What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Hydraulic lifter adjust

scottishdave

scottishdave

no-ton status :(
 Premium
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Apr 12, 2009
Posts
2,185
Reaction score
28
Location
North Carolina
Just wanted to check my thinking with some of the experts around here. Only done this once, All the diesel Engines that i built back in the day had non-hydro lifters and required actual valve lash adjusting.



So I Spin the pushrods between my fingers while I also tighten the Rocker nut. Once i can bairly spin the pushrod I then turn the nut 1/2 - 3/4 turn. Dont worry I didnt forget #1 TDC, etc...etc...Just curious about the actual adjusting.

Sound correct?
 
Now should the slight drag when i am spinning the pushrods be similar to the drag when using a feeler gauge for valve lash or Should i bairly be able to spin them? Or does it matter much since they kind of adjust themselfs after a few minutes of running?
 
scottishdave said:
Now should the slight drag when i am spinning the pushrods be similar to the drag when using a feeler gauge for valve lash or Should i bairly be able to spin them? Or does it matter much since they kind of adjust themselfs after a few minutes of running?
Click to expand...

I've heard multiple renditions of this but I think if you are tightening them until its harder to spin that may be to tight.

I do it a different way. You will feel up and down play on a loose pushrod. So tighten until all the up and down play is gone then tighten 3/4 turn more. Now spin with your fingers you will see it's reletively easy to still spin it. So IMO if your tightening until you feel drag when your spinning it, then its to tight.
 
It's alot quicker to adjust with the engine running, loosen rocker until loud clicking, slowly tighten until clicking goes away then an additional 1/2 turn. If you do one side at a time and turn the idle down slightly it will not make any mess.
 
4X4HIGH said:
It's alot quicker to adjust with the engine running, loosen rocker until loud clicking, slowly tighten until clicking goes away then an additional 1/2 turn. If you do one side at a time and turn the idle down slightly it will not make any mess.
Click to expand...

Agreed. I buy an 18 pack of beer, put it in the fridge and use the box with the long end and two sides to set in the head. Keeps it clean and I have an excuse to drink more beer.
 
nsxxtreme said:
I've heard multiple renditions of this but I think if you are tightening them until its harder to spin that may be to tight.

I do it a different way. You will feel up and down play on a loose pushrod. So tighten until all the up and down play is gone then tighten 3/4 turn more. Now spin with your fingers you will see it's reletively easy to still spin it. So IMO if your tightening until you feel drag when your spinning it, then its to tight.
Click to expand...

This is what I do, but for me, 3/4 turn is too much. Ive always had to do 1/2 turn.
 
79rustyk10 said:
This is what I do, but for me, 3/4 turn is too much. Ive always had to do 1/2 turn.
Click to expand...

I was using full roller rockers, that could be the difference. While I tighten I watch very closely to see if the valve gets pushed down any. I'd say 1/2 to 3/4 turn is more then enough.
 
4X4HIGH said:
It's alot quicker to adjust with the engine running, loosen rocker until loud clicking, slowly tighten until clicking goes away then an additional 1/2 turn. If you do one side at a time and turn the idle down slightly it will not make any mess.
Click to expand...

This is how I always do it. Ive done a couple without the engine running and after I got them all done and started I always end up with some too loose or some too tight.

A friend of mine took an old set of stock valve covers and cut a slot all the way down the center so that the oil holes are still covered but you can get to the bolts. Takes a few extra seconds to bolt them on but makes it less messy, especially if you adjust valves regularly.
 
i usually like to do em running if I can.. either with my deflector clips, or naked if need be.. but I do a fair amount of preadjusting too, on a lot of short block and head jobs too, situation dependent.... I also have a set of sb and bb vc's with with a window cut out in em hangin in my garage....

1/2 turn on SB, 1/4 turn on BB...
 
ryoken said:
i usually like to do em running if I can.. either with my deflector clips, or naked if need be.. but I do a fair amount of preadjusting too, on a lot of short block and head jobs too, situation dependent.... I also have a set of sb and bb vc's with with a window cut out in em hangin in my garage....

1/2 turn on SB, 1/4 turn on BB...
Click to expand...

I would love to see you adjust valves on a short block. :haha:
 
meaning, I'm installing heads, wouldn't be doing valve adjustment on a prebuilt long block..
 
i dont know why you guys are questioning scott ( 4x4high ) since he built motors for years in his own shop and even a few for members here. :whistle:
 
so he's the god of motors and no one else here is as qualified?
 
4X4HIGH said:
Actually, most books i've seen say 1 full turn but in reality anywhere from 1/4-1 turn is acceptable BUT the tighter you make the adjustment the less RPM the engine will make.
Click to expand...

Can you please explain how that could be?
I'm not saying you're wrong, I'm just curious.
 
Fred_M1010 said:
Can you please explain how that could be?
I'm not saying you're wrong, I'm just curious.
Click to expand...

Because what you're doing is preloading the lifter and the more you preload it the less RPM you'll get before the valve starts to float.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom