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I am soooo frustrated ! ! ! ! ! ! !

I did try advancing the timing some, with no change in the vaccum. I also talked to a few local mechanics and they said I should still be getting about 18-20inchs of vaccum at the manifold, so 12 inches is way low, even here in Cheyenne.....
I have the engine tore down to the timeing chain cover, taking a short break right now...and then back to finish it off.
 
Okay, got clear down to the timing cover, got it off and took a min to clean it up, looked at the timing chain...it is still DOT TO DOT! No slop, basically perfect.....GGGGRRRRR! It did need a front seal, so was not a total waist of time, but still does not fix the original problem.
So to rehash, the truck was running fine, after adding the 35" tires, little loss of power, but that is due to tire size/ rear gears, so no problem there. Wednesday afternoon i deceided to replace the air filter, fuel filter. I changed the air filter, and when I took the threaded peice that holds the fuel filter in the quadrajet off, I saw the threads had been cross threaded in the past, so when I put the new filter in, I used teflon tape on the threads as well as a new gasket...and it leaked when I fired the truck off. I tried a few times to get it to seal up with no luck, got totally frustrated with it, pulled the filter out, used some JB-Quick on the threads and sealed it up that way, with no filter on the carb. I did change the steel hard fuel line out to a rubber line, with a inline filter on it, so it is filtered.
When for a drive to Ft.Collins Colorado, about 50 miles one way, and the truck had no power to climb any hills. On the flats, and down hill it ran fine..75-80 MPH with fair pick up when I need to pass someone/something. Hit a minor hill, and speed would drop down to 50 or so at best real fast. My thought was a vacume leak. I checked for vaccum leaks with either at the base of the carb and at the various vaccum fittings, no leaks found.
I then used a vaccum guage to check the vaccum and found the engine was only making 12" of vaccum. I hooked the vaccum guage up on the manifold, at a fitting right behind the carb. According to a few local mechanics, I should have 22" at sea level, and about 18-20" here in Cheyenne due to elevation, so it is low. The vaccum is steady, but low, and according to my Petersons manual, that indicates a valve timming is late. My thought was timming chain, but as indicated above, when I got to it it was still dot to dot and no slop to it.
I also changed the fuel pump out during this time, as I was thinking maybe the problem was low fuel pressure, but that did not fix the problem, so I went on to the timming chain.
Any ideas guys? Is it possable when I JB-Welded the filter fitting I got some inside the carb and that is fouling things up? Is it possable I have a cam going flat on me? I just need to get this thing fixed for a few months, cause as soon as our taxes get here, we are putting a new GM Crate motor in the truck, my early Birthday present from my wife!:bow: This truck is our ONLY vehicle and we have three kids in school, wife works two jobs and goes to school full time, so we can NOT afford to be with out a car for long.... PLEASE HELP!
 
The only thing that will allow the engine to make low vacuum is a hot (other than stock) cam.
 
Since you already have the front of the engine tore apart i would advise pulling the cam and checking for any numbers on the back end of the cam. If you find ANY numbers on it it is not stock.
 
Don't pull the cam. You already determined the chain and gears are fine, and lobes don't instantly go flat.
The first component you dealt with was fuel/carb. In working on the "in-carb" filter, you may have "disturbed" the float and/or opened a vaccuum leak at the carb base. I'd check float level and retorque the 4 carb mounting bolts. Those 4 bolts have to be checked pretty frequently. :D
 
Uncle Fester said:
:doah: I will do that Goldwing...but I got to put her back together first.......:doah:
Click to expand...

Actually, you don't. Not really. It helps to have the engine warmed up but you can crank it over without a timing cover in place. It will give you some indications that may warrant further inspection.

Here's a couple web sites that may help:
http://www.vaa15.org/tips/2004-12.html
http://www.automedia.com/Engine/Compression/Test/ccr20050801cc/1

There are plenty more. Just do a web search.

To elaborate on roadnotca's point, if the cam lobes had rounded out, you would have been having hellacious valvetrain noise.
 
I can just crank it to get a compression check? I don't have to start it? I will do that.....If nothing else out of morbid curiousity now!
I have to admit, I am soo frustrated with this motor right now, I am thinking about parking the Suburban untill we get the new motor, buying us a $500.00 beater car/truck to use as a daily driver for now, and not worrying about this motor at all.
As I said, I am going to do a compression test on it, just to see what I find out. After that I will deceide what to do with the truck. I am really beginning to wonder if it is the stupid carb too, that is the last thing I touched before it started acting up...grrr I HATE MECHANICAL THINGS RIGHT NOW!!!:mad: :mad:
 
You HAVE to just crank it for a compression test. You don't want it to be running! :eek1:

Definitely check out the carb, too. If you got some of that JB in there blocking things off, it could be bad news. Even some of that teflon tape could make things go wrong.

Also, does it still have a catalytic converter? If that plugs up, it can cause all kinds of fresh hell. Definitely loss of power and poor fuel economy. Possibly even low vacuum if it's creating too much back-pressure. :thinking:
 
No cats on the truck and a good free flowing 2.5" single pipe into a single chamber, flowmaster type, muffler with dual 2.5" outlets exhust, that was just put on the truck a few months ago, at most.
As for the carb, I was wondering about the JB-Quick or teflon tape getting in there and screwing things up....
 
Well, after getting a better look inside the engine, I have deceided to just put a fresh engine in the truck, wear marks I saw tell me there is possably as much as 200K or more on the engine...so rebuild or replace time. I figure, due to our tight finances, the truck will be down for 3 to 6 months as I SLOWLY rebuild or replace the engine...I have to deceide which way to go there. I can get a GM Crate motor(long block) from Summit, that makes 260hp and 350FP torque for 1500.00 plus 135 shipping. I would need to get my new intake and carb, and a few other parts with this, so total cost would be about $2000.00. Or I can spend about $2000.00 and have my block rebuilt, but I don't know what shape the internals are or how many miles are on the block/crank. Any suggestions on which way to go? The link below is the crate motor, so you can see which one I am looking at. Thanks guys. I will keep you updated as to what route I deceide to go and how the build is going too.


http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+4294925232+4294918831+115+400129

I also plan to do some other mods while the truck is down, dual batteries, bigger alt, rework the radiator, stuff like that so I will post up in this thread how that is going too.
 
Thats the same motor I bought. It has been a fine motor.
You might do slightly better on cost by surfing the part #10067353.
 
I picked up a daily driver the otherday, found us a 1984 F**D Conversion van for $500.00! N ot too bad, and now the kids each have their own seat so alot less fighting when we travel anywhere....like the store or to Denver, or to McDonalds or where ever we go! lol
 
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