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I gotsta git me a new drive shaft. Any ideas on where I might find one?
- Thread starter 78 GMC Jimmy
- Start date
Keep in mind that unless you find a shaft that someone already modified for a truck just like yours and with the same drivetrain and amount of lift you will absolutely need to get any shaft that you find used shortened and balanced - you have a modified truck and that means modified parts too.
Paying someone to come to your place plus purchasing a driveshaft and modifying it will cost you more than the $400.00 bucks you were initially trying to avoid.
Ya might want to just take your shaft to the shop and have them retube it.
BTW, in the pics it also looks as if your rear driveshaft yoke has some damage near the cup retaining loop - have the shop look at it, they are fairly cheap.
And the front u-joint and related parts appear to be 1350 in size but measurements can’t hurt.
Sounds like you just need to take your shaft in and not have to deal with any search and guess work or wasted money.
BTW, nice truck !
Paying someone to come to your place plus purchasing a driveshaft and modifying it will cost you more than the $400.00 bucks you were initially trying to avoid.
Ya might want to just take your shaft to the shop and have them retube it.
BTW, in the pics it also looks as if your rear driveshaft yoke has some damage near the cup retaining loop - have the shop look at it, they are fairly cheap.
And the front u-joint and related parts appear to be 1350 in size but measurements can’t hurt.
Sounds like you just need to take your shaft in and not have to deal with any search and guess work or wasted money.
BTW, nice truck !
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Tom woods looks like $329 with free shipping over 200. And two days to ship to WA.
Might be worth it.
Might be worth it.
Couldn’t it also be a 203 case? I can’t see far enough over to see the idler shaft cover. Either way I agree that for the mix of parts you have Tom woods or a local shop building you one is your best bet.
Definitely a 205 - the rear output housings are also indicators.
Good eye, 203 has the longer extension housing. Definitely a 205, disregard me, back to regularly scheduled programming.
From your pics, it's clear that at some point the front U-joint broke and the driveshaft hit the floor. The rear yoke is damaged and may be next to impossible to swap the U-joint in, the tube is junk and there may be additional damage to the front yoke. It seems like starting over is the way to go. If that's the case, it's time to look at your options. You seem to have enough lift that driveline vibrations could be an issue. That makes the following suggestion interesting:
If you can score one of these and matching flange from a junkyard, it will just need shortening. Here's a thread about it: https://ck5.com/forums/threads/ford-super-duty-drive-shaft.336467/
You would need to shim the rear axle to bring the pinion up. Before spending money on anything, it's probably a good idea to measure the angles of the T-case output and the axle pinion anyway.
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
So there is no chance of getting one from a junk yard or eBay or something? A direct fit without having to send it to a shop to be modified?
Sure, grab your tape measure and go: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2847453022...DCZQ3B&hash=item424c2480d9:g:hk0AAMXQlrxRdNn9
We can't tell you what will fit because you haven't even provided the measurement. Or do this:
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
These are for sale in may area:
$40 ea from 89-97 chevy 4x4 with a/t tran if it matters both were driver drops
They look like mine. No good?
$40 ea from 89-97 chevy 4x4 with a/t tran if it matters both were driver drops
They look like mine. No good?
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
Check:
This is where a new driveshaft like I posted above starts to make sense. A new slip joint is like $140, you'll need 2 $30 U-joints (because orange box Spicer is the only good one), then a shop to weld and balance, which is likely over $100. So that's $300 and you still have used tube and a used yoke, where Tatton is getting $275 for the entire thing brand new (including the U-joints).
- Extended/collapsed length.
- U-joint size. Sellers may not know, so calipers are the best bet. You need the cap diameter and the length.
- Slip joint - these are supposed to be smooth and tight. Often the plastic is gone, so there's play in the slip joint, which causes driveline vibration you can't get rid of.
This is where a new driveshaft like I posted above starts to make sense. A new slip joint is like $140, you'll need 2 $30 U-joints (because orange box Spicer is the only good one), then a shop to weld and balance, which is likely over $100. So that's $300 and you still have used tube and a used yoke, where Tatton is getting $275 for the entire thing brand new (including the U-joints).
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Your blazer could not have had a 14bff from the factory, it is also lifted and you don’t know how much. Therefore there is no “factory” shaft that will be just right. You need to measure yours and measure the slip distance and then compare to ones that are for sale and see if they will fit. Keep in mind that because the length is right you still may have to swap u joints or use a conversion joint. Also take into account how much slip you have, too much will cause the shaft to bottom out and too little will cause the shaft to pull apart.
These are the measurements you'll need. Here's a reference telling about the 1310, 1330, etc.: http://driveshaftspecialist.com/HTML Measure/UJ ID Guide.html
idk what those are but they look like front drive shafts
To add to the concern if they are front GM IFS shafts be aware that they will have minimum slip travel as the front differential and T-case are fixed positions in the GMT400’s and up trucks and the shaft does not need to compress or extend except when being installed or removed.
In other words bad choices for a rear shaft application.
