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How would you build this?

NEK5

NEK5

3/4 ton status
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Oct 25, 2005
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Location
Ipswich MA
Found this pic, and I`m REALLY diggin this flat bed. Gives me the most amount space to use to haul stuff that I may need too, and looks BADASS IMO.

rich3.jpg


14 gauge diamond plate for flooring? 1x1x.120 square tube for the rails and framing? 2x6x? for the rear of the bed/bumber?
 
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Those materials seem like the way to go, or are there better options? This is my first attempt at fab work, so I want to do it right...
 
The materials should work fine, but I am not a fabricator. The only thing I would do different is bobbing the bed a bit, I just don't like the overhang.
 
lectric80 said:
The materials should work fine, but I am not a fabricator. The only thing I would do different is bobbing the bed a bit, I just don't like the overhang.
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Overhang as in how far it sticks out past the rear tires?

I don`t see too much a problem with that, and I would think it wouldn`t be too bad, as it`s going on a blazer frame
 
I would use 2x2x .120 box tubing for the underside supports and locate them above the body mounts in your frame.

Looking at that design I'm thinking you could remove the bedsides, front bulkhead and tailgate from a Chevy box, trim to the length and width you want (or add a taper) then add a tube perimeter to that and accomplish the same thing. It'd be dead easy, look good, be functional and it'd already have the mounting holes and correct supports.

Rene
 
Thats a small yota. Yours is a big chevy. 1x1 will lookand be to small, definetly use 2x2.
 
tRustyK5 said:
I would use 2x2x .120 box tubing for the underside supports and locate them above the body mounts in your frame.

Looking at that design I'm thinking you could remove the bedsides, front bulkhead and tailgate from a Chevy box, trim to the length and width you want (or add a taper) then add a tube perimeter to that and accomplish the same thing. It'd be dead easy, look good, be functional and it'd already have the mounting holes and correct supports.

Rene
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the only thing wrong with that idea is, I`ve already promised my buddy the tail pan (his is rotted pretty bad) since he and his father are helping me with ALOT of this work. I`d also want to lower the whell wells a little. Although, to accomplish this with a Blazer bed may be out of the question anywho, because of the length. Any idea if a standard short bed`s mounts are the same as the blazer bed?

Thanks Rene, I like that idea, would save a ton of money on metal, and work overall:bow::bow:

chiefheaphy said:
Thats a small yota. Yours is a big chevy. 1x1 will lookand be to small, definetly use 2x2.
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Agreed;)
 
No need to save the tailpan, you could use 2"X6" rectangular tube in it's place and have an integrated rear bumper. That way you keep it simple, your buddy still gets the promised tailpan and you don't need to re-engineer stuff. Lowering the wheel wells wouldn't be that hard, you could remove the factory ones and just fab those parts.

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
No need to save the tailpan, you could use 2"X6" rectangular tube in it's place and have an integrated rear bumper. That way you keep it simple, your buddy still gets the promised tailpan and you don't need to re-engineer stuff. Lowering the wheel wells wouldn't be that hard, you could remove the factory ones and just fab those parts.

Rene
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Definitely something to think about...the only thing i`m not too crazy about is the bed floor...the rear section mostly, because of the fact the LMC panels lined up like chit:( I "planned" on having it bedlined...maybe that will be enough to cover it up? Putting a second floor on top not recommended, I would assume? Would help cover the bad panels, add some more weight over the rear of the rig....

Swap out the tail pan for a piece of 2x6, cut the rear frame off right behind that? or extend it all the way back the existing body mounts?

Were you thinking more along the lines of salvaging the whole bed, or just the basic structure of it? Thanks Rene!
 
FYI I'm using 2x3 rect tube for the basic structure of my flatbed, the rest will be 1.75" round tubeing. I will be working on mounting this weekend, so I will be sure to post some pics for you ben
 
muddermilitia said:
FYI I'm using 2x3 rect tube for the basic structure of my flatbed, the rest will be 1.75" round tubeing. I will be working on mounting this weekend, so I will be sure to post some pics for you ben
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Awesome! Thanks dude..
 
NEK5 said:
Definitely something to think about...the only thing i`m not too crazy about is the bed floor...the rear section mostly, because of the fact the LMC panels lined up like chit:( I "planned" on having it bedlined...maybe that will be enough to cover it up? Putting a second floor on top not recommended, I would assume? Would help cover the bad panels, add some more weight over the rear of the rig....

Swap out the tail pan for a piece of 2x6, cut the rear frame off right behind that? or extend it all the way back the existing body mounts?

Were you thinking more along the lines of salvaging the whole bed, or just the basic structure of it? Thanks Rene!
Click to expand...

Well I figured you would likely trim some length off the rear of the floor, and possibly taper the rear a little. This should remove the tailpan area of the floor anyways, maybe more.

If you look at the underside you'll see two or three formed stiffeners running side to side under the floor. I would tie into those with the box tubing perimeter. For the rear most mount you could trim the frame back to set your overall length to where you want it...then build an angle mount off the rear rectangular tubing. It'd be a rigid mount, but I don't see any real problem with that plus it gives you a solid area to mount rear downbars for a cage later.

The part I was thinking you could use was the bed and part of the wheelwells. It mostly depends on what year of K5 bed you have. The 73-77 style has another 18" of bed floor where the 78-91 K5 floor has the footwell and might not have enough bed floor to suit your purpose.

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
Well I figured you would likely trim some length off the rear of the floor, and possibly taper the rear a little. This should remove the tailpan area of the floor anyways, maybe more.

If you look at the underside you'll see two or three formed stiffeners running side to side under the floor. I would tie into those with the box tubing perimeter. For the rear most mount you could trim the frame back to set your overall length to where you want it...then build an angle mount off the rear rectangular tubing. It'd be a rigid mount, but I don't see any real problem with that plus it gives you a solid area to mount rear downbars for a cage later.

The part I was thinking you could use was the bed and part of the wheelwells. It mostly depends on what year of K5 bed you have. The 73-77 style has another 18" of bed floor where the 78-91 K5 floor has the footwell and might not have enough bed floor to suit your purpose.

Rene
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Unfortunately, its a 90 tub, that explains my doubts:(
 
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