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Hubs and Lockers Question

andyblack

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Still don't have a locker in the front axle, so can someone answer this question: If you have a locker in the front axle and you can't make a sharp turn, can you unlock the hub on the inside of the turn and make the turn sharper because the unlocked hub won't let that wheel turn, or will the wheel with the unlocked hub turn anyway because of the locker?
 
Once the hub is unlocked, that wheel is seperated from the axle shaft and hence has no connection to the locker.

Unlocking a hub to turn, however, sounds much better in theory than it is in the real world. Do you really want to unlock a hub every time you have to turn in 4WD? I've known people that said they would unlock one hub to turn, they do it about 5 times and then quit.

If you want a locker in the front, either deal with having to make multi-point turns, get hydro assist or shift the t-case into 2WD. My .02
 
I am detroit locked front and rear and as long as i'm offroad in the dirt i have no problems making any turns, however if you try to drive on a hard surface being locked front and rear it can't be done without a million point turn and a good possibilty of grenading something in the drivetrain.
 
Unlocking the hub for turning works if you have to drive somewhere in 4x4 high in the snow but even then, I can get away w/ 2wd. Other than that, you won't get out to unlock your hubs while wheeling. btdt
 
here's a stupid question, but i'm askin it here cuz it has to do with hubs. I got a 86 K5 with manual hubs, and spent most of the winter drivin around with them locked, and just shifted into 4wd when needed. Does that cause any harm?
 
No, that won't harm anything. Lots of late model vehicles with unit bearings have the front axle shafts spinning all the time with only a little extra wear. Stop hijacking my thread!:mad:

Just kidding! Someone asked that same question a couple of weeks ago in this forum and lots of guys replied that they kept their hubs locked and just shifted their transfer cases most of, if not all of the time. They said they don't have any problems. I don't know why the manufacturers say to never run them locked on the street.
 
I've been thinking about this myself. After getting stuck today I've been looking at lockers and mini spools for my d44. I found a mini spool on ebay for it.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dana-44-30-Spline-Mini-Spool-Jeep-Chevy-Ford-4x4_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a317Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem390044989210QQitemZ390044989210QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories It replaces the spider gears with blocks. I've got a big bearing d44 with external hubs and 35" tires. Most, but not all of my wheeling will be mud. How do ya'll think the d44 will hold up?
 
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I asked that same thing on here the other day and everyone said they thought I'd start breaking shafts and ring and pinions and stuff with a spool in my 10 bolt front. They seemed to think a locker that could ratchet a little would be a lot better. Your 44 could be a little stronger though.
 
Go with a ratchet locker like a lock right. I'm glad I did. I have ZERO problems turning my truck offroad with the garbage push pull steering.
 
I asked that same thing on here the other day and everyone said they thought I'd start breaking shafts and ring and pinions and stuff with a spool in my 10 bolt front. They seemed to think a locker that could ratchet a little would be a lot better. Your 44 could be a little stronger though.

For the most part a 10 bolt and a Dana 44 are equal in strength.
 
I've always heard that GM pretty much copied the Dana 44 and called it a 10 bolt because they felt they could make it cheaper than they could buy the 44 from Dana.
 

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