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I got some rusted Bleed Screws

Disciples Performance

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Kelowna BC, Canada
Hey guys i got some rusted bleed screws on my buds 78 chevy 4x4 how on earth can u get them out when they are rusted in and starting to round i know lots of WD40 and such ive tried flare nut wrench ive tried normal wrenches so if someone can give me a idea or so :D

thanks

Nick
 
If the bleeder is already hammered go buy new ones and clamp a pair of vice grips on it and carefully try to unscrew it. Worst case you can pull the calipers and go buy new ones.

Ira
 
I've ended up buying new calipers a couple of times. They just wouldn't come out. Heated, vise grips, tore it to schreds. Lucky for us, calipers for our trucks can be found for very cheap..
 
New calipers are about $15 and are a LOT easier to replace than the bleeder screws. So it's kind of a judgement call, save $14 and spend a lot more time, or spend the money & get done in 1/2 hour.
 
That is if you can find a single bleeder screw for sale. Last time I tried Napa had a 4 pack for like 7$ or half what a discount parts place gets for a caliper.
 
awesome thanks guys ya unfortuantley its not up to me about buying calipers or else i would for sure lol but i wonder if Lordco will carry that PB catalyst stuff cause it sounds pretty intense, but im gonna also try to talk my bud into buying new ones that way atleast you know they are new and ready to go
 
PB blaster is not hard to find atleast here in the states. Most discount stores even have it. Walmart, Kmart and most chain auto stores. I would be surprised if you can't find it easily up their. www.blasterproducts.com
 
heat, my friens always says if youdont have a tourch you shouldent touch brakes.

heat the sucker up, then try it, a propane touch isent as good but it helps try that!
 
Vice Grips work if?

Disciples Performance said:
Hey guys i got some rusted bleed screws on my buds 78 chevy 4x4 how on earth can u get them out when they are rusted in and starting to round i know lots of WD40 and such ive tried flare nut wrench ive tried normal wrenches so if someone can give me a idea or so :D

thanks

Nick

Having removed many on Old Iron befor I find if they don't want to come out with a wrench the first time I tap the top of them with a hammer to jar them once. Then I put the Vice Grips on tight enoungh that they allmost crush and use a cresent wrench to turn them carefully. I bite them with the nose strait on so it is a flat bite instead of side ways. A little heat from a propane torch helps then cool it with WD-40 next it will suck some up in the threads and shrink the fitting again. Then toss the old one and replace it. Mark H.
 
got a welder??

I've welded or brazed larger nuts onto the hex portion of the bleeders ,so I could use a larger wrench to get them out..

But I've also learned 15.99 is cheap peace of mind--if the bleeders are that rusted,the calipers could possibly be ready to seize too,especially if your replacing the pads,and pushing them back in!..also,if the bleeders break off,most stores wont give you the core credit,which was 7 bucks in my case..half the cost of the caliper..:doah: ..I broke one off,then FUBARED the caliper trying to drill it out..luckily I had another junk one to trade in instead!..:crazy:
 
I second the Craftsman Bolt Out suggestion. I have used these for the exact same purpose and they worked great. Good suggestions on the calipers though, if the bleeders are that rusted would be fairly cheap insurance to do the entire caliper and have some piece of mind. I used the Bolt Out on a friend's 85 Cavalier that he wanted to put as little money in as possible-zipped them right out. I was very impressed with how well they worked.
 
pb blaster is amazing. i got my stock 10b steering arm off in 15 solid hits in the sweet spot with a normal hammer. anybody who has tried getn the arm off knows how much of a b*tch it is
 
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