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How to seal 14 bolt pinion support housing and axle shaft flange

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Redfred

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I'll be assembling my rebuilt pre '88 14 bolt soon and starting questioning how good the steel shims would seal between the pinion support housing and axle chunk. Same question about the steel gasket that seals the axle flange to the hub.

Do you guys even smear a thin film of something on these mating surfaces, like permeates ultra black? I know the pinion support seal is critical since it directly affects pinion depth but I wouldn't think a little smear would hurt. As for the axle flange, I thought about cutting out a gasket from a gasket maker sheet. I just absolutely despise fluid leaks.
 
I always have, never any issues with it yet. Very thin though, just enough to make it sticky and seal any imperfections.
 
thin coat of permatex right stuff sealer .

and ALWAYS check the holes for old rtv / sealer build up . if to much used or built up when you go tight on the bolt it can struf threads from the cast parts or blow out the side of the 14ff wheel hubs . seen it before and its not a good thing .

clean them out good and if you can use a tap and compressed air to remove it all.

also the oem bolts are specific length NOT store purchased reg old length stuff.
 
Hand clean both surfaces with a rag with some brake cleaner on it to clean of any grease or debris, helps the stuff stick better. :D
 
On the axle shafts I've always gotten away with using the stock gasket (if it's still there). Never had any leak problems, even if the gasket gets coated in gear oil. Pinion I use some RTV.
 
I use RTV on both. X2 on checking for old RTV in the bolt holes. I use a small metal pick and dig in each one. If I feel anything non-metallic, gotta get it out.
 
Ok cool. Thanks for the confirmation guys. Also good tip on checking the threads. I hadn't thought about that but i can see how it could mean bad news.
 
By the way, where is a good source to get the axle flange gaskets? I've only been able to find them on Quad 4x4s site. I can get them there but needed a few more things that they don't have so I was trying to see who else had them so I could do one order. Unless I searched the sites wrong, I didn't see them at Summit, Jegs, Randy's, or East Coast Gear.

Quad also has the composite type for second gen 14 bolts. Would those fit the early 14 bolt?
 
I used to use rtv to seal my axle flanges but one day thought about how none of the factory axles Ive ever opened up had it so I quit using it. Just make sure both surfaces are clean and damage free and no leaks. I have one that has to be sealed with rtv but it looks like it was beat with a hammer:dunno:.

For the pinion, I never used anything but the steal shims.


Local parts store should be able to get the axle flange gaskets unless you just want to order them. fel-pro number 55350.
 
I've used copper spray gasket sealer with good results on the steel stuff like shims and gaskets. It works good as to putting an even layer on both sides rather than dabbing rtv sealant on them which isn't consistent for thickness around the gaskets. Using the spray means less sealant excess oozing out and in some cases oozing inside, too. Try the copper spray and see how that works for you.
 
big dan said:
I used to use rtv to seal my axle flanges but one day thought about how none of the factory axles Ive ever opened up had it so I quit using it. Just make sure both surfaces are clean and damage free and no leaks. I have one that has to be sealed with rtv but it looks like it was beat with a hammer:dunno:.

For the pinion, I never used anything but the steal shims.


Local parts store should be able to get the axle flange gaskets unless you just want to order them. fel-pro number 55350.
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Those are good points. My hubs had a few dings as well :doah:. I used a file to smooth the raised spots flush with the rest of the surface and it feels and appears flush as best as I can tell. Thanks for the part number.
 
thatK30guy said:
I've used copper spray gasket sealer with good results on the steel stuff like shims and gaskets. It works good as to putting an even layer on both sides rather than dabbing rtv sealant on them which isn't consistent for thickness around the gaskets. Using the spray means less sealant excess oozing out and in some cases oozing inside, too. Try the copper spray and see how that works for you.
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That's a good idea. I think I will give that a shot. I know a lot of old school hot rodders swear by that stuff for steel shim head gaskets. If it seals heads, it sure as heck should do ok on an axle flange.
 
If you have an axle flange that is dinged, it might require RTV to seal it. RTV is reat if used properly, the problem is that it can't have movement between the mating surfaces. If so, it will break the seal. I still use RTV on mine with good results. The factory shouldered bolts also help since they lock the shaft to the hub without any room to rotate and break the seal.

All that said, if you have pristine flat surfaces, gaskets are good and are more resilient than RTV.
 
rebelgregory said:
If you have an axle flange that is dinged, it might require RTV to seal it. RTV is reat if used properly, the problem is that it can't have movement between the mating surfaces. If so, it will break the seal. I still use RTV on mine with good results. The factory shouldered bolts also help since they lock the shaft to the hub without any room to rotate and break the seal.

All that said, if you have pristine flat surfaces, gaskets are good and are more resilient than RTV.
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That reminds me... I saw a video of a guy pulling axle shafts from a DRW 14 bolt and the axle flange had what appeared to be removable cones in each hole that centered them with the threads in the hub. Similar to the pieces that are in the pitman arm on front axles. My SRW doesn't have these. It just has bolts with the built in flange. So I guess with my type, there could theoretically be potential movement between the flange and hub. I'll double check the sealing surfaces of the flange and hub and if it seems flat, I might try the copper coat. If it leaks, I'll regroup and go to the RTV. It's tempting to cut a composite gasket but since I've not heard of anybody doing that with the earlier 14b, I take it that there is a reason behind it.
 
Composite gasket would probably be fine, it's just definitely not the easiest solution. As mentioned, there's several other ways that work just as well.

And as far as those cone washers, I just thank my lucky stars that I don't have any of those on my truck anymore. My 14b ('84 SRW CUCV) has the shoulder bolts only.
 
Redfred said:
It's tempting to cut a composite gasket but since I've not heard of anybody doing that with the earlier 14b, I take it that there is a reason behind it.
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I read once, may have been here, that the bolts that hold the axle in do not see (or aren't suppose to see) any of the rotational force but all they do is hold the axle tight against the hub surface and the friction between the axle and hub is what takes the rotational load. Don't know how true that is but it would be a good reason for the steel gaskets.

That being said I think there is an option for composite gaskets from Oreillys.
 
rampage said:
You must mean the steering arm. The pitman arm connects to the steering box
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Yes, meant steering arm.

I'll just go the OEM route with a little copper spray. I agree with the steel shims taking movement better than composite. I've pretty much tossed that thought out.
 
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