CK5
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humvee wheels!
- Thread starter johnnz28
- Start date
This has been covered over & over.
The H-1's have 7.25 inch backspacing.
You need 3" or so of wheel spacers, or a wider set of axles. Think dually.
The H-1's have 7.25 inch backspacing.
You need 3" or so of wheel spacers, or a wider set of axles. Think dually.
http://www.trailworthyfab.com/Custom-Hummer-Wheels/
http://www.trailworthyfab.com/Custom-Hummer-Wheels-w-Tire-Combos/
or 3" spacers . but the 3/4 ton front wont like this heavy offset on the bearings over time.
http://www.trailworthyfab.com/Custom-Hummer-Wheels-w-Tire-Combos/
or 3" spacers . but the 3/4 ton front wont like this heavy offset on the bearings over time.
So you're telling me the bearings are magical and can detect the difference between 3" spacers and 3" of recentering? I must be misunderstanding you
Yes, the leverage is different depending on where the WMS is. The 3" spacer puts the point of leverage out by the locking hubs where a recentered wheel puts it on the stock location.
It's similar to holding a 5lb weight by your chest as compared to holding it with your arm straight out.
It's similar to holding a 5lb weight by your chest as compared to holding it with your arm straight out.
No, we are concerned with leverage on the wheel bearings and balljoints. This is based on where the tires are relative to those components. The tire is in the same place for spacers or re-centering. The leverage is changing on the wheel studs to be more of a bending force and less shear, but the force on the bearings and ball joints is the same. The whole wheel/hub/spacer/whatever assembly acts as one solid piece even if the shape of the piece changes.
The reason spacers get a bad rap is because you are normally moving the tire out 3" further. In the case of H1's you're just compensating for the offset.
Is a dually front weak because the WMS is further out?
The reason spacers get a bad rap is because you are normally moving the tire out 3" further. In the case of H1's you're just compensating for the offset.
Is a dually front weak because the WMS is further out?
ya know what figure it out your self. unless i read your post wrong and your not coming off as a know it all.
i have been threw the whole 1/2 ton 3/4 ton 1 ton axle bearing stuff my self in my trucks.
if backspace and leverage dont have any extra wear on front end parts then tell me why trucks with unit bearing fronts eat wheel bearing units out faster with incorrect offset rims sticking the tires out farther. this = more leverage.
do what ya want and let us know what happens.
i have been threw the whole 1/2 ton 3/4 ton 1 ton axle bearing stuff my self in my trucks.
if backspace and leverage dont have any extra wear on front end parts then tell me why trucks with unit bearing fronts eat wheel bearing units out faster with incorrect offset rims sticking the tires out farther. this = more leverage.
do what ya want and let us know what happens.
as he said before and you just stated normally spacers put the wheel and tire out farther. in this instance its just a backspace compensation. the tire center stays in the same spot. If you take a SRW front axle and adapt it with DRW fronts the bearings are the same and stay in the same spot, but its ok now????? No its the exact same thing. I'm not ganging up here I'm adding my .02 to a common misconception.ya know what figure it out your self. unless i read your post wrong and your not coming off as a know it all.
i have been threw the whole 1/2 ton 3/4 ton 1 ton axle bearing stuff my self in my trucks.
if backspace and leverage dont have any extra wear on front end parts then tell me why trucks with unit bearing fronts eat wheel bearing units out faster with incorrect offset rims sticking the tires out farther. this = more leverage.
do what ya want and let us know what happens.
my biggest point is thats a lot on a dana 44 or 10 bolt front axle. even if still in center of normal load area with spacers.
and dont forget thay say there is more chance of bending non recentered h1 rims.
if i come across wrong or read it wrong so be it. i am out.
and dont forget thay say there is more chance of bending non recentered h1 rims.
if i come across wrong or read it wrong so be it. i am out.
Your right, 37's are a lot for a 10bolt or d44. and you need rock rings and a 3/8's bar ring on the inner lip at the least for heavy wheeling with H1's. Recentered is still the way to go since its cheaper than spacers. I didnt mean to come of rude or anything either, Sorry for any offense
the spacer /adaptor thing is just a sore spot with me sorry
the spacer /adaptor thing is just a sore spot with me sorry
Sorry, I think we got sidetracked a little. I think we all assumed that you meant H1 wheels, but when you say 16.5, 37", you might mean tires or you might mean both. The wheels have the same bolt pattern as Chevy 8-lug for 3/4-ton and 1-ton trucks, just LOTS more backspacing, as stated above. If you're only after the tires, you can use any 16.5" wheel with the 8-lug pattern. If you don't care about the double-bead lock, you might as well avoid the weight of the H1 wheel and insert. As stated, this is a super heavy wheel/tire combo and it's pushing the strength limits of a D44 or 10B front end.
Sorry to everybody if I was being a jerk.
Sorry to everybody if I was being a jerk.
dvinesquirrel
1/2 ton status
These wheels do weight a lot. i currently have a set on my blazer, got them from trail worthy fab re-centered and had rock rings added. So much weight in fact i am thinking about changing out to regular rims. when i had the irok 41s on steelies the truck had better acceration that these 37" anchors.
so im thinking for what i want preformance wise out of my new truck is more along the lines of some mild weekend off roading and towing dutys. so if i run the newer 37" radial military tire on a set of 16.5 x 9.75 crager's p/n 3426980SL from summit racing all be good to go? or just sticking with my 16" stock chevy rims that are on the truck, and going with a uesd set of tires? in witch i thaink going with the MT tire we'll pay it's self off in the long run being that u can get them for so cheap! and in most cases there in much better shape then a set of uesd civilan tires and by the way thanks everyone for the great feedback on my problem
83 k20 suburban, 6" lift, 454, th400
83 k20 suburban, 6" lift, 454, th400
Only thing that makes me curious is the backspacing. 4.75" is going to put those sidewalls in towards the drag link a lot. I'd watch for clearance there. Might have to adjust your steering stops on the righthand turn to keep the tire off the forward drag link end.
yah if i go with the crager rims i would have to run a 1/2" spacer witch should put me right at stock back spacing. plus i can get all 4 spacers for around 50 bucks!
83 k20 suburban 6" lift, 454, th400
88 iroc 450+ hp 350, built 700r4
83 k20 suburban 6" lift, 454, th400
88 iroc 450+ hp 350, built 700r4
whats stock backspace. I see guys saying they run 35x12.5's on stock 8"wheels alot. I always thought that they would rub something myself. But I havent heard anyone say it yet. if the stock is 4" than its dead center of the tire. these rims would actualy be 1/8" farther inboard from center giving you slightly more clearance. Should be fine I would think. I'm not sure on factory backspace though
. But I havent heard anyone say it yet. if the stock is 4" than its dead center of the tire. these rims would actualy be 1/8" farther inboard from center giving you slightly more clearance. Should be fine I would think. I'm not sure on factory backspace though
Factory half ton 15x8's had 4" of backspacing. The factory 8 lug 16's and 16.5's were somewhere in the 4.25-4.5" range.
4.75" would push the tire further in towards the suspension and drag link. Granted it would be a wider rim but I'd be wary of rubbing the drag link. Learned that the hard way myself.
4.75" would push the tire further in towards the suspension and drag link. Granted it would be a wider rim but I'd be wary of rubbing the drag link. Learned that the hard way myself.
Your right, 37's are a lot for a 10bolt or d44. and you need rock rings and a 3/8's bar ring on the inner lip at the least for heavy wheeling with H1's. Recentered is still the way to go since its cheaper than spacers. I didnt mean to come of rude or anything either, Sorry for any offense
Why would you do that?
Martin
