xanthias
1/2 ton status
I know this has been done before, in fact right here on CK5, but I thought I would offer my contribution. Hope it helps someone.
The Project:
If you have the typical GM truck steering column, you may have a few common problems from wear or damage (theft). The first is a loose tilt mechanism, where your column is wobbly all the time. The second is where the turn signal mechanism, which is plastic, is broken from time and use. A third all too common issue is a broken or trashed ignition cylinder.
In this example, we will be working with a 1982 manual column, which means there is no gear shift mechanism on the column, making it a tad simpler but not very different from an auto application. I did not have a loose tilt, but did need a new signal switch mechanism, new turn signal cancel cam, new ignition cylinder and new steering wheel.
Other write-ups:
These guides go a bit farther than mine, because they will take you on down to the level where you fix the wobbly column bolts, which I did not have to do.
http://elcaminocentral.com/article95.html
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198595
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45384
Parts:
NAPA P/N DL6505 is the replacement turn signal switch assembly. At the right, you see the new canceling cam/horn assembly, which is NAPA P/N 735-2188.
At left, you see the ignition switch module, which is NAPA P/N KS6634.
How-To:
Here is what we are starting with -
Look familiar? My example was missing the steering wheel shaft nut and clip, as well. Do yourself a favor and spray on some penetrating oil and let it sit the night before you pull the wheel.
Just to orient everyone to the internals, here is a nice little schematic of the basics inside the column (this graphic was from an article discussing the ignition switch actuator rod, hence the red arrow) -
Please note in all the pictures below, the column is upside down on my bench.
Step 1 - Pull the wheel.
Do yourself a favor and spend the $10 for the steering wheel puller.
Step 2 - Remove the lock plate.
Pictured at bottom is the lock plate and I am holding a dust shield that pops off. If your column has one, you can just gently pry it off with a screwdriver. You then need to compress the lock plate so you can remove the retaining ring:
Do yourself a big favor and spend the $10 on the lock plate compressor tool. Note that the lock plate will pull right off after you remove the ring, as it is under tension from the spring beneath. Note also the lock plate is spline-indexed to the steering shaft, so it will only go back on one way.
Step 3 - Remove turn signal assembly
The spring and turn signal canceling cam come right off. Three phillips screws hold the signal assembly in place. Remove the hazard button (phillips screw) and the turn signal stalk (same) first.
Note 25 years' of goo and filth. Note also the column shaft bearings, which we will grease up before we reassemble later.
Step 4 - Remove Ignition Module
At 9 o'clock in this view, you see the black phillips screw - it is the screw that holds the ignition cylinder in place. Remove it and the cylinder slides right out.
If all you need to do is fix a busted ignition, you are done here and can reassemble. I wasn't finished because I needed to replace the turn signal assembly, so we have more removal to do. You must pull the housing so you can thread the wiring harness through the column.
Step 5 - Remove Housing
There are three large phillips screws that hold the ignition cylinder housing in place. Don't forget to unscrew your tilt rod and remove it, too. By the way, if your housing is shattered from a theft, you can get another one through NAPA, P/N ECHKS6186.
Below, This is what you are left with after you pull off the housing. You can visualize here at 10 o'clock one of the bolts you would need to tighten if you are going on to fix the tilt mechanism (see the above write-up links).
You will also need to remove the column mounting bracket so you can thread the wiring harness.
I just cut the plug off to pull the wires out. It's a lot easier to thread the new one in than it is to try to pull the old one out intact. Now, while you have everything apart, clean everything and grease the bearings and other moving parts such as the ignition switch cam. If it had grease before, give it new grease now. Also, be sure and lightly lube the ignition actuator rod.
Step 6 - Install New Turn Signal Assembly
Thread the harness through the housing you removed and then snake it down the column. After your harness is in place, reassemble the column mounting bracket. When you are satisified the wiring harness is properly positioned, reinstall the three large phillips screws to remount the housing. Screw the tilt rod back into place. Then, slide your ignition cylinder into place and reinsert the anchor screw for it. Then turn your attention to the new turn signal assembly. The assembly only mounts one way and use the hazard button location as your guide. If you line it and the phillips mounting holes all up, you know you have it right. Finally, replace the new switch assembly with the three small phillips screws. Don't forget to put your hazard button back in and screw your turn signal stalk back down.
Don't be surprised if the action on the new switch is a lot stiffer than the old one. In fact, mine was so stiff, the turn signal canceling cam will only cancel in one direction at the moment because the springs deflect in the new assembly. I suspect this will work itself out with use and I added a little silicone lube for good measure. The turn signal canceling cam also serves as your horn ground so don't forget to put it back in. Chevys are nice in that the postion of the cam doesn't matter, just poke it back in the guide hole of the lock plate and then reindex the lock plate to the proper splines on the shaft and press it back down to replace the retaining ring.
In my case, I went on to install an aftermarket Grant wheel with its installation kit (courtesy of Autzone).
These kits come with pretty self-explanatory instructions. Take your time and you'll see it's pretty easy. The main thing is to remember to include the little ground wire that comes with the installation kit so your horn will work. I did put a tad of anti-seize on the splines of the mounting hub, in case I want to pull this wheel in 10 years. Do not get anti-seize on the steering shaft threads for the steering wheel nut.
