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I do more damage in my driveway than any off-roading I actually get to do

johnatthebox

johnatthebox

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Vallejo, Ca.
This is so stupid.....frustrating and stupid.....

I swapped intake manifolds on my blazer, so I had taken the alternator off just to get it out of the way. when I put it back on, I didnt slide the rubber boot back over the "bat" wire on the back of the alternator and my metal fuel line had moved over and was touching it...........SO, when I connected the battery things went snap crackle pop, there was a intense glow from somewhere around the distributor/ firewall area, and now nothing happens when I turn the key.
Sparing me the "that was avoidable" or "you should always check first" comments(both are true and I already feel the burn of another lesson learned) I could use some help in figuring out what I need to fix

What ive already done:
moved the metal fuel line(duh) and went ahead and replaced the "bat" wire from alternator to the starter solinoid.
replaced the HEI cap and the "bat" wire to the fuse panel- none of which seemed melted or smelled burnt, but still nothing when i turn the key. Ive got power to the fuse pannel and everything else seems to be fine
Electronics aint my thing- any ideas?:dunno:
thanks
 
Yep, there will be one or more fusible links that are toast. They're like a high-amperage fuse, but they don't LOOK like a fuse, so they can be confusing to the uninitiated. Dorman -- those red "Help!" cards at the parts house -- sells them, for example

http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-13852-85621.aspx

That's just an example, not that you need that specific part #. They are color-coded for different amperage capacity, so if the old one is grey, don't replace it with one that's purple or orange or whatever, get a grey one.

I know there's one at the starter, and another at the firewall on a block somewhere, as mentioned above, and there might be more on your particular truck. It'll vary by year and equipment level. I have some generic and not always useful wiring diagrams on my http://brochures.slosh.com web page, or you can scrounge up a factory manual on Ebay. Once you know what to look for, though, they're not hard to find, and you just continuity test them like any other piece of wire.

Oh yeah, and any "oops" you do with electricity and fuel that *doesn't* result in an engine compartment fire is not catastrophic. Annoying as all hell, yes, but re-wiring the entire engine due to fire would truly suck.

-- A
 
The only wire I haven't just completely replaced ( in the starting system) is the one going from the little terminal of the starter solenoid up to somewhere in the firewall I assume to the ignition switch? I haven't run into any fusable links yet, BUT this isn't factory wiring by any means. This truck is a total Frankenstein creation. I'm trying to shore it all up as I go thru it.

Is this where that solenoid wire stops at before going inside maybe? (See photo)1502576485161-780644693.jpg
 
"Oh yeah, and any "oops" you do with electricity and fuel that *doesn't* result in an engine compartment fire is not catastrophic. Annoying as all hell, yes, but re-wiring the entire engine due to fire would truly suck."

I heard that!
Prolly is what I should do anyway and just get it over with.....
Wiring will never be easy for me- Ive got big hands, poor eyesight, and a quick temper.....lol
 
The junction that you posted the picture of, has a wire going to the starter. (IIRC)
You should look at the starter for the fuse links. Originally, the fuse links came off of the starter and put power to wires which ran up the back of the engine towards the cab.
The small wire to engage the starter shouldn't be a problem since you weren't cranking the engine when things got hot.
The fuse links are just wire that is smaller than the wire in the rest of the circuit. The factory used plastic or rubber covers on the connetor where it hooked to the wire it protected.
Check for power on that junction, if you don't have any, then follow it down, it should lead you to the problem.

And may a just say, that if you look at it with the attitude of NOT letting inanimate objects get to you, then your temper may stay calm longer???????
I hear ya though....
 
There should be another fusible link in the thick red wire that goes to that junction block next to the brake booster ,and one or two at the starter solenoid,in the red wires that go behind the battery cable at the solenoid..

GM put a metal condiut over those wires to protect them from the hot exhaust manifold,but ends up roasting the wires instead often--the fusible links may be hiding inside that conduit if its still there..

On my trucks I have always re-routed those wires with the fusible links directly to the battery positive terminal,so all I have at the solenoid is the positive cable and the purple "crank" wire--too many times I've had the links fry the way GM had them arranged..and its a pain in the anus to fix them,worst spot they could have chose...older pre-72 trucks had those wires right to the battery,they should have left it that way..
 
6872xtc said:
The junction that you posted the picture of, has a wire going to the starter. (IIRC)
You should look at the starter for the fuse links. Originally, the fuse links came off of the starter and put power to wires which ran up the back of the engine towards the cab.
The small wire to engage the starter shouldn't be a problem since you weren't cranking the engine when things got hot.
The fuse links are just wire that is smaller than the wire in the rest of the circuit. The factory used plastic or rubber covers on the connetor where it hooked to the wire it protected.
Check for power on that junction, if you don't have any, then follow it down, it should lead you to the problem.

And may a just say, that if you look at it with the attitude of NOT letting inanimate objects get to you, then your temper may stay calm longer???????
I hear ya though....
Click to expand...
In theory, yes, but the inanimate objects in my shop are in open rebellion, and often plot against me. We battle. Sometimes I win, sometimes they win.........
 
diesel4me said:
There should be another fusible link in the thick red wire that goes to that junction block next to the brake booster ,and one or two at the starter solenoid,in the red wires that go behind the battery cable at the solenoid..

GM put a metal condiut over those wires to protect them from the hot exhaust manifold,but ends up roasting the wires instead often--the fusible links may be hiding inside that conduit if its still there..

On my trucks I have always re-routed those wires with the fusible links directly to the battery positive terminal,so all I have at the solenoid is the positive cable and the purple "crank" wire--too many times I've had the links fry the way GM had them arranged..and its a pain in the anus to fix them,worst spot they could have chose...older pre-72 trucks had those wires right to the battery,they should have left it that way..
Click to expand...
Sounds like a good idea. Can you fill in the blank here for me?(see pic) Where do the other wires that I would be taking off of the solinoid and moving to the battery go to?

20170815_121842.jpg
 
You would come off of the battery and to junction terminal, but you may want to move that, depending on how you run the wires.
 
I think so, but I honestly would feel better about verification on that truck.
So let me say that I hope to help however I can, but please don't get in a hurry to hook up the power!! Check it out for yourself first.
 
All I do is remove just the red wire(s) at the solenoid --some years had two wires,others only one--the ones that have the fusible links, and attach them directly to the positive battery terminal--you'll probably have to extend them a bit to reach...I left the rest of the harness un-touched..
 
To get rid of those extra wires at the starter I extended them up and put a extra fuse block a few inches from the battery. So now anytime I need to run anything new I have a fresh place that's fused to
Run the new circuit off of. Mine has 8 twenty amp fuse spots and I replaced the original positive terminal block with it as mine failed. It was like ten bucks at auto zone.
 
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