i apologize if anyone has covered this before i did a search and couldnt find anything. on both the 84 and 86 blazer i have the window motors died and rather than sinking money into a new one i wanted to find out why they died and if they could be repaired. Turns out they are incredibly simple and there really should be no reason for a replacement. on both the cause of death was the rear window seal leaking and moisture getting into the motors causing the rust to arc out the motor.
here's the steps i took to succesfully repair both (pictures will be provided tonight.)
1. remove the two bolts.
2. lightly tap the cover that attachs to the cable and remove
3. on the plate that contains the brushes there are two clips on ether side holding it in place. (best trick i found to remove them is use one screwdriver to push down on the middle of the clip and a second to pull the top of the tab out as it comes up. ) Also note the brush springs do not need to be removed
4. Once both tabs are released the brushes will slide out,make sure to remove completely as one is attached to the outside case DO NOT PULL OFF.
5. after both brushes are out the board can be moved out of the way.
6. pull the stator out
7. on the stator clean the communtator (copper end) using emory cloth to remove the bulk of the discoloration. Dont go nuts cleaning you only want to remove a small amount.
8. this optional but i find it has great results. use a wire wheel to do a final cleaning of the communtator
9. Use a razor/compressed air to clean out the gaps in the communtator
10. use a wire wheel or sand paper to remove any rust on the metal of the stator
11. for the next step you can remove the other cover if it makes it easier or it can be left. (to remove the cover use a knife to cut the rubber from the plastic connector to the metal plate. tap the cover to seperate from the metal body then slide the cover from under the connector. do not force!)
12. clean any rust on the inside of the metal cover
13. clean the metal plates attached to the coil (i use emory cloth as well as steel wool)
14. Assembly time, if you took off the plate on the electical connector side slide the plate back into place.
15. install the stator making sure to remove any old grease on the cable end and replacing with new grease
16. On the board with the brushes there are a set of points make sure to hit them with a points file or sandpaper before reinstalling.
17. lightly clean the brushes with emory cloth making sure not to change the shape.
18 install the brushes into their holders making sure the long slant is furthest from the springs. while holding the brushes in place push the board into place and snap the clips into place.
19. Lightly grease the bushing on the end (do not go heavy, too much can leak on the coils and short out.) and reinstall the plate.
20. reinstall the two bolts and if desired wire wheel the metal contact area on the case.
21. reinstall into the vehicle.
please note because the case needs to be grounded its a bit tougher to test off the vehicle.
here's the steps i took to succesfully repair both (pictures will be provided tonight.)
1. remove the two bolts.
2. lightly tap the cover that attachs to the cable and remove
3. on the plate that contains the brushes there are two clips on ether side holding it in place. (best trick i found to remove them is use one screwdriver to push down on the middle of the clip and a second to pull the top of the tab out as it comes up. ) Also note the brush springs do not need to be removed
4. Once both tabs are released the brushes will slide out,make sure to remove completely as one is attached to the outside case DO NOT PULL OFF.
5. after both brushes are out the board can be moved out of the way.
6. pull the stator out
7. on the stator clean the communtator (copper end) using emory cloth to remove the bulk of the discoloration. Dont go nuts cleaning you only want to remove a small amount.
8. this optional but i find it has great results. use a wire wheel to do a final cleaning of the communtator
9. Use a razor/compressed air to clean out the gaps in the communtator
10. use a wire wheel or sand paper to remove any rust on the metal of the stator
11. for the next step you can remove the other cover if it makes it easier or it can be left. (to remove the cover use a knife to cut the rubber from the plastic connector to the metal plate. tap the cover to seperate from the metal body then slide the cover from under the connector. do not force!)
12. clean any rust on the inside of the metal cover
13. clean the metal plates attached to the coil (i use emory cloth as well as steel wool)
14. Assembly time, if you took off the plate on the electical connector side slide the plate back into place.
15. install the stator making sure to remove any old grease on the cable end and replacing with new grease
16. On the board with the brushes there are a set of points make sure to hit them with a points file or sandpaper before reinstalling.
17. lightly clean the brushes with emory cloth making sure not to change the shape.
18 install the brushes into their holders making sure the long slant is furthest from the springs. while holding the brushes in place push the board into place and snap the clips into place.
19. Lightly grease the bushing on the end (do not go heavy, too much can leak on the coils and short out.) and reinstall the plate.
20. reinstall the two bolts and if desired wire wheel the metal contact area on the case.
21. reinstall into the vehicle.
please note because the case needs to be grounded its a bit tougher to test off the vehicle.
(Been visiting this site off and on for years. Most of it prior to the donor days)
