CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Hub Blew out, what to look for when replacing?

jeremywrags

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jun 15, 2010
Posts
150
Reaction score
0
Location
Chino CA
Hi All,

I left work today and my noticed right away that something was not right. The front end was very wobbly and I hear the awful metal on metal grind.

After a quick inspection I notice that the casing on my drivers side Hub is cracked and looks like it is being pushed out from the inside. After removing I realized that the Hub spring had broke.

Now I have a new set of Warn Premium Locking Hubs to put in. I thought while I was at it I might as well replace the front wheel bearings and seals.

Can anyone offer some advice as to what else I might want to check while I have it apart. I am fairly new to 4X4 and am a little worried that something else may have caused this to happen?

Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

As a side, I gather that I have to do the Part time conversion to use the locking Hubs, is it easy or even recommended?

Thanks

J
 
Lets start with some more rig info, year, axle, t-case at least. I would assume it's an NP203 with auto hubs?

A broken hub shouldn't cause a wobbly wheel. So lets get more specific. You jacked it up and the wheel wobbled or felt loose? ie, bearings loosened up?

Just trying to dig up more info so we can help you better...
 
75 Chevy Blazer
NP203 Transfer case - Auto Locking Hubs
Not sure about the Axle but it think it is the stock Axle, 6 lug...

After a little investigation, I think it wasn't wobbly but more hopping? I had it towed home and when I drove it into the Garage I noticed a tire mark in my driveway so I think the wheel in question is dragging, not 100% but certainly not spinning at the same rate as the others.

Also after I took off the broken hub I see that the spring inside was in two pieces so weather that happened and caused my problem or that was the source of the problem I do not know?

Anyway, I bought the Warn Premium hubs and all new bearings and seals for the front so hopefully I will get all that in today and see what happens.

Do you think it was more likely the wheel bearings that caused the issue?

Thanks
 
What did the stock hub look like? Just a metal cap? Your front axle should have full time hubs or (slugs) from the factory with a NP203. If your transfer case has not been converted to part time you will have to run manual locking hubs in the lock position all the time or the truck won't move, or run the T-case in Hi-loc with the hubs unlocked.

If it was/is a bearing issue check the spindle over good for any evidence of a bearing spinning on it. Check the races for heat marks. It should be pretty apparent if you had a bearing lock up on you.

Hard to say without seeing the parts. Tear it apart and post some pics if you arent sure.
 
Yeah, although it looks more like plastic after having broken but yes it is just a cap. Bearings look good although I am replacing anyway just to be thorough. As for the NP203 I assume that I should have only the Following

4HI
4LO
Neutral

When inside my rig I have 5 different positions on the 4X shifter so I am going to assume that I do have the part time kit installed, how can I be sure?

What did the stock hub look like? Just a metal cap? Your front axle should have full time hubs or (slugs) from the factory with a NP203. If your transfer case has not been converted to part time you will have to run manual locking hubs in the lock position all the time or the truck won't move, or run the T-case in Hi-loc with the hubs unlocked.

If it was/is a bearing issue check the spindle over good for any evidence of a bearing spinning on it. Check the races for heat marks. It should be pretty apparent if you had a bearing lock up on you.

Hard to say without seeing the parts. Tear it apart and post some pics if you arent sure.
 
Yeah the 5 different positions are Hi-Loc, Hi, N, Lo, Lo-Loc. Im not sure of any way to tell visually. Remove the front driveshaft and put the shifter in Hi. If the truck moves its part time, If not its still full time.

In the full time (stock) configuration when the case is not in the "loc" position it works like an open diff sending power to the axle with the least resistance. Thats why if you have manual hubs "unlocked" it will send all the power to the front wheels and you won't move. :doah:
 
Top Bottom