I can't figure it out??? Lift block question (with pics)

[THRILLBILLY]

I just recently did my 14 bolt swap after months of it collecting dust. Lift blocks wasn't my first choice but with funds tight at the moment and living in an apartment there is only so much I can do. I've never had a problem with running blocks before but this time around I am stumped.

I purchased the block kit through 4WheelParts, I put them in and noticed the block overhanging the backside of the spring perch. DIdn't think anything of it and just kept on going. Finished the install and took it for a test drive. after 2 miles of driving I headed back home, and got out to check everything and noticed something that is really concerning me...

What it looked like before the test drive:

after the test drive:

I pulled everything apart to make sure I didn't overlook anything and test drove it again and the same thing happened!!! I dont understand why it's wanting to kick itself out. The U-Bolts are tight as hell, and all the alignment pins are in place. Before my swap I had a 5 1/2'' block with the 1/2 ton axle that was under there along with the same 6" lift spring and degree shim, and never had an issue. I'm just confused as to why it is doing this...

Anyone have an idea as to why its doing it???

 

[imiceman44]

I just recently did my 14 bolt swap after months of it collecting dust. Lift blocks wasn't my first choice but with funds tight at the moment and living in an apartment there is only so much I can do. I've never had a problem with running blocks before but this time around I am stumped.

I purchased the block kit through 4WheelParts, I put them in and noticed the block overhanging the backside of the spring perch. DIdn't think anything of it and just kept on going. Finished the install and took it for a test drive. after 2 miles of driving I headed back home, and got out to check everything and noticed something that is really concerning me...

What it looked like before the test drive:

after the test drive:

I pulled everything apart to make sure I didn't overlook anything and test drove it again and the same thing happened!!! I dont understand why it's wanting to kick itself out. The U-Bolts are tight as hell, and all the alignment pins are in place. Before my swap I had a 5 1/2'' block with the 1/2 ton axle that was under there along with the same 6" lift spring and degree shim, and never had an issue. I'm just confused as to why it is doing this...

Anyone have an idea as to why its doing it???

Well the angle of your Ubolts is not helping, it keps pressure more on one side, plus having the wedge compounds the problem, now if the centering pin is still in it's place on the block and perch and springs, all I would do is to keep tightening it every day for a week, until you can't tighten it anymore no matter how much you drive, then if you go off road, check after you come back. If it doesn't show any problems like spitting out completely or moving more than a 1/4" then you'll be fine.
I hate blocks.

 

[cybrfire]

Is there a taper to that block? Hard to tell from the pics. Looks like the pins can't possibly be in the top of the block, looks way out of center in the picture.

Looks like aluminum shims. I'd get rid of those ASAP if they are aluminum.

Before the test drive picture, were the blocks hanging of the front of the perch that far as well?

 

[THRILLBILLY]

Well the angle of your Ubolts is not helping, I hate blocks.

I hate them too... probably will be next year when I get a house before I get a shackle flip. As far as the angle of the u bolts, should they be angled forward to match how the spring plate sits?

Is there a taper to that block? Hard to tell from the pics. Looks like the pins can't possibly be in the top of the block, looks way out of center in the picture.

Looks like aluminum shims. I'd get rid of those ASAP if they are aluminum.

Before the test drive picture, were the blocks hanging of the front of the perch that far as well?

Yes there is a taper to the block. Measures 4'' in the back and IIRC 3 1/4" on the front. The blocks in the front were perfectly in line with the spring perch edge on the front. I looked at it again and the pin in the spring is just BARELY in there. And I believe the shims are aluminum... I KNOW I KNOW!

 

[imiceman44]

I hate them too... probably will be next year when I get a house before I get a shackle flip. As far as the angle of the u bolts, should they be angled forward to match how the spring plate sits?




Yes there is a taper to the block. Measures 4'' in the back and IIRC 3 1/4" on the front. The blocks in the front were perfectly in line with the spring perch edge on the front. I looked at it again and the pin in the spring is just BARELY in there. And I believe the shims are aluminum... I KNOW I KNOW!

I was going to mention the aluminum shims, they look hammered.
I had aluminum shims with aluminum blocks, and those were fine because they were both the same material, drove my truck 6 years with them and they still looked perfect and never broke.
I only had a 2" block though and I don't have blocks anymore.
As for the Ubolt, it's not really anything you can do, unless you drill a hole offset in the top plate to move the ubolts more inline with the block.

 

[THRILLBILLY]

I was going to mention the aluminum shims, they look hammered.
I had aluminum shims with aluminum blocks, and those were fine because they were both the same material, drove my truck 6 years with them and they still looked perfect and never broke.
I only had a 2" block though and I don't have blocks anymore.
As for the Ubolt, it's not really anything you can do, unless you drill a hole offset in the top plate to move the ubolts more inline with the block.

Yeah the shims are a little abused but I need them or something like them to help with pinion angle since I am running such a tall lift. So I'll have to find some.

The Spring plates is from DIY4X. They do have a slot in them where the pin rests, so moving it forward or back isn't an issue, although how do they keep from moving even when the U-Bolt is tight? I guess just continue to tighten them down until I break a socket or breaker bar? haha

 

[Blue85]

I don't think that's going to work. The overload is curved because you can't get the U-bolts tight enough. The aluminum shim is killing your mellow. Everything should be drawn flat between the U-bolts. What you should do is have the taper put into those blocks. I did it once with a band saw, cleaned it up with a belt sander and drilled the hole deeper for the center pin.


Why do you need so much shim anyway? It just looks like the pinion angle must be higher than the T-case angle now. If there has to be a shim, it should be at least as long as the block.

It also looks like the holes in the top plate are too far apart. Is it built that way intentionally?

 

[THRILLBILLY]

I don't think that's going to work. The overload is curved because you can't get the U-bolts tight enough. The aluminum shim is killing your mellow. Everything should be drawn flat between the U-bolts. What you should do is have the taper put into those blocks. I did it once with a band saw, cleaned it up with a belt sander and drilled the hole deeper for the center pin.


Why do you need so much shim anyway? It just looks like the pinion angle must be higher than the T-case angle now. If there has to be a shim, it should be at least as long as the block.

It also looks like the holes in the top plate are too far apart. Is it built that way intentionally?

I'm gonna get rid of the shim, and the block already has a taper to it. As far as the plates I have no idea, I just bought them from DIY4X.

 

[plyr2k]

put the shim on the bottom of the block.

 

[imiceman44]

put the shim on the bottom of the block.

never do that.

To the OP:
You need good steel shims so they don't squish or dent like yours are, they are curved now and will keep getting worse with th back and forth movement.
Now the best way to keep things straight and tight is to have a shim on the bottom of the spring like you do, and another on top of the spring in the oppsite direction, it will keep the top plate parallel and the Ubolts won't make the block spit out.
If you want, I do have such shims if you figure out you still need them, but my guess you probably have enough angle now from the block.
Let me know.

 

[sweetk30]

and rerun and secure that brake line threw the hose bracket.

not good to let a line hang unsuported like that . will brake the line much faster.

next as said ditch the aluminum shims thay SUCK ! get some new spring perches from ruff stuff or kirt at diy4x and set the angle you need and weld them up. the more you add in a spring setup the more it wants to walk around.

and get rid of the cheep a$$ lift kit crap quality ubolts and get some real ones that are custom made. and also jump up to 5/8 rod on the ubolts for a better hold.

 

[THRILLBILLY]

I finally got time to remove the aluminum shims and redo everything for the third time and I finally got it all to line up right! Thanks everyone for the help! now I can finally move on in the build progress.