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hub nuts loose, need walk through

KansasTwister

KansasTwister

1/2 ton status
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I can move both the inner and out hub nuts by finger without force, need help and a walk through of what to do. Pictures help, ive never done this before.
 
passenger side inner nut is tight by hand, cant move it, but outer is slightly loose. Drivers side inner is loose, but feels staked, and the outer nut is for sure very loose. glad i checked it before i threw the new hubs on.
 
I went through this a while ago http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2744453#post2744453

The proper procedure for wheel bearing adjustment is as follows....

A) Torque inner adjusting nut to 50 ft/lbs while rotating the hub/rotor assembly

B) Back off adjusting nut until it is loose

C) While rotating the hub/rotor assembly tighten the adjusting nut to 35 ft/lbs (for automatic locking hubs) or 50 ft/lbs (for manual locking hubs)

D) Back off adjusting nut 1/4 to 3/8 turn (for automatic locking hubs) or 1/6 to 1/4 turn (for manual locking hubs)

E) Now install locking ring (making sure the pin in the adjusting nut enters one of the holes in the locking ring)

F) Install the outer lock nut and torque to a minimum of 160 ft/lbs

This is straight from a Chiltons repair manual.
Click to expand...
colbystephens said:
OK, so there are 2 axle nuts separated by a washer. In the picture below you see that I am holding the outer axle nut. I'm calling it an axle nut, but it's probably a hub nut or some other name. Anyway, here it is.

IMG_9908.jpg


You can see inside the hub that there is a ring with many little holes in it. That's a washer sort of thing that has a tab that slides into the spindle surface, and one of those lucky holes will fit over the nub on the interior axle nut.

Once you remove the 2 nuts and the washer, the cone bearing thingy can come out. I usually remove it by pulling the rotor outwards a ways (of course, you have to remove the caliper to do this.) Here's a pic, I'm holding the bearing dealio in a paper towel.

IMG_9910.jpg


The purpose of the inner nut is to set the bearing in place and hold it there. The washer acts as a safety, not allowing the nut to move in or out once it's set, and the outter nut holds that washer in place as a lock nut.

To go through the process that you did for the outer nut doesn't really do anything, and the torque you set it to is incorrect.



It's pretty important that you get back in there and torque that sucker down to the right amount.

Also, you'll end up using that socket more than once! It's a good thing to keep with you on the trail, because if you break an axle shaft you'll need it! Also, if you keep that 1/2 ton front end, you'll likely change ball joints in the future... so you'll need it!
Click to expand...
 
jms said:
I've always used the four-prong socket pictured on the left... and the 160ft-lbs number for the outer sounds too high...
Click to expand...

My Chilton book says the same thing....160 ft lbs (for the LOCKNUT) not the adjusting nut or wheel hub nut.

It further says, "This locknut ensures that the locking ring and adjusting nut don't move. Over-tightening the locknut has no effect on the bearing adjustment."
 
Yep thoose are the right numbers.

I got a question ive seen some "upgrade" hub nuts think from stage 8 are there any for the 10 bolt??
 
Be careful with the lock ring I bet 2 out of 10 that I have done the raised pin on the lock ring is either not there or almost broken off.

You can fix it though and a new lock ring is not to much money
 
blazinzuk said:
Be careful with the lock ring I bet 2 out of 10 that I have done the raised pin on the lock ring is either not there or almost broken off.

You can fix it though and a new lock ring is not to much money
Click to expand...

Good point. I think I'll get some of those new when I do the brakes too. They sound like they are very similar with one another......
 
y5mgisi said:
I like this thread.
Click to expand...

That good or bad? lol.




So, i need to torque it down to 50lb on the inner nut, then back it off a quarter turn or so, then retighten to 35 foot lbs (if autohub) or back to 50 foot lbs (if manual hubs). Why is there such a difference?

Then, i need to put the retaining ring back on making sure its aligned in the hole.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...word=spindle!s!axle+washer&pt=01234&ppt=C0362

Those look like the retainers right? I might pick up a pair just in case they are bad. or is it the inner nut that has the pin on it that you mentioned blazinuk?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOR1/615120.oap?keyword=spindle+nut+kit&pt=03314&ppt=C0337

and looks to be the outer.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...pindle!s!axle+lock+nut+kit&pt=03314&ppt=C0337

IMG00287-20110215-1644.jpg


IMG00288-20110215-1645.jpg
 
bot0611 said:
Uh uh how much? and what would be the diferenc between then and the stock ones.
Click to expand...

They use a dedicated snap ring and a complete re-design of the entire assembly (keeping the same preload on the wheel bearings), no hoping that the outside nut won't come loose. It won't ever happen with the stage 8 spindle nuts :pimp:

They are $59/side
 
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