Hydro Assist

[MrArmyAnt]

This is my next mod. Found a 2" bore I really like, really worried about it being slugish. Found some Hydraulic t connectors good for up to 10,000 psi, thought I would put a valve on eash side going to steering box (to be opened when off road) and two on the top of the t connect with drain tubes going up like the tranny, t case, axles, etc. To be open when on the road (the stabilizer will remain on). How much resistance does the ram have when open like that? Also the valves I found are only rated to 600 psi, anyone seen any rated for more, or a t connector valve? Should be able to do this for around 100 bucks.

 

[Jishory]

the ram goes where it wants, its not like a steering stabilizer where fluid flows back and fourth from either side, if you do that you would have to unbolt the ram when you close the valves, if you want quick reponse on the street id look into an upgraded pump

 

[MrArmyAnt]

Did any other chevy's have better pumps?

 

[6.2Blazer]

As already mentioned, I think if you shut off the lines to the ram with a valve it would lock up the ram since there is no place for the fluid to flow in and out.

If you are that concerned with it being sluggish on the road, then get something like a 1.5" ram.

 

[sandawgk5]

I run a 1.75" ram on the road and I have no issues with driveability.

I run a factory PS pump that I have done the mods from WTO to. If you have the money you can get a performance pump from PSC or HOWE also.

Dick

 

[MrArmyAnt]

As already mentioned, I think if you shut off the lines to the ram with a valve it would lock up the ram since there is no place for the fluid to flow in and out.

If you are that concerned with it being sluggish on the road, then get something like a 1.5" ram.

I know that, I meant that the t would allow the both ends of the ram to be open and exposed, not shut off. that way the remaining bits of fluid could go in and out. maybe just have disconnects at the ram, and put dust caps over it so it can still releave pressure on both sides.

 

[gmc4cw]

you are putting too much thought into this. If you unhook the lines from the ram or the box and leave them open you will get air in the system. there really is no simple way to bypass the ram without unbolting it from the tierod and axle.

if you want a faster ram, get a smaller diameter. I have a 2" bore with a 1.25" piston. I drove it on the road the other day and it was fine. these trucks are not race cars to begin with. being able to yank the wheel quickly from side to side is not as important as a proper amount of following distance.

 

[MrArmyAnt]

Ah so you have a 2" ram. There half the price of the 1.5's and have a stronger rod... If it didn't seem sluggish then that's All I needed to know, thanks!

 

[gmc4cw]

Ah so you have a 2" ram. There half the price of the 1.5's and have a stronger rod... If it didn't seem sluggish then that's All I needed to know, thanks!

I did all the mods to my pump to make it flow more volume.

Sluggish is relative to the user. I think it's fine because before I put it on I couldn't turn the wheels without being moving. now I can turn them lock to lock with the palm of my hand at idle. about 450 rpms. if I rev it up some I can turn quicker, or if the truck is rolling.

turn your speakers up real high for the video. it's running open pipes and sounds sweet.