I know for a lot of you its not a big deal but im changing my own front brakes myslef for the first time, but hey thats why i am on here right so i can learn how to do it myslef. So i am at a stopping point now, i have one question, how do i get my rotors off so i can take them in and hve then turned??? HELP
CK5
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I doing it
- Thread starter TC4x4
- Start date
You need a 4 prong hub socket to remove the spindle nut. Get one from Napa, Auto Zone or Checker before you proceed.
He's at a stopping point... Anyone else thought that was funny?
I saw that too but also saying there's no way he's gonna get the rotors off without the socket.
I dont see wahts o funny please explain...
Anyway where my worn hubs goes into the axle that metal piece outside of the rotor what is that and between that and the rotor on the seem ther is nothced spots where it looks like you coud pry it off, so do i have to take me hub then that off, its all apart and im leaving for school so could someone walk me throught it???
Anyway where my worn hubs goes into the axle that metal piece outside of the rotor what is that and between that and the rotor on the seem ther is nothced spots where it looks like you coud pry it off, so do i have to take me hub then that off, its all apart and im leaving for school so could someone walk me throught it???
Do you have any type of service manual for the reassembly? The sockets? Torque wrench?
Snap ring plyers? Not absolutely necessary, but very useful.
Are going to replace the kannipler pin while you are in there?
Snap ring plyers? Not absolutely necessary, but very useful.
Are going to replace the kannipler pin while you are in there?
brunok5
Registered Member
You will need to pull the lockouts off, and then the spindle nut. Yes you will need the tools listed above and you should really get a book for the pictures and little what nots.
The Mule said:
You are working on you brakes right? Then you said you are at a stopping point...
eh wink wink nudge nudge...
Oh i get whats so funny now.So I need to pull the hub off and that opens up the bolt that i need to take off is that corret? so then i can pull the rotor off?
I REALLY WANT TO LEARN HOW TO DO THESE THINGS GUYS AND THE BEST WAY TO DO THIS I JUST DO THE PROJECT AND I DONT CARE IF IT TAKES LONGER THAT NORMAL SO PLEASE JUST BEAR WITH MY GUYS, THANKS FOR THE HELP
I REALLY WANT TO LEARN HOW TO DO THESE THINGS GUYS AND THE BEST WAY TO DO THIS I JUST DO THE PROJECT AND I DONT CARE IF IT TAKES LONGER THAT NORMAL SO PLEASE JUST BEAR WITH MY GUYS, THANKS FOR THE HELP
COPIED FROM THE 6 TO 8 LUG CONVERSION TECH THREAD AND "MODIFIED" FOR YOUR SPECIFIC TASK....
Tools required to do this swap aren’t extravagant or complex. Most of your basic tools will get it done, but the most important tool to have, and if you don’t have it then don’t even bother starting this job is the Hub socket. It can be purchased from your local parts store, NAPA carries it, and even JC Whitney (who I bought mine from) carries the socket. Costs around $15 and it’s a necessity. You’ll need it in the future to repack your wheel bearings or to do a simple brake job anyway, so ya might as well get it.
1. Find a nice level area and park your rig with the parking brake on, or if ya don’t have one then put blocks in front and back of your rear wheels. Remember, Safety first…
2. Jack up the axle and put it on jack stands. Remove your wheels, then the calipers and secure them out of the way. Don’t just let them hang from the brake line, actually secure them as that could damage the brake lines.
3. Remove the locking hubs with an allen wrench, then use a small screw driver or pick to remove the inner and outer lock rings to get the inner splines out. Then use a couple of the allen bolts that held the locking hub in and screw them in so you can pull out the inner spline.
4. Now here’s where you grab your Hub Socket and take off the first lock nut. Remove the washer and the second lock nut and you can pull the rotor/hub assembly right off.
5. Take your rotors out to get them turned smooth (just like what you mentioned earlier in the thread)
6. Now you can install the hub onto the spindle. Put the outer bearing in and start threading the inner locknut. (inner locknut has a pin that points outward). Other than that, they look the same so don’t get them confused. There is a particular torque setting that is applied when you initially tighten up so you properly seat the bearings. You’ll have to consult your Haynes manual for it but I’ll give the general description. Tighten the first lock nut while spinning the wheel so the bearings seat properly, tighten till its snug (not too tight where the wheel wont turn anymore) but tight enough that the wheel starts to slow down a little bit after you spin it. Then the tricky part comes where you play "Line up the ducks" with the washer. You might have to tighten or loosen up the lock nut to align the pin with the washer but once you got that you’re set. Outer lock nut goes on and then you can put your locking hubs back on. Don’t forget the inner and outer lock rings (been there, don’t that)
7. Now all that’s left is the caliper. New pads would be a good idea as everything else is basically new.
It's the best I can do.
Tools required to do this swap aren’t extravagant or complex. Most of your basic tools will get it done, but the most important tool to have, and if you don’t have it then don’t even bother starting this job is the Hub socket. It can be purchased from your local parts store, NAPA carries it, and even JC Whitney (who I bought mine from) carries the socket. Costs around $15 and it’s a necessity. You’ll need it in the future to repack your wheel bearings or to do a simple brake job anyway, so ya might as well get it.
1. Find a nice level area and park your rig with the parking brake on, or if ya don’t have one then put blocks in front and back of your rear wheels. Remember, Safety first…
2. Jack up the axle and put it on jack stands. Remove your wheels, then the calipers and secure them out of the way. Don’t just let them hang from the brake line, actually secure them as that could damage the brake lines.
3. Remove the locking hubs with an allen wrench, then use a small screw driver or pick to remove the inner and outer lock rings to get the inner splines out. Then use a couple of the allen bolts that held the locking hub in and screw them in so you can pull out the inner spline.
4. Now here’s where you grab your Hub Socket and take off the first lock nut. Remove the washer and the second lock nut and you can pull the rotor/hub assembly right off.
5. Take your rotors out to get them turned smooth (just like what you mentioned earlier in the thread)
6. Now you can install the hub onto the spindle. Put the outer bearing in and start threading the inner locknut. (inner locknut has a pin that points outward). Other than that, they look the same so don’t get them confused. There is a particular torque setting that is applied when you initially tighten up so you properly seat the bearings. You’ll have to consult your Haynes manual for it but I’ll give the general description. Tighten the first lock nut while spinning the wheel so the bearings seat properly, tighten till its snug (not too tight where the wheel wont turn anymore) but tight enough that the wheel starts to slow down a little bit after you spin it. Then the tricky part comes where you play "Line up the ducks" with the washer. You might have to tighten or loosen up the lock nut to align the pin with the washer but once you got that you’re set. Outer lock nut goes on and then you can put your locking hubs back on. Don’t forget the inner and outer lock rings (been there, don’t that)
7. Now all that’s left is the caliper. New pads would be a good idea as everything else is basically new.
It's the best I can do.
The Mule said:
Just a joke..Good luck.
Piece of advice - pick up a service manual. They are worth their weight in gold. Also, take a bunch of digital pics as you go.
readymix
3/4 ton status
BTW. Dont remove the rotor from the hub. It needs to be attached to get it on the brake lathe.
