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Hrdroboost stalling p/s?

SpeedlabDan

SpeedlabDan

Keepin it trashy never classy
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Good morning ladies n gentlemen, just ran the one ton up to tractor supply and after installing a new pump and lines and route the return through the radiator my power steering is stalling after I brake hard. Really sucks coming in hot blowing steering. I believe the only difference between how it was done before is I run the return through the rad. It also just puked brake fluid all over the header n made me think it was on fire:doah:fluid levels seem fine and no whiners

image.jpg
 
Truckman4life said:
Does it need that other p/s belt added?
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I'm sure that wouldn't hurt. I've been running 1 P/S belt for years. Seems like the second pulley in my configuration is primarily there to hold the A/C belt, which I'm not using. That belt doesn't get much wrap on the P/S pump, so it's not contributing as much as the primary belt. My system works fine with 1 good belt (properly tensioned). I'm sure double belts would be more forgiving if your belt was old & stretched out.

Can't hurt, eh?
 
To the OP, is your belt slipping? I'd think you could clearly hear that.

I'm not sure how you have your system plumbed, but the stock diesel squarebody system prioritizes the brake booster. P/S will cut out any time the system runs out of hydraulic pressure. I've had this happen when the system leaks and runs low on fluid. Since you just recently changed your pump & hoses, I'd start by rebleeding the system. Air bubbles can cause this problem.
 
Since you also replaced the pump, it's worth mentioning that it's possible to buy too small of a hydraulic pump. Hydroboost trucks get different pumps than vacuum boost trucks. The piping arrangement is different, so it seems unlikely. But it's possible.
 
Your cooler is to tall. It is above the reservoir. As plumed air is being introduce into the pump, this will cause cavitation and damage the pump. I recommend using a separate cooler mounted down low.
 
Hydroboost doesn't really like restriction in the return line. Maybe that affects the pressure/flow passed to the gear? You could put the cooler on the return of the gearbox instead of the booster. It should be easy to loop some hose and bypass the cooler to see if restriction is your problem. The radiator oil cooler is probably warming the power steering fluid most of the time.

Also, is that a stock pump outlet or has it been modified (i.e. drilled) for increased flow?
 
Thanks for the responses guys, as far as I know it’s the correct pump ordered for a 1ton with hydro boost. I don’t know much more besides that.
As for the cooler I get that that’s probably warming the fluid maybe I’ll get rid of that setup and possibly cross off the air bound issues as well.
For chits n giggles, could the cooler be bled or have the air removed by pulling the upper line off? Thanks again guys
 
Taking a second look at your photo, the remote reservoir is high enough to be above the cooler. I missed the first look. It's should self bleed. So yours set should work as plumed. Now the question is the cooler/warmer in radiator causing so much restriction it is effecting flow.

Do you still have the old pump ? I always like to compare the outlet fittings, old to new sometimes the rebuilders mix them up
 
Yeah and they are easy to swap between pumps, even if just for troubleshooting.
 
Ok so fallowing up , I put the return back onto the pump bc the radiator probably is heating up the fluid to 185+. There is a posanility the system needed to be bled and it was trapping air. I haven’t done a full shakedown yet but in the driveway it seemed better. I also added another belt to the pump bc I could. 454 won’t feel the extra drag:pimp:
 
Well it’s still happening intermittently. Accumulator is super hot to the touch I suspect maybe the hydro boost is failing. It did it at the end of one run so I two blocked it a couple dozen times while riding the brake (bleed procedure) and it did not do it on the way home. On the fence wether I want to get into changing it out at the moment
 
If you do replace don't bother with rebuilts, if you can afford new. Remans either leak or quite very quickly. What year is that 1ton ?
 
Wes Harden said:
If you do replace don't bother with rebuilts, if you can afford new. Remans either leak or quite very quickly. What year is that 1ton ?
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It’s a ‘90 but unfortunately I already put the booster on and I can’t remember if it’s reman.
 
So properly bled and disconnected from the radiator it’s better but still stalls the steering if the pedal is depressed really hard but not dead locked steering like before. The steering box is pretty old though
 
When I added a hydro boost and ps gear box to my kids 67 f250 4x4, the factory style ps pump would not do both at the same time. I had to up date to a Saginaw pump, Ford needed to use the same pump on some late 60s Lincoln Continentals with hydro boost. Made it easy for me.
I am wondering if the pump is up to the task.
 
The thing is.... the pumps are all the same. The differences are in the outlet fittings, pressure relief springs, reservoir, etc. Your aftermarket pumps are really stock pumps from Saginaw, with the outlets drilled a size or 2 larger, which you can do for yourself. Oh, you can also repaint them yourself.
 
In my case I went from a Thompson to a Saginaw.
I am curious weather a motor home or medium duty truck pump might be better for our needs, extreme crawler.
In @SpeedlabDan case I am thinking weak pump. Any Saginaw pump should work steering gear and hydro boost no sweat
 
Wes Harden said:
In my case I went from a Thompson to a Saginaw.
I am curious weather a motor home or medium duty truck pump might be better for our needs, extreme crawler.
In @SpeedlabDan case I am thinking weak pump. Any Saginaw pump should work steering gear and hydro boost no sweat
Click to expand...
It’s a new pump for a hydro boost setup
 
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