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i finally found it!!

blazin_blazer

blazin_blazer

1/2 ton status
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Aug 2, 2005
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central arkansas
i've found a mid 80's k30 w/d60f....for $850....& i have a couple of questions the deal includes the d60 front end, a 14ff, sm465/np205..and the driveshafts & the pedals and anything else i want off of it..the guy wants the bed,cab and...possibly frame??? if i can get the whole thing minus the flatbed/cab i will do that, but if not.. should i get the hydro brake cylinder also?
does it work well with the larger tires?

with a standard & hydro brakes, i could run a more radical cam w/o worrying about motor vacuum, or is that brake setup a hassel?

if i can get the frame w/ the deal i plan on a crewcab w/ a swb bed....will this fit on a regular lwb frame w/o any headache... i know i will have to juggle the cab mounts, but after the cc is on a regular lwb frame, is it just a matter of mounting the swb bed or will i have to shorten the bed to fit the lwb wheelbase?
 
The hydro might make it necessary to run a second ps pump if you ever go hydro assist. I gather you plan to fling mud by your local, so I'll not harass you about the cam choice...

Might CC 'B to C' about the frame thing, he has experince with different frames, but I'm sure someone will chime in. :D

Sounds like a good basket of parts either way!
 
yes this will become the family mud/gravel road runner w/ its fair share of mall/campground cruiseing, and i just love the sound of a lumpy cam!
 
come on, brethern....should i grab the hydro brake mastercylinder, or is it a headache....the bolts will already be pulled to get the pedals,but is it worth the effort to put it on the k5 or the cc cab?...i doubt i ever do a hydro steer, i plan on a crossover ..eventually

and if i can get the frame in the dealeo, is a swb bed a bolt on behind a cc on a lwb frame or will it need to be shortened? if i go this route, the k5 will be leaving, it has a blown motor now anyway!
 
blazin_blazer said:
come on, brethern....should i grab the hydro brake mastercylinder, or is it a headache....the bolts will already be pulled to get the pedals,but is it worth the effort to put it on the k5 or the cc cab?...i doubt i ever do a hydro steer, i plan on a crossover ..eventually

and if i can get the frame in the dealeo, is a swb bed a bolt on behind a cc on a lwb frame or will it need to be shortened? if i go this route, the k5 will be leaving, it has a blown motor now anyway!
Click to expand...


Yes get the booster and the master cylinder. I run hydro boost brakes with hydro assist on my K5. It works way better than vacuum assist.

Dik
 
It is a cab and chassis truck? If so the rear 14bff is gonna be real narrow and useless unless you keep it a dually or put the 14bff under a jeep
 
it is a srw truck w/flatbed, the guy wants the cab and bed to go on a 2wd .....the front is srw version, the rear end has single wheel and doesn't have the long studs like a drw, but it did look narrow, but i thought it was optical illusion because the bed is @ 10'' wider than cab on both sides(when i eyed across the rear tire it looked only 2-3'' narrower than front tire and i believe that is about right)....is the srw a narrower rear end if it was ordered w/o bed or what your talking about is for drw trucks only?
 
blazin_blazer said:
it is a srw truck w/flatbed, the guy wants the cab and bed to go on a 2wd .....the front is srw version, the rear end has single wheel and doesn't have the long studs like a drw, but it did look narrow, but i thought it was optical illusion because the bed is @ 10'' wider than cab on both sides(when i eyed across the rear tire it looked only 2-3'' narrower than front tire and i believe that is about right)....is the srw a narrower rear end if it was ordered w/o bed or what your talking about is for drw trucks only?
Click to expand...
cab and chassis drw 14bffs are like ~63" wms-wms
srw 14bffs are ~67" wms-wms
vans 14bffs are ~70 " wms-wms
for comparaison the front srw dana 60 should be ~70"
Those are rough numbers, I know I may be a little off
 
The difference in width is due to the hubs. You can swap out the hubs for ones from a van & it'll be a van 14 bolt.


I think........

Later,
Buddy
 
a shortbed will not bolt onto a regular cab longbed frame behind a crew cab. you will need to shorten the bed even more. you will also need to do sheetmetal work to the back of the crewcab or run a modified bodylift to get it to sit right on the regular cab frame.
 
Not sure if this is on point anymore, but FWIW I have a vacuum booster with 1 tons w/ disc all the way around and I can stop very very well without modification whatsoever to the 1/2 ton booster, master and propotioning valve. Although I've read plenty of others with the opposite. Is it luck, I think not. Proper bleeding and fully functioning equipment to start with. So no, I do not think it is necessary to switch to hydro boost if you plan on going hydro assist. The pump cannot handle both (all three) IMO.
 
I will never run another big tire'ed truck without Hydro-boost. There is no comparison between Hydro-boost and Vaccum boost. I run Hydro-boost, PS, and Ram assist with absolutly no issues whatsoever. I am running an 1 3/4" ram with a drilled and tapped box fed by a stock unmodified factory 89' V3500 pump with the factory reservior.
 
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