Behold, new hotness -
The Project:
If you have the typical GM truck steering column, you may have a few common problems from wear or damage (theft). The first is a loose tilt mechanism, where your column is wobbly all the time. The second is where the turn signal mechanism, which is plastic, is broken from time and use. A third all too common issue is a broken or trashed ignition cylinder.
In this example, we will be working with a 1982 manual column, which means there is no gear shift mechanism on the column, making it a tad simpler but not very different from an auto application. I did not have a loose tilt, but did need a new signal switch mechanism, new turn signal cancel cam, new ignition cylinder and new steering wheel.
Other write-ups:
These guides go a bit farther than mine, because they will take you on down to the level where you fix the wobbly column bolts, which I did not have to do.
http://elcaminocentral.com/article95.html
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198595
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45384
Parts:
NAPA P/N DL6505 is the replacement turn signal switch assembly. At the right, you see the new canceling cam/horn assembly, which is NAPA P/N 735-2188.
At left, you see the ignition switch module, which is NAPA P/N KS6634.
How-To:
Here is what we are starting with -
Look familiar? My example was missing the steering wheel shaft nut and clip, as well. Do yourself a favor and spray on some penetrating oil and let it sit the night before you pull the wheel.
Just to orient everyone to the internals, here is a nice little schematic of the basics inside the column (this graphic was from an article discussing the ignition switch actuator rod, hence the red arrow) -
Please note in all the pictures below, the column is upside down on my bench.
Step 1 - Pull the wheel.
Do yourself a favor and spend the $10 for the steering wheel puller.
Step 2 - Remove the lock plate.
Pictured at bottom is the lock plate and I am holding a dust shield that pops off. If your column has one, you can just gently pry it off with a screwdriver. You then need to compress the lock plate so you can remove the retaining ring:
Do yourself a big favor and spend the $10 on the lock plate compressor tool. Note that the lock plate will pull right off after you remove the ring, as it is under tension from the spring beneath. Note also the lock plate is spline-indexed to the steering shaft, so it will only go back on one way.
Step 3 - Remove turn signal assembly
The spring and turn signal canceling cam come right off. Three phillips screws hold the signal assembly in place. Remove the hazard button (phillips screw) and the turn signal stalk (same) first.
Note 25 years' of goo and filth. Note also the column shaft bearings, which we will grease up before we reassemble later.
Step 4 - Remove Ignition Module
At 9 o'clock in this view, you see the black phillips screw - it is the screw that holds the ignition cylinder in place. Remove it and the cylinder slides right out.
If all you need to do is fix a busted ignition, you are done here and can reassemble. I wasn't finished because I needed to replace the turn signal assembly, so we have more removal to do. You must pull the housing so you can thread the wiring harness through the column.
Step 5 - Remove Housing
There are three large phillips screws that hold the ignition cylinder housing in place. Don't forget to unscrew your tilt rod and remove it, too. By the way, if your housing is shattered from a theft, you can get another one through NAPA, P/N ECHKS6186.
Below, This is what you are left with after you pull off the housing. You can visualize here at 10 o'clock one of the bolts you would need to tighten if you are going on to fix the tilt mechanism (see the above write-up links).
You will also need to remove the column mounting bracket so you can thread the wiring harness.
I just cut the plug off to pull the wires out. It's a lot easier to thread the new one in than it is to try to pull the old one out intact. Now, while you have everything apart, clean everything and grease the bearings and other moving parts such as the ignition switch cam. If it had grease before, give it new grease now. Also, be sure and lightly lube the ignition actuator rod.
Step 6 - Install New Turn Signal Assembly
Thread the harness through the housing you removed and then snake it down the column. After your harness is in place, reassemble the column mounting bracket. When you are satisified the wiring harness is properly positioned, reinstall the three large phillips screws to remount the housing. Screw the tilt rod back into place. Then, slide your ignition cylinder into place and reinsert the anchor screw for it. Then turn your attention to the new turn signal assembly. The assembly only mounts one way and use the hazard button location as your guide. If you line it and the phillips mounting holes all up, you know you have it right. Finally, replace the new switch assembly with the three small phillips screws. Don't forget to put your hazard button back in and screw your turn signal stalk back down.
Don't be surprised if the action on the new switch is a lot stiffer than the old one. In fact, mine was so stiff, the turn signal canceling cam will only cancel in one direction at the moment because the springs deflect in the new assembly. I suspect this will work itself out with use and I added a little silicone lube for good measure. The turn signal canceling cam also serves as your horn ground so don't forget to put it back in. Chevys are nice in that the postion of the cam doesn't matter, just poke it back in the guide hole of the lock plate and then reindex the lock plate to the proper splines on the shaft and press it back down to replace the retaining ring.
In my case, I went on to install an aftermarket Grant wheel with its installation kit (courtesy of Autzone).
These kits come with pretty self-explanatory instructions. Take your time and you'll see it's pretty easy. The main thing is to remember to include the little ground wire that comes with the installation kit so your horn will work. I did put a tad of anti-seize on the splines of the mounting hub, in case I want to pull this wheel in 10 years. Do not get anti-seize on the steering shaft threads for the steering wheel nut.
Behold, new hotness -
Last edited:
