CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

how to tell if your king pin 60 parts are shot

sweetk30

Back to play nice .
 Premium
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Nov 1, 2004
Posts
43,043
Reaction score
25,520
Location
in the back of your brain
your upper king pin bushing should look like the one on the left of the first pic.

second and 3rd bushings are tost . #2 got heated up and 1/3rd melted from someone in the past getting a driverside stud out for the cap/arm when the cross over was installed.

#3 is just WAY beyond worn out as you can see there is chunks missing and HEAVY wear to 1 side.

this truck had death wobble at parking lot speeds of under 10 mph

0609131523b.jpg

0609131524a.jpg

0609131524b.jpg

0609131524c.jpg
 
new spring in the middle

right side spring average worn / sagged spring

left is a DEAD spring from the same DEAD bushing above.

0609131523c.jpg
 
middle is a low mileage used clean king pin . note tiny wear on best side near bottom .

right one is average worn of ? mileage just from a well used axle .

left has some pitting and groves in it and is worn good.

----------------------------------------------

same 3 just spun 180* to show there real bad sides .

----------------------------------------------

close up of severe wear and rust pitting .

---------------------------------------------

#3 would work fine if you don't wana change it .

0609131525a.jpg

0609131525b.jpg

0609131526a.jpg
 
Last edited:
full Yukon reman kits were used along with c&m ampco bushings inplace of the stock white plastic ones. then the crane spring eliminator kit was used also with no shims.

the axle has nice light drag turning the knuckles and also no more severe play .

took it for a test drive and now I could get it up to speed in 3rd gear before other problems showed up in the drive line.

figure this can help someone some day pin point how there parts are and the best way to fix them .

88 crew cab build 125.jpg

Adversion3FinalFlattend.jpg

yukon king pin kit.jpg
 
Great write up! Subscribed for when I need to do this! Which is soon!
Thanks!
 
not close to a write up. but thanks :thumb:

and it helps I have the BIG tools to get them in/out :whistle:

torque wrench 3/4 drive 200-600 ft lb

7/8" allen 3/4 drive .

and a 3/4 ratchet with a 3ft handle

big tool 004.jpg

ima283 7-8 inch allen driver 003.jpg

L872.jpg

L872RM.jpg
 
Last edited:
I've seen pics of you massive Allen wrench. That's a beast for sure!

Ok, the above sentence doesn't sound to good, but o well.
 
Nice informative post, thanks! Those replacement upgrades sure do look like nice parts. Talk about an expensive kingpin job, can you imagine if you were footing a bill for labor too! :)
 
ya it all ads up in labor time for tear down / clean up dirty greese parts / remove frozen spindles from knuckles and also lower king pin caps.

but i got it done . and my buddy who owns the truck is hookin me up with some goodys in trade :D
 
got the drive line angles and shaft problems figured out this last week for the truck I was working on I redid the king pin's in for this write up.

with chopped up / dry rotting / old worn 44" tsl swampers it drives so nice in the front with no death wobble or hint of it . the parts and upgrades I added seem to have helped the front end just fine.

hope this feedback helps someone else in there tracking down of the problems they might be having .
 
update :

had a few trips in town and up the highway 20-30 min each way . we have had the truck up to 60-62 mph ( old whipped motor ) and handles good for what it is and no death wobble .

these few upgrade parts worked great so far . again hope this info helps someone else later on . :thumb:
 
So do you need to periodically check the preload and then disassemble stuff to adjust? I expect any bushings would wear down over time and need to be tightened. And it seems like the tie rod and drag link would have to come off to check preload properly?
 
Seeing this makes me glad I only have to deal with ball joints, but the strength of a 60 would make the hassle worthwhile I imagine.
 
Top Bottom