hydro

[nerraw117]

I must be an idiot. I am planning on putting on my ram at my buddies house that is even more of an idiot. how do you measure where to put on your ram? just push 4 inches out of the ram and weld it on? (i am using an 8 inch ram) i had planned on welding a 3/4 bolt to my axle and another to a tube clamp for the tie rod btw.

 

[GsxrMike]

Sounds good to me! But I really am not sure. I don't see why your idea wouldn't work. Just make sure everything is straight before you put your final welds in place.

 

[cybrfire]

I prefer to use the end of the stroke both on the cylinder and steering system to line them up.

Problem with using the center is, its kind of a pain to measure exactly straight across the tires to a leaf spring that may or may not be loaded or to a frame that may or may not be kinked, tweaked or loaded. Point is, if you go to a set stop on both the cylinder and the steering stop, you'll be better off.

So, turn the wheel hard left to the steering stop and hold it, shove the cylinder all the way out, attach the tube clamp or tabs for your tie rod.

Now disconnect the cylinder from the tie rod and cycle everything all the way the other direction and check the alignment.

Adjust from there.

EDIT: Take your time! measure twice and do it once.

 

[nerraw117]

while your mocking this up how do you normally temporarilly hold the cyl to the axle and tie rod? just tack weld?

 

[Mudstud]

I think I'd just mark the axle and the ram- fully extend the ram and turn everything lef- mark axle and ram. Turn right then realign the marks. My fear is that when I do this I will have another inch or so that the ram wants to contract while the wheel has all ready reached full lock. Anybody have comments on this?

I figure the ram will be strongest pushing out-extended, for that reason i would opt to have the ram fully extended and the wheel at full lock simoultanously. The ram isn't going to have as much power contracting so therefore if the ram has another inch or so before it bottoms out but the wheel has reached lock there would be less potential for breaking a knuckle. Sound right? - or is that where fine tuning the threaded ends comes into play. Adjust as needed to get the proper throw?

 

[mrk5]

You are right, the ram has more power going left - assuming you are installin it in the traditional method. That being the fixed end attached to axle near the diff housing and piston end attached to tie rod near the knuckle.

I just made sure that at full left the ram was fully extended and the threaded ends had room to adjust in or out.

Like Kert said, you should still cycle the steering before you weld it all in permanently. Good tac welds should hold everything fine and still be removeable.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

I prefer to use the end of the stroke both on the cylinder and steering system to line them up.

Problem with using the center is, its kind of a pain to measure exactly straight across the tires to a leaf spring that may or may not be loaded or to a frame that may or may not be kinked, tweaked or loaded. Point is, if you go to a set stop on both the cylinder and the steering stop, you'll be better off.

So, turn the wheel hard left to the steering stop and hold it, shove the cylinder all the way out, attach the tube clamp or tabs for your tie rod.

Now disconnect the cylinder from the tie rod and cycle everything all the way the other direction and check the alignment.

Adjust from there.

EDIT: Take your time! measure twice and do it once.

This is how I did mine