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Hydro clutch swap issue

ntaj*ep

ntaj*ep

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OKAY!!!! I finally had it with replacing automatics and am doing a manual swap into my 75. SO, I have all factory parts except for the clutch master and pedal but can not get the clutch to release.
GM Hydro bellhousing
GM slave cyl
Hydro clutch fork
Hydro clutch kit with throwout bearing
Wilwood clutch pedal and compact .750 master attached with braided line

I have bled this off the truck and on the truck, I have no air in the system. I am getting alot of travel at the clutch fork on the transmission. But it will not release the clutch enough to get it into gear.
I tried to extend the slave rod as there seems to be alot of play before the throwout bearing hits the diaphram, it firmed up the pedal but still did not release the clutch. Also the fork looks like it is getting super close to maxing out in the bellhousing.
WTF am I doing wrong?
I have ordered 2 other Wilwood masters one is the same bore .750 but has a longer stroke the other is an identical stroke but has a .70 bore.... I am at a loss here and need the CK5 knowladge base.. Someone here has to have attempted this swap before and has some insight for me.. HELP I Have an event on mothers day weekend and am trying to make it happen!!!!
 
ntaj*ep said:
alot of play before the throwout bearing hits the diaphram, it firmed up the pedal but still did not release the clutch. Also the fork looks like it is getting super close to maxing out in the bellhousing.
Click to expand...
Who's hydro throwout did you use? this sounds exactly like a throwout bearing that isn't the right length.
 
There are 3 different heights of mechanical TO bearings. I use the intermediate ones
 
Before I send you down the rabbit hole, let’s see if anyone else has had this issue.
I’ve seen this before in all mechanical linkages, just want to make sure I dont send you down the wrong path

We’ll let this brew a bit
 
I had a similar problem albeit with different components, it ended up that I had the wrong clutch fork.
The one in the foreground ended up working for me.

1714345967244.png
 
I know on my hydro clutch, the t.o. Bearing rides on the diaphragm fingers all the time. There is no “free play” on a hydro
 
Correct me if I’m wrong but if the disc is in backwards won’t release, right?
 
Fastereddie said:
I know on my hydro clutch, the t.o. Bearing rides on the diaphragm fingers all the time. There is no “free play” on a hydro
Click to expand...
yes, it rides on the diaphram when I put in the slave.. But before the slave goes in there seems to be alot of play till it contacts the diaphram
 
Maybe the aftermarket master cylinder doesn’t jive turkey
 
I'm assuming it's a 465 is the trans you are using. Though it's not noted. Not that it matters, just curious. But I agree with Eddie, sum-ting-wong with the master. What I'm not sure is if it's just not working or the size of the cylinder is off and it's not providing enough "push" to the fluid to get the slave to move the fork enough to get the clutch to disengage.
 
What engine and transmission? I had to use a 1967 Camaro throw out bearing its a 1/4 longer, mine is a 5.3 with a 1992 NV4500…
 
ntaj*ep said:
yes, it rides on the diaphram when I put in the slave.. But before the slave goes in there seems to be alot of play till it contacts the diaphram
Click to expand...

Don't know if this applies to your situation, but I've had to adjust the rod length that comes from the slave in two different swaps.

Same as Fastereddie describes, there's a bit of preload on the fingers.
 
Okay... it is a 465/205 setup... bellhousing is a truck hydro unit
Just pulled the trans back out... the disk is in correctly... I am going to get another throw out bearing and see how they measure up
 
If you have a ls, the crank is .400 closer to the engine and needs a specific flywheel for the gap…
 
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