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how to wire an ignition kill switch

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GMC500

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greetings,

I want to wire an ignition kill switch to help to protect the cheap stock starter from the high load of high compression BBC

my truck is a 1986 GMC K15

which wire shall I use for this purpose ?

thanks a lot,
Ahmed
 
GMC500 said:
greetings,

I want to wire an ignition kill switch to help to protect the cheap stock starter from the high load of high compression BBC

my truck is a 1986 GMC K15

which wire shall I use for this purpose ?

thanks a lot,
Ahmed
Click to expand...


So your wanting to shut the spark off with the motor still spinning in order to leave the cylinders with fuel in them? I dont really understand what thats going to help but to answer your question you need to put a switch inline of the hot wire in the distributor harness.
 
Stomis said:
So your wanting to shut the spark off with the motor still spinning in order to leave the cylinders with fuel in them? I dont really understand what thats going to help but to answer your question you need to put a switch inline of the hot wire in the distributor harness.
Click to expand...

yes I want to let the starter spin the engine freely while ignition is off
then I will switch on the ignition kill switch to start the engine

I am using the gear reduction starter from 1996-1999 7.4 vortec
it can handle the load for some time but eventually it will fail
and I've gone through 3 starters till now

this is a cheaper alternative for a real high torque starter $$$


the question
I know it is the red wire going to the distributor
shall I extend it & wire the kill switch inside the cab ?
or can I access it from the original ignition switch in the steering column ?
 
GMC500 said:
yes I want to let the starter spin the engine freely while ignition is off
then I will switch on the ignition kill switch to start the engine

I am using the gear reduction starter from 1996-1999 7.4 vortec
it can handle the load for some time but eventually it will fail
and I've gone through 3 starters till now

this is a cheaper alternative for a real high torque starter $$$


the question
I know it is the red wire going to the distributor
shall I extend it & wire the kill switch inside the cab ?
or can I access it from the original ignition switch in the steering column ?
Click to expand...

Got news for you, the engine WILL NOT spin freely as it is still fighting the compression and not having the ignition spark will actually be harder on the engine internals.
 
4X4HIGH said:
Got news for you, the engine WILL NOT spin freely as it is still fighting the compression and not having the ignition spark will actually be harder on the engine internals.
Click to expand...

when I disconnect the pink(red) wire going to the bat terminal of HEI
the engine spins much easier than when it is connected especially when it is hot
 
GMC500 said:
when I disconnect the pink(red) wire going to the bat terminal of HEI
the engine spins much easier than when it is connected especially when it is hot
Click to expand...

That tells me your timing is way off. Fix the problem and don't try and apply a bandaid.

What is your intial timing advance set at?
 
4X4HIGH said:
You might want to call it by the correct name, it is an IGNITION retard switch. I already knew that was available. I have personally built and ran a 13.5:1 350 chevy and the bone stock starter had no issues cranking the engine. This posters issue is that he has too much timing and needs to back it off not put a bandaid on it.
Click to expand...



Well im sorry its midnight and i dont always know the correct term for the product, but you caught the idea and would give the original poster somewhere to start his search. If you knew the correct term why not just correct me and post a link? Not everyone builds their engines the same way and as posted in the link, the guy had his timing set to be 36 degrees locked out, so ya. We need more engine specs before we can diagnose whether it is a timing issue or something else.
 
I literally thought you meant a starter retard switch then once you put a link I realized what you meant.

I also did not see the part about being locked out at 36*. There is only one reason you would lock out a distributor with all the advance and that's if you're running a blower engine balls to the wall. If he took the initial timing down to 6-8* advanced his problem would go away.
 
My truck has a push button to turn the engine over

It's only because the swith broke and I don't want to take apart the column :D

BTW: it isn't any easier to turn over with the ignition off
 
howdiy said:
My truck has a push button to turn the engine over

It's only because the swith broke and I don't want to take apart the column :D

BTW: it isn't any easier to turn over with the ignition off
Click to expand...

That was the point I was trying to make early on. Compression in the engine doesn't change (and in his case it isn't compression that's giving him the issue).
 
They're correct ya know. Your starting problem is caused by timing set to far advanced. Set it back even a tiny bit and I'd bet you'll notice a huge improvment in the starting.
 
4X4HIGH said:
That tells me your timing is way off. Fix the problem and don't try and apply a bandaid.

What is your intial timing advance set at?
Click to expand...

my setup:
454 with around 9.6 CR
ported large oval heads + 2.19/1.88 valves
performer RPM intake manifold
Pro systems 950HP carb
long tube headers and 3" duals
MSD 6AL-2 Programmable unit with locked-out HEI
initial advance is 40
max advance @ 3500 RPM = 32
start advance = 15 ( 25 degrees of start retard )

this box works by retarding from the total amount (initial advance)

Ahmed
 
its advanced way too much too start correctly.id back it off at least 10 -15 degrees and see what it does.if it is a heat issue id do a external solenoid or heat shield for the starter to make sure it is running correct.if you got headers the heat going into the starter will cause the solenoid to run slow and wont turn over the engine very fast either.it seems your advance is way too much for what engine you are running either way.
 
chulisohombre said:
its advanced way too much too start correctly.id back it off at least 10 -15 degrees and see what it does.if it is a heat issue id do a external solenoid or heat shield for the starter to make sure it is running correct.if you got headers the heat going into the starter will cause the solenoid to run slow and wont turn over the engine very fast either.it seems your advance is way too much for what engine you are running either way.
Click to expand...

forget about the 40 initial advance
after programming the box the actual initial advance is 15
and actual total advance is 32 which is typical for any high performance BBC

I agree I need a heat sheild for the starter because the last starter I've took apart was cooked from inside because it is very close to the headers
 
9.6:1 compression isn't too terribly much for a BBC in my opinion.

If you are using the run retard in the box and pulling the timing down to 15 degrees for starting you are well within easy starting range...

Just to be clear; you are pulling your initial timing dot down to the 25 degree mark at zero RPM and then ramping back up correct? Keep in mind the top line on your run retard curve is in fact total timing and you pull timing out from there and ramp it back up as RPM increases.

Does the motor turn over slow? Have you put a timing light on it while cranking to see what actual timing is while cranking?

Has the motor ever kicked back on you?

-Phil
 
Philly87 said:
Just to be clear; you are pulling your initial timing dot down to the 25 degree mark at zero RPM and then ramping back up correct? Keep in mind the top line on your run retard curve is in fact total timing and you pull timing out from there and ramp it back up as RPM increases.
Click to expand...
yes

Philly87 said:
Does the motor turn over slow? Have you put a timing light on it while cranking to see what actual timing is while cranking?
Click to expand...
it turns fine when it is cold but it gets harder to turn when the starter gets hot (keep in mind I am using GM small gear-reduction starter)
and no I haven't checked with the timing light when cranking, I've checked it only when running and it is accurate as I've programmed it

Philly87 said:
Has the motor ever kicked back on you?
Click to expand...
yes it will kick back sometimes
last time it hurt the starter and the ring-gear on the flywheel
I've rear that minimizing the start retard might help in preventing the kick-back
I will try it soon
 
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