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How to tell if the alternator is charging properly?

There are 2 bolt holes on the passenger side way down low. The upper one should already have a short bolt in it since that hole intersects the fuel pump pushrod and would leak oil without a bolt in it. You might even have a bracket that bolts to the 2 holes i'm refering too. At any rate, use one of those holes to ground the cable, a new cable would actually be better since cables go bad from the inside out. The wire that plugs into the side of the alternator can only go in one way as it has a little plastic piece that is suppose to clip against the alternator and keep it from wiggling out. IIRC though the red wire will be closest to the driverside of the alternator.
 
Appears the locking portion of the connector is broken.

"Meltiness" is likely whatever weird (or just really old) dielectric grease GM used. It gets hard, almost like tar, but still seems to work. I cleaned mine up as best I could, and used new grease on it. De-pinned the connector to get at the blades good. Not worth my time, alternator was dead.

You can search for the thread I recently made on my CS130 alternator upgrade. They put out better at lower RPM than SI-series. I put a current part number for the adapter plug from the alternator like yours to CS.
 
Appears the locking portion of the connector is broken.

"Meltiness" is likely whatever weird (or just really old) dielectric grease GM used. It gets hard, almost like tar, but still seems to work. I cleaned mine up as best I could, and used new grease on it. De-pinned the connector to get at the blades good. Not worth my time, alternator was dead.

You can search for the thread I recently made on my CS130 alternator upgrade. They put out better at lower RPM than SI-series. I put a current part number for the adapter plug from the alternator like yours to CS.

Here is that thread you posted. I am linking it here to help others who might be following along.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=236217&highlight=CS130
 
The wire that plugs into the side of the alternator can only go in one way as it has a little plastic piece that is suppose to clip against the alternator and keep it from wiggling out. IIRC though the red wire will be closest to the driverside of the alternator.

I broke out the wiring diagram for the truck, and it seems that the two wires going in to the plug (for which mine has lost its clips) are:

BROWN- Goes to TERMINAL 1 (in the manual it says "The Brown Field Wire to the generator is used to turn on the generator)
RED- Goes to TERMINAL 2

Hopefully that helps other folks as well.

Now I just need to figure out if I want to do a CS130 swap. I guess I'll see if they have the parts available and go from there.

-Dan
 
It would be helpful to know what the later trucks went with. If there was a TBI setup that didn't use Serpentine, they might have used a CS130. Just can't remember if they ever went that route.

Not sure if I trust it or not, but the 1991 R/V/P service manual states that both CS130 and CS144 were used, and with the standard (non-serpentine) pulley.

They list the GM part numbers if you want them (perhaps to cross reference at a parts store), the 105 amp 130 puts out more at lower RPM than the 100 amp variant.
 
Update! I went to NAPA and got the 94A alt. I tried to get a CS130, but they didn't have one there, and I want to wheel this weekend. The part numbers above worked PERFECTLY. It is also worth noting that NAPA listed the 94A 12si as fitting the 1984 K30 454 with AC.

The other thing I did was bought a new plug for the two pin connector (the one WITH the clip) and soldered that in.

Now I get roughly 12 with the truck off, and roughly 13 with the truck on. And the needle in the dash seems to be roughly accurate as well, which is nice!

Thanks again for all the help!

-Dan
 
Oh, and just for reference, the part number for the two pin connector was:

NAPA VRC148 and it is listed as "Assembly"

Comes in a little blue Echlin box, and the wires were red and white.

Hope this helps someone!

-Dan
 
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