What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Hydro Boost help

M

MaxCrack

1/2 ton status
Joined
Apr 10, 2001
Posts
896
Reaction score
3
Location
Mt View, CA
OK. I did a search and found lots of stuff, but nobody seemed to have my problem. I bled the power steering and the hydro booster, with the front end in the air, by turning the wheels and hitting the brake pedal a lot. Stopping for several minutes to get the bubbles out and repeating many many times. The steering eventually stopped making noise, but I still get noise when I hit the brake pedal. Also when I put the truck down and drove up and down the street once, The brakes work great, but make noise, and the power steering is not power steering, meaning it takes a lot of effort to turn, almost like there is no juice getting to the steering box. At the time of installation I also installed a power steering cooler after the T for the two low pressure lines.
Any ideas/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
Just a guess, but sounds like your cooler may be harboring a big air pocket. Which way is it mounted; fitings up/down/side, inlet/outlet?
 
now that you have run it, put it back in the air and bleed it again. took about 20 minutes when i put the AGR pump on, with Hydro, cooler, etc. it will take at least that, i would imagine.
 
Mine is making the same noise, but I still have steering... I have tried to bleed everything, but it's still making noise. IT's driving me Nucking Futs! /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
i know this sounds silly, but are all the belts lined up? mine aren't and i have problems like what you guys are describing. Dunno. Sounds like DW problems, thet are just there.
 
The cooler inlet outlets are pointing horizontally with the inlet on the bottom.

Like this...
/-------- -->out
\-------\
/-------/
\-------- <--in

The brakes work great but every time I hit the pedal I get the noise like there is air in the lines somewhere, and when steering I get no noise but it is very difficult to turn the wheel.
 
Well, your cooler is oriented right. If you can, you might try unbolting it and holding (hanging) it lower during bleeding. There's an air bubble int there somewhere. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
OK, I got around to doing more work on this. I found a rather large leak which was one problem. I had to replace the hose as there was a chunk missing out of the flared end. I also added a radiator hose to make the resavoir larger (before I found the leak I thought this might help, and my York is sitting right ontop of the pump, the hose makes it much easier to add fluid to the power steering)

Well, the leak is fixed, and the system seems to be fully bled and the steering works great. But, I still have a problem. When I start the engine, the brake pedal goes in by itself and the brakes are applied a little more than lightly. I know all the hoses are hooked up correctly. There is some kind of adjusting thing (at least it looks like what I would expect an adjusting thing to look like) in the front of the booster just above where the master cylinder mounts. Would this do anything? Do I need a different booster (again)? Or can this one be fixed? By me? Or by someone else cheaply?

Thanks for any help.
 
Did you install the brake pedal and pushrod that was from the doner truck? I know they are different and may be causing your brakes to be partially applied.
 
I have the brake pedal from the truck I got the booster from, but I don't need it. When I connected the booster to my brake pedal, the rod is about 1/2" shorter than my original and lines up perfectly. All I had to do was screw in the switch for the brake lights so that they work correctly.

My problem is that the booster is working all by itself with no input from me. I start the engine and the pedal moves in and applies the brakes.

I removed the belt today. The brakes work fine with no power, although I do have to push harder. I talked to a guy today that said I may have a damaged check valve.

(And man! What a bitch it is to steer that thing with the power steering out. 37" tires on normal rims on a dually front end, it almost takes two people to turn. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif)
 
Oops, I was speaking of the rod between the hydrabooster and the master cylender. Its probalby too long and is actuating the brakes at rest. When you bot the two together, there should be no resistance flushing them up together.
 
My hydrabooster was dragging the brakes last winter. I thought I was getting ready to puke a u-joint (vibration), then I felt the front hubs...WTF? Managed to milk-it for another day, had to stop every few miles, shut off the truck and pump down the hydrabooster. Hey it was frickken COLD! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

Replaced the booster with another one I had laying around. I looked at the old one but couldn't figure out why it malfunctioned /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
/forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif on hummers to see if the hydro boost is bad put the brake pedal to the floor before starting the rig then when you start it almost insantly it should pump up if it doesnt bad booster at least it works on hummers! /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom