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Hummer rim price<---is this right......

88K5Jimmy

88K5Jimmy

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Got this off USA6x6:
Hummer rim Stock, complete, used, no paint, 8 bolt beadlock $50

Is that per wheel and are the beadlocks fully functional?
Do these have a safety lip in them or will the beadlock take care of that?
If not what else do these wheels need to be beadlock ready?


hummer_rim_stock_8bolt.jpg


Thanks
 
<font color="green"> Looks like they're missing the beadlocks, unless they aren't pictured. The part that bolts on the outside is just part of the rim, the beadlocks on the Hummer wheels go inside the rim. </font color>
 
I hope you have dually running gear caus thats an 8" wide rim with 7" backspacing. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gifIf your gonna go with these save up the extra doe for the $185 deal with custom backspacing and run flat ( or $160 without run flat). A bunch of people on this board has gone that route, including myself. Other than that e-mail daniel at usa 6x6 (theres a link at the bottom of every page) and ask him. He seems to respond pretty quickly. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
The run flat-what goes inside-only locks the inner bead. The outer lock is the same as any other bead lock. (If I'm wrong correct me.)
 
I always thought the way they bead lockd was with either a magnesium or rubber ring the went between the insides of both beads so it locked both inside and outside to the beads.
I think the pice on the bare rims doesn't include the O-ring needed to create the seal between the two halves.
 
The wheel is a two piece. You put the bead lock ring inside the tire and then put both wheel halves on. This sandwiches the beads of the tire between the wheel and inner beadlock. Umm, heres a pic of mine to show you what I mean....

322.jpg


The white part is the beadlock.
 
<font color="green"> The run flat is attached to the beadlock. It is one peice, if you look a the pics that Jason put up, there is not runflat attached to the beadlock. If you run them without the beadlock/runflat piece then basically all you have is a 2 piece rim.</font color>
 
So if you wanted to run the hummer wheels just for the offset, could you just buy the wheels I pictured above?

Thanks
 
You could, but the wheel will hit your tierods and steering arm... Hence the reason for different backspacings.
 
The plan would be to run them on a dually D60. Just have to figure out what rear axle to run to get the same track width.
 
Like Emmit said, you could but it will hit. I'm looking into running them in stock form on a Jeep with a GM Dana 60. I found a place that makes steering arms to do just that.
 
You would still hit the tierod and steering arm with stock hummer wheels on a dually D60?
 
Hey wayne, check with Pat Gremillion of Priemier Power welder. He runs them on a stock 60 with no mods(as his daughter? claimed to me in an e-mail!)... I had e-mailed them to see what they did to run them and they said no spacers or anything....
 
Sorry Emmit, I ment on a standard 60. Here is the link to the place I mentioned. I just got off the phone with them, they have great customer service too, and the arms on there site have changed. They are now being made out of 1 1/2" thick aircraft quality billit aluminum. They are actually stronger then the 1" steel. Also available is a banana shaped arm to mount the ram for hydro assist behind the axle. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

http://www.jeepxtremes.com/
 
OK, so the front bead comes off to access the runflat/beadlock screws? Glad I asked &amp; thanks for the pic. Once again, correct me if I am wrong. Thanks guys.
 
</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
Hey wayne, check with Pat Gremillion of Priemier Power welder. He runs them on a stock 60 with no mods(as his daughter? claimed to me in an e-mail!)... I had e-mailed them to see what they did to run them and they said no spacers or anything....




[/ QUOTE ]

Yeah he runs them with no mods On a EARLY BRONCO. It's a 16.5 wheel and clears the brakes. He's running a FULL width axle under a truck that is almost 10 inches narrower then a K5. So the 7 inch off set pulls the wheels back into the fenders and get's it close to stock track width. You try the same thing with a K5 and the wheels and tires will be inboard so far they will scrub the springs with about half the turning.
Here is a picture of a Buddy of BigJBears and mine from our club and his bronco on full width axles and hummer rims.
Toby_on_side_Guardrail_3_T.JPG
 
But what I was getting at is he is running them on a 60 with no mods. They are not hitting the steering arms or tie rods.
 
</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
The plan would be to run them on a dually D60. Just have to figure out what rear axle to run to get the same track width

[/ QUOTE ]

My plan is the same as yours. Run a DUALLY front Dana 60 axle (77 or 78" WMS to WMS). The extra offset of the HMMV rims will make up for the large spacer on the dually axle. You should have no problems or interference doing it this way.

For the rear axle you will want a Dually Dana 70 Or later Dually Corp 14 FF that measures 73" WMS to WMS. Then add 2-1/2" spacers on each side to get it even with the front width. That is if you plan on using it as a single rear wheel axle.
 
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