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I can't win! Calling the big guns - please help - UPDATE

sounds like pump wiring to me... start the truck... get under and follow that harness to where it goes over the tank, and give it a good shake.. but even if that doesn't stall it, I'd still shut it down, disassemble and check those connections for green, etc..
 
K5_Fla said:
bro... I can't spary starting fluid down the carb immediately when I'm running down the road at 45 mph. Your idea sounds good in therory.. but not possible. Very random issue and most the time it doesnt happen while at idel.

What I can do is temporary route my fuel pressure gauge on the hood so I can see while driving. This may be sometime I have to do so I know if I'm loosing pressure when the stalling comes
Click to expand...

so when you coast onto the shoulder, the vehicle starts immediately again? Since it dies on you, you can't restart right away in neutral while cruising? I already asked this earlier. If you're dead on the side of the road, checking spark or spraying fuel down the carb is pretty easy. Coast into a parking lot, shoulder, etc
 
It will spit and sputter ... and then die. Just like it's running out of gas. I come to stop on the side of the road... turn it over a few seconds and it fires back up , runs great and continues on like nothing ever happened.

Fuel pump that was in there was pretty new….only around 6 months old. But I still changed it to a brand new OEM pump... I checked the wiring.. all looks good.
Brand new fuel regulator coming on Tues .. I don't think this will fix the problem.. but we'll see.... it's something I have to eliminate.

At this point I'm just throwing parts at the problem... anything fuel / spark related.
My main concern is that this is a random wiring problem somewhere that I will never find!
 
Guess i'd duct tape a fuel pressure gauge to the windshield then and drive it around and see if it dies when there is no fuel pressure. Or check the carbs fuel bowls as they'll be empty.
 
Fuel pump ground on the frame was cleaned to bare shiny metal… and re installed with new bolt.

I did shake the fuel pump power connector around for a while today with the truck idling. Never skipped a beat.

Also installed new plug wires – just to eliminate one more thing.

New fuel regulator coming next week – until then I adjusted the pressure on the one I have now. Jacked it up to 6 psi to see if that changes anything ( was running 5 psi)

keep coming with the ideas....
 
I will take for a drive tomorrow to see if anything I did today fixed the problem
 
I'm curious, does the problem typically happen under acceleration? 5psi seems a little low, iirc most run around 7psi - maybe it's running out of gas?

The regulator may not be a bad idea either. I've had one before (Russell brand, I think) that would drop to around 2psi under W.O.T. and the truck would starve to death.
 
Don't give up. GalDemSuga worked on one for a couple of months and finally fixed it. And I worked on a problem on my old Jeep, and finally fixed it.
Only took me 9 years.........

The other posters have a point with the starter fluid, but its not likely you will be able to try it.
They do make remote starter fluid kits for diesel trucks so a guy can give it a shot in the morning from inside the cab.
You could rig one of those up, but you are better off with a remote fuel pressure gauge.

I know that it sounds like gas, but trust me, under certain circumstances an ignition problem will sputter and bog just like that.

Usually its caused by the ignition partially losing voltage slowly. In other words, instead of the power to the system just going to zero, it starts getting lower and lower until the firing becomes erratic.

Which brings up a remote, but easily checked possibility.
You may have a problem with your ignition switch. It could be losing contact, and regaining it when you try to restart it.

Next time it does it, wiggle the switch while it is trying to stall.

Remember, the switch is not where the key goes in unless its a dash mount.

So, just wiggling that part on the column does nothing. If the theory is correct, then the contact is restored when you turn it to start.

Therefore, when it starts sputtering, turn it towards start. Be careful not to engage the starter, but turn it at least half way and see if it fixes it.
 
I was thinking that same thing... could be starving? hell who knows.... The bog/stalling tends to happen just riding along normal on the gas.... not really when I hammer on the gas.

This is the regulator I have now... replacing Tuesday with the same thing http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PFS-10653/
 
good idea fordum...thanks. So the ignition switch is the white thing above my knees under the dash?? Do you have a pic of the ignition switch ? how to change it? I can just change it now as I'm sure it cheap.. changed every other damn thing already...

remote fuel pressure gauge will be installed next week if the new regulator doesn’t fix it.
 
If the symptom seems better tomorrow try pushing the fuel pressure just a hair higher, most carbs can stand about 7.5~8 psi before they begin to over run the needle & seat and then flood.
 
Wish I could help there. Remember my name.......I don't have a Chevy to look at.

I know its attached to the column, and is operated by a stiff rod hooked to a rack and pinion operated by the key switch.

Its designed to not be easy to get loose, since if you can take it loose all you have to do is push in where the rod goes and crank the truck.

But, its not impossible. Ask around if no one chimes in. I know there have been several replaced since I have been hanging around here.

I seem to remember that its held on by pop rivets, or something like that........
 
Fordum said:
Wish I could help there. Remember my name.......I don't have a Chevy to look at.

I know its attached to the column, and is operated by a stiff rod hooked to a rack and pinion operated by the key switch.

Its designed to not be easy to get loose, since if you can take it loose all you have to do is push in where the rod goes and crank the truck.

But, its not impossible. Ask around if no one chimes in. I know there have been several replaced since I have been hanging around here.

I seem to remember that its held on by pop rivets, or something like that........
Click to expand...
oh snap!

I remember I had that problem...AFTER I changed my dizzy...:doah:
 
Making progress!!! So this morning I fire up the truck… immediately it started acting up stalling , etc. So I pop the hood to look at the fuel pressure gauge… 0 psi. I finally get it cranked back up and the while it’s running the fuel pressure was still 0. After 30 seconds it stalls again.

Ok it’s obviously starving for fuel… I wait a few min… crank , crank and it starts running again… fuel pressure now reads 5.5psi… it stays running now for over 10 min and then I turned it off.

The problem has to be 1 of 2 things.

1. Something is crapping out inside of the fuel pressure regulator and it’s not keeping constant pressure. I have a new one being delivered this week… so I will replace and know for sure.
2. Something is causing my fuel pump to only get power “part time” ( remember this is a brand new pump and the pump before did the same thing) I know the pump is working… the question is the pump getting power ALL the time. Not sure how I can test that…
 
just took the truck on a 25 mile drive in 90+ degree heat. Stop and go + highway mix. Never missed a beat .. ran perfect.
 
It could so easily be a loose connection to the fuel pump, but the ignition switch has to still be suspect.
It was the only thing that changed from no run to run.
You didn't wiggle any wires, or even move the truck. But you did move the contacts inside the switch every time you turned it off and on and over to crank.

Since you have narrowed it down the the fuel pressure, that gives us someting to go on.
At this point, you have a few options.
You could just replace the ignition switch, might be a pain, but won't hurt anything. No idea of the price....

Looks like according to which one you have, it ranges from about 5 to 31 dollars.

If you don't want to go that way, you could rig a pair of wires from the pump wires as close to the pump as you can, and hook a meter to them.

Then crank the motor, and wiggle the switch, and any other wires you can get to while watching for the power to the pump to glitch.
 
I'd be more likely to suspect the pump relay failing or connection there... since it's carbed, it's symptoms are a lot more likely to be missed..
 
I thought about a relay but didn't have my haynes book to verify that it infact had one. I would replace it they are cheep anyways. But i would be suspect on that ignition switch as well maybe wiggle those fuses while the truck is running too, ive seen some crazy things on a fuse block. I once bought a truck that had tin foil surrounding the headlight fuse.
 
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