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Hydraulic clutch question

COCHEV

COCHEV

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jul 9, 2002
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Location
Washougal WA
What's going on if the clutch engages right off the floor boards? Fluid is at the right level and I don't see any leaks...:dunno:
 
prob needs a clutch. thats how the crew cab is. if its not pushed into the rubber floor, it wont shift to 1st ( not low) up or down without grinding.
does the pedal "feel" good?

btw- since you have some money, you should get that crew cab for $1500.
 
I'm fearing it is clutch time. the pedal feels fine. just hard to shift (even for a 465) and it releases early... much unlike the sweet, brand new clutch you just got...:D

I hope to some day have a crew cab in the stable...
 
you have somthin else other than the white truck? that k5 i saw parked a little further down the road?
 
Before pulling the clutch, be sure to check the pushrod between the pedal and the master cylinder.

If its worn, or has become misadjusted, on those that have adjustments, you might not be pushing the master cylinder as far as you used to.

If yours has the external slave cylinder, a few of those had adjustments also.

Plus, a very small air bubble would decrease the amount of throw the slave cylinder produces per master cylinder stroke.

If you have a lot of miles, the clutch system is still a good bet, but I would eliminate as much other stuff as I could.

Nothing worse than getting everything bolted up new and finding you have the same problem.
 
Fordum said:
Before pulling the clutch, be sure to check the pushrod between the pedal and the master cylinder.

If its worn, or has become misadjusted, on those that have adjustments, you might not be pushing the master cylinder as far as you used to.

If yours has the external slave cylinder, a few of those had adjustments also.

Plus, a very small air bubble would decrease the amount of throw the slave cylinder produces per master cylinder stroke.

If you have a lot of miles, the clutch system is still a good bet, but I would eliminate as much other stuff as I could.

Nothing worse than getting everything bolted up new and finding you have the same problem.
Click to expand...

I have looked at the pushrod, but as far as I can see it seems fine. no flexing at the firewall or anything like that. I also have the external slave. I was under the impression that the Hydraulic clutch set up was non-adjustable...is this not the case?
 
COCHEV said:
I have looked at the pushrod, but as far as I can see it seems fine. no flexing at the firewall or anything like that. I also have the external slave. I was under the impression that the Hydraulic clutch set up was non-adjustable...is this not the case?
Click to expand...

Having similar symptoms with the NV4500 in my crewcab currently.

This may sound stupid, but for ****s and giggles, try driving it and inbetween shifts pull the clutch pedal away from the floor with your toe and make sure its coming all the way back up. Shouldn't make a bit of difference but try it. It's a free test.
 
COCHEV said:
I have looked at the pushrod, but as far as I can see it seems fine. no flexing at the firewall or anything like that. I also have the external slave. I was under the impression that the Hydraulic clutch set up was non-adjustable...is this not the case?
Click to expand...
Not sure about the adjustment. I am not intimate familar with your setup, but over the years I have run into some that were adjustable.
I remember one that had an adjustment on the pushrod, and heard about one that the cylinder adjusted on the bell housing.

Ford had a couple of years where they had all kinds of problems with adjustable pedal pushrods.

Since its been a long time since I saw one like yours, I was mostly just giving things to check before having to pull everything.

If there are no adjustments, the last suggestion I have is air. If the fluid has not run low, odds are its not air, but you might try bleeding it just in case.

The idea is to make darn sure to eliminate all other possibilities before pulling the tranny.

I think this is the post sweetk30 was talking about.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200196&highlight=hydro
 
cybrfire said:
Having similar symptoms with the NV4500 in my crewcab currently.

This may sound stupid, but for ****s and giggles, try driving it and inbetween shifts pull the clutch pedal away from the floor with your toe and make sure its coming all the way back up. Shouldn't make a bit of difference but try it. It's a free test.
Click to expand...

I have the same problem with my NV4500. I know they are bad about the pivot ball wearing out and not letting the fork move smoothly. Just dont feel like tearing my truck apart to check it.
 
bronc3buster842001 said:
I have the same problem with my NV4500. I know they are bad about the pivot ball wearing out and not letting the fork move smoothly. Just dont feel like tearing my truck apart to check it.
Click to expand...


I am hoping its not the fork or anything else that requires drivetrain component removal.:doah:

Seems the bottom of the pedal travel should be the full stroke no matter where the pedal starts the forward motion but right now mine sure doesn't seem that way.
 
Usally when the pivot ball wears out, the fork wont let the TO bearing move freely like it should. So if the TO bearing ain't going back all the way like it is supposed would cause excessive free play in the pedal. Thats my idea on what is wrong.
 
so I wanted to fallow up on this cause i hate searching on dead end threads where the problem was never solved and/or just never posted. so...

after a year of double clutching and shoving the pig into gear i was getting pretty sick of the deal and about ready to do the clutch on this bad boy. the fluid level was always good, no leaks, nothing, blead it 5 ways to sunday ( have a mityvac too)

so on a whim, friday night i just went a bought a new MC and threw it in, blead it out and just like that, the clutch acts like it should! one thing i noticed right off the bat was that my clutch pedal was now a good bit higher than the brake, and i have much for travel in the slave as well.

so i think some how, air was still getting in somewhere. still had no leaks or anything. strange. everything i'd read said they leak when they go bad. have no idea. all i know is its working properly now. i don't like just throwing parts at problems, but for 35 bucks, i sure wish i had a long time ago :doah:
 
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