the bed like a hot knife on butter . this keeps the tire from binding up on the bed and walking around and doing more damage .
step 16 = now slide it on 1ft and stop .
step 17 = now strap it down and secure the vehicle and go deliver it .
step 2 = put your bed down and touch the tires . but the trick is get in as tight as you can so you still have more bed to kick out and tilt up so your landing leg's are off the ground .
step 3 = take and hook your winch cable bridal chain hooks to the correct FACTORY tow holes or axle points . next get the winch snug DO NOT load on bed yet .
step 4 = take a pair of 4x4 lumber blocks and block the dead end wheels from moving . your blocking the vehicle from going TO the tow truck .
step 5 = take a second pair of 4x4 lumber blocks and block the tow truck drive tires on the side you WILL be running the controls on so you can move them as needed . 1 block goes in front to the rollback will NOT roll away from the vehicle being loaded . the 2nd one will be spaced 1ft - 2ft back away from the drive tires . this gives you room to roll the rollback in the next few steps .
step 6 = put the disabled vehicle in neutral if the drive axle is to be loaded first . this is to let the tires roll like normal up the bed . if its not the drive end leave it in park .
step 7 = now winch in AND bed out at the SAME time to push the bed under the tires . once your on 1ft of he bed stop .
step 8 = put the rollback in neutral and release the parking brake and make sure the rollback wheels are lined up to the dead vehicle so the rollback goes straight under the dead vehicle .
step 9 = now the MAGIC HAPPENS . . . . tilt your bed up just to the point of getting your landing legs off the ground 2-3 inches .
step 10 = winch in and start sucking the rollback under the dead vehicle . make sure you watch the blocks of wood on both the dead vehicle and rollback . dont roll over them .
step 11 = at some point it is also good to pull your bed in to the cab of the rollback . this trick helps get you a bit of wiggle room later on .
step 12 = move the blocks of wood at the drive tire on the rollback as needed to keep the truck under control and not get away from you .
step 13 = keep a eye on the under side of the vehicle and your bed so you do NOT hook an exhaust or other parts with the end of the bed . cause as you suck the rollback under the bed tip get real close to the under side of the vehicle .
step 14 = once your as close to the DEAD tire as you can get put the rollback back in PARK and set your parking brake if you do normally .
step 15 = now slide the bed out as you winch in . get the tip of the bed as close to getting under the tires as possible . remove the wood blocks and slide under the tires just like you did in the beginning . if need be lube the bed were the tire will hit with P.B. BLASTER so the tire will slide on the bed like a hot knife on butter . this keeps the tire from binding up on the bed and walking around and doing more damage .
step 16 = now slide it on 1ft and stop .
step 17 = now strap it down and secure the vehicle and go deliver it .
if need be another trick is a few 4x4 or 6x6 blocks of wood under the frame / uni-body / pinch weld and tip the bed up to make the dead wheel float as you load it .
the p.b. blaster is a great tire to bed lube . its real slick and wont harm any thing on the tires . also its cheep / easy to get . the best part is 10 min or so of driving down the road its dry so you dont step on it and slide on your a$$ .
the p.b. blaster is a great tire to bed lube . its real slick and wont harm any thing on the tires . also its cheep / easy to get . the best part is 10 min or so of driving down the road its dry so you dont step on it and slide on your a$$ .
to unload is a reverse of the steps of loading the vehicle .
but you use the wheel lift to push your self out from under the vehicle as you unload . all the same steps of loading but backwards . and winch out a bit for slack and then wheel lift down and then out to roll your truck out from under the vehicle . it takes 3-4 movements like this to be out from under the dead vehicle .
also before you get to the main unloading parts you have he option of setting the dead end of the vehicle on a block of wood if parking lot / driveway dropping . if shop unload in to a bay with a lift you use a floor jack to act as the 4th wheel and the mechanic steers the floor jack as you winch off the vehicle 100% like normal . and shop guys LOVE this option if they have a bay open . they will call you more / refer you more / and make great friends . . . . saves them a lot of bull crap .
all this info seems like a lot but do this 2-3 times in your storage load on a dead junk car . doing it this way gets you good practice and familiar with the steps . once you do it 1-2 times its SUPER EASY to do on the job .
i did this 1 time with a ford t-bird with full custom paint . the tire was over 90* out the side with NO body/paint damage yet . it was in the middle of the road on a bridge . . . i got this car on with 2 4x4 blocks of wood 1 under each pinch weld . loaded it with ZERO damage and delivered to his house garage and off with ZERO extra damage and paint still 100% intact .
hope this helps you fellow tow operators out . and use this as a idea / tool / and at your own risk . each job is different and i have no liability in the use of this info .
but you use the wheel lift to push your self out from under the vehicle as you unload . all the same steps of loading but backwards . and winch out a bit for slack and then wheel lift down and then out to roll your truck out from under the vehicle . it takes 3-4 movements like this to be out from under the dead vehicle .
also before you get to the main unloading parts you have he option of setting the dead end of the vehicle on a block of wood if parking lot / driveway dropping . if shop unload in to a bay with a lift you use a floor jack to act as the 4th wheel and the mechanic steers the floor jack as you winch off the vehicle 100% like normal . and shop guys LOVE this option if they have a bay open . they will call you more / refer you more / and make great friends . . . . saves them a lot of bull crap .
all this info seems like a lot but do this 2-3 times in your storage load on a dead junk car . doing it this way gets you good practice and familiar with the steps . once you do it 1-2 times its SUPER EASY to do on the job .
i did this 1 time with a ford t-bird with full custom paint . the tire was over 90* out the side with NO body/paint damage yet . it was in the middle of the road on a bridge . . . i got this car on with 2 4x4 blocks of wood 1 under each pinch weld . loaded it with ZERO damage and delivered to his house garage and off with ZERO extra damage and paint still 100% intact .
hope this helps you fellow tow operators out . and use this as a idea / tool / and at your own risk . each job is different and i have no liability in the use of this info .
My trucks PTO doesn't work unless truck is in park.
I usually pull of the wheel, set the lower a-arm on a container skid and slide it up the bed. Never scratched a car unless I wanted to.
Don't piss off your tow driver lol.
Here's a car from last night. Forking drunks.....Should have taken pics while loading.
I usually pull of the wheel, set the lower a-arm on a container skid and slide it up the bed. Never scratched a car unless I wanted to.
Don't piss off your tow driver lol.
Here's a car from last night. Forking drunks.....Should have taken pics while loading.
ya i dont get why the newer stuff done work unless in park and park brake set . . . this removes the option of loading the way i described and or getting your self out of trouble with the wheel lift .
red EOD
1/2 ton status
Done to keep the typical 'honk and steer' drivers/operators from driving down the road with the PTO engaged.
Many "safety" features like that are just because of law suits.
