CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

hydroboost setup

chevyridinhigh79

1/2 ton status
Joined
Dec 1, 2006
Posts
1,074
Reaction score
1
Location
Steel City, PA
i have a 77 k10 that has a stock master cylinder and power booster that are bad. i recently swapped one tons into my 77 and have no brakes even after they were bled twice and im leaking fluid from the master, so my brake pedal goes all the way to the floor. it does stop at 5 mph with the brakes the way they are, but any faster and there would be a disaster. i was told my power booster would be alright as long as theres no fluid inside it, but i want to convert to hydroboost anyway. so my question is, whats involved in swapping my stock master cylinder and power booster over to a hydroboost setup?
 
you need a different p.s. pump and a few extra hoses. other than that, just the hydrobooster and master cylinder.
 
it has to do with the bolt pattern...

The old pedal assembly has 6 studs that coem through the firewall...
The hydroboost pedal assemply has 4... and 2 on the hydroboost setup in teh engine bay...
 
Last edited:
You DO NOT have to get a new pedal assembly. I just knocked out the two studs that go the otherway and used the originals. I works, "I done it."
 
why the pedal assembly? couldn't you just change the plunger rod?


The plunger rod is at a different position on the pedal lever on the hydroboost than on a vacuum, so I switched pedal assy's when I went to hydroboost. I s'pose I could have drilled the existing lever, had I known where to put the mount for the plunger rod... or I could have left it there, though I would be concerned about damage to the hydroboost, due to excess travel and/or the wrong angle on the plunger.

I figure if GM made them different it was done for a reason, so I switched out *all* the pieces.

-- A
 
I also had to redrill the pedal assembly. The holes are about 3/4''-1'' apart. The hole is also a different diameter. Using the existing hole caused the rod to be at an angle and caused leakage. I pulled mine from a 4 spd and put it in an auto so the pedal was wrong or else i would have swapped the whole assembly.
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom