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hydraboost and disk swap questions

Smokinthehippies

Smokinthehippies

3/4 ton status
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so i have a 14 bolt in my k5, and i'm to the point where i either need to completly rebuild my drums, but now i'm thinking i should just swap to disks.

i've searched and found the threads and info on how its done. just want to get some real life feed back from people whove done it.

how hard is it of a process? how long in a driveway type swap.
how much do you have wrapped into it total between swap/calipers/lines/fittings and all the misc crap that pops up.
anyone using a line loc for a parking brake and if so how does it work. would you do it again.

same basic concept for people whove gone from vaccum to hydraboost setups as well. thinking bout and just curious how hard it is to do and what all costs are involved. think these will be my next projects coming up soon depending on advice.

thanks in advance guys.
 
The rear disc conversion is simple and easy. I have a brand new set of rotors that I picked up from a member here who thought they were D60 rotors (turned out to be 3/4 ton rotors) that i'm willing to let go cheaper than you can buy them new from the store. Does your 14ff have the large 13" drums currently? The reason I ask is because you will need new wheel studs if it has the smaller 11" drums.
 
im into mine about $180 total. i still need an adjustable proportioning valve to keep the rears from locking up so easy. but they are only $50. that price includes upgrading to a 3/4 ton master cylinder from the same year truck as mine.
do a search on for the best 4/w disc master. i know there is a huge thread on that. maybe sombody else knows it.

just resting youre foot on the brake pedal in my 5700lb k5 is all the pressure you need for regular stops.

hydroboost also is a great upgrade. i would get a hydro/pedals from a donor. the pedals are different. the brake rod pin is in a different location than on a vacuum brake setup. some people just redrill them.

i dont have hydroboost in the k5 (yet) but i do in the crew cab. its the same as the k5. even with the drum brakes. its 6400lbs with 38s. you dont really have to push on it.

i have been driving my wife's car alot lately, and its amazing how hard you have to push on the pedal in a brand new car. it scares the wife because my judgment is all off.
 
4X4HIGH said:
The rear disc conversion is simple and easy. I have a brand new set of rotors that I picked up from a member here who thought they were D60 rotors (turned out to be 3/4 ton rotors) that i'm willing to let go cheaper than you can buy them new from the store. Does your 14ff have the large 13" drums currently? The reason I ask is because you will need new wheel studs if it has the smaller 11" drums.
Click to expand...

Yeah I'm still figuring out how if I want to do this but if I do I'll def take those rotors off ya. Have you done this swap? Maybe if I go thru with it I can coax you down to Sunnyvale for some help?
 
1BEATK5 said:
im into mine about $180 total. i still need an adjustable proportioning valve to keep the rears from locking up so easy. but they are only $50. that price includes upgrading to a 3/4 ton master cylinder from the same year truck as mine.
do a search on for the best 4/w disc master. i know there is a huge thread on that. maybe sombody else knows it.

just resting youre foot on the brake pedal in my 5700lb k5 is all the pressure you need for regular stops.

hydroboost also is a great upgrade. i would get a hydro/pedals from a donor. the pedals are different. the brake rod pin is in a different location than on a vacuum brake setup. some people just redrill them.

i dont have hydroboost in the k5 (yet) but i do in the crew cab. its the same as the k5. even with the drum brakes. its 6400lbs with 38s. you dont really have to push on it.

i have been driving my wife's car alot lately, and its amazing how hard you have to push on the pedal in a brand new car. it scares the wife because my judgment is all off.
Click to expand...

How long did the swaps take you both the discs and the hydroboost?
And are those prices using junk yard parts are new/parts store. Do you have any parking brake setup after disc swap? If so how did that work out?
 
I'm going to use a stainless ball valve in my rear line for a parking brake, with a reach rod coming up through the floor.
 
Smokinthehippies said:
Yeah I'm still figuring out how if I want to do this but if I do I'll def take those rotors off ya. Have you done this swap? Maybe if I go thru with it I can coax you down to Sunnyvale for some help?
Click to expand...

Yes i've done the rear disc swap years ago and couldn't be happier. You should come to Fremont and I could give you a hand here as the rotors will need to be machined AFTER they are mounted to the hubs and I have a brake lathe here in my garage to do it along with every other tool that could ever possibly be needed.
 
4X4HIGH said:
Yes i've done the rear disc swap years ago and couldn't be happier. You should come to Fremont and I could give you a hand here as the rotors will need to be machined AFTER they are mounted to the hubs and I have a brake lathe here in my garage to do it along with every other tool that could ever possibly be needed.
Click to expand...


im just curious as to why you have to machine them. Is this with all the swaps that you use 3/4 ton rotors?
 
4X4HIGH said:
Yes i've done the rear disc swap years ago and couldn't be happier. You should come to Fremont and I could give you a hand here as the rotors will need to be machined AFTER they are mounted to the hubs and I have a brake lathe here in my garage to do it along with every other tool that could ever possibly be needed.
Click to expand...


Steve,

If you haven't met Scott, he's as helpful and knowledgeable in person as he is on here. Great guy. He is obviously the guy you want helping you on this project. I've met him a couple times, just haven't gotten to wrench with him yet.

Good luck!
 
i can tell. i've talked to him about a few different things since i joined on here but timing never really worked out to meet up.
i'm pretty sure i'm going to go thru with the swap soon since i had a dream where i scored a hydraboost setup at a junkyard. i guess thats my mind saying git it done.
 
Smokinthehippies said:
i can tell. i've talked to him about a few different things since i joined on here but timing never really worked out to meet up.
i'm pretty sure i'm going to go thru with the swap soon since i had a dream where i scored a hydraboost setup at a junkyard. i guess thats my mind saying git it done.
Click to expand...


Glad i'm not the only one dreaming about this stuff! I had a dream about an HVLP spray rig to repaint the burb last night.....:dunno::waytogo:
 
Smokinthehippies said:
How long did the swaps take you both the discs and the hydroboost?
And are those prices using junk yard parts are new/parts store. Do you have any parking brake setup after disc swap? If so how did that work out?
Click to expand...


i do this for a living so it didnt take me but a few hours each.

all new parts.
brackets $65 shipped
rotors $44
hoses $16
calipers $28
master cyl. $28
pads $free from another project
i did a 60 swap at the same time and used my front calipers for cores

i dont have a park brake yet. im thinking about using a line lock or mico lock in the future since im swapping to a manual trans
 
i know that there is a difference between the two and to make sure when i go hydro to make sure i snag the peddle.

thanks for making sure.
 
We have a ball valve on the brakes of our scissor lift truck ('83 Sierra C7 I believe, neat old truck with an Allison and Detroit) and our 2 ton dump. Been that way since we bought them about 20 years ago. Basically the same thing as putting a brick on a brake pedal when you get out of the truck. It is what I will do when my trail gets rear discs.

AKDOT approves of this as these are commercial vehicles.
 
so what do you do, just push on the brake pedal, and then twist the valve before you take your foot off?
 
Smokinthehippies said:
so what do you do, just push on the brake pedal, and then twist the valve before you take your foot off?
Click to expand...

Yup. There's a lever mounted to the dash that closes the valve at the master cylinder.

A few braindead roofers have put it on without pressing the pedal and we gave them a lot of **** for it. We are required (would do it anyways) to chalk the tires too, which is the job of the spotter (hard to back up a 60' truck in a residential area without a spotter) anyway, but the spotter knows immediately when the truck pushes against the tire chalks.

I'm gonna do separate ones for the front and rear for front digs and redundancy and such.
 
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