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I need some tailgate help please!!

83kayfive

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Well I'm 18 years old I own a beautiful 1983 k5 blazer that ive owned for 2 years now and Ive had nothing but troubles with the big girl. One thing that I can't wrap my mind over is that the tail gate window is stuck down and I cannot get it up ... Everything is behind the glass I've got power to the motor it has the sound of it running but will not go up I think it has to be a stripped cable... But how do I get to anything with the glass stuck down!? Help would be much appreciated !! :dunno::dunno:
 
You need to take off the inner panel and try and see if anything is off. Try and slam the tailgate good to makensure it's fully closed. It has a safety switch that won't let it roll up with the gate open. You can push that tab down inside the gate with the back cover off. Maybe a switch as well. Contacts get dirty or broken. Have you tried the dash switch as well. The key switch gets corroded and may need cleaning to get it to work properly.
 
I grew up in the back of many suburbans with the electric tailgate and remember even brand spanking new those crappy windows being slow to roll up. Now put a couple of hundred thousand miles on them and they barely work. Poor design all around. I finally just gutted the electric and went manual.

But you have to start with taking off the cover and investigating. It could be a number of problems.

Good luck.
 
Dont slam it too hard,or you'll be searching for another window glass...when the channel felts get old and dissapear,it lets the glass rattle around,get hung up,and also BREAK when you slam the tailgate in disgust!...take it from a guy who had to resort to using plexiglass for a temporary window on one of my K5's...I liked the lift gate on the '72 a lot better than the stupid electric tailgate window--at least you knew it would always open and shut when you needed it too...
 
I had nothing but problems with mine, after eliminating all the redundant plugs, swapping out for a refurbished motor, new cable, new window switch, greasing up the window regulator, and bypassing the safety switch it finally works like it should.

From what you describe it does sound like a bad cable or it may have came loose at the motor, you may have to bypass the safety switch and with the tailgate down have a friend gently pull on the window while you run the cab switch to roll it up.

Don't go too far out with the window because there isn't anything supporting it and it may damage the tracks, those windows are heavy.

If by then you were able to roll out the window, disconnect the cable from the motor (assuming the glass isn't in the way), and use a cordless drill and slowly run the window in or out with someone supporting the glass, that will give you an idea if the cable is stripped at either the regulator or the motor.

However that is only one thing out of many that can add up to cause problems, those motors are pretty weak and the contacts in the cab switch tend to arc and deteriorate, same goes with the safety switch.
 
From what you describe it does sound like a bad cable or it may have came loose at the motor, you may have to bypass the safety switch and with the tailgate down have a friend gently pull on the window while you run the cab switch to roll it up.

This. If you can get the glass back into place this way, you'll have a lot easier of a time getting to the motor, regulator and other guts.
 
Here is a thread to help you out.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=296615

Get the inner cover off, and you can get in there to disconnect the window from the lift arms, and slowly pull it out towards you and then you can get to the guts of the regulator and start diagnosing your problem. Its just 4 bolts to disconnect it. FYI...support the glass as you pull it out or you will most likely break it.

rearwindowbolts_zps1694c09b.jpg
 
First, if you are planning on keeping the truck, and it seems like you are, a membership here is priceless.

Second, I would say go manual. I have the manual glass in my 84 and while I do have to get out to roll the window down I don't have any issues even with the tracks and channels worn out. I'm a fan of simple, especially in a beater rig. I've swapped to manual windows in the doors too.

I'm hoping to swap to a pickup tailgate soon. Eliminate the roll up window all together and just pin a piece of lexan in place when the hard top is on, which is only in the winter. The top'll be coming off soon and the window will be down all the time anyways, no reason to have to fight the heavy gate if I don't have to! :waytogo:
 
You'll likely get more MPG without having that 200 lb ingot tailgate on it too!..

I've seen more than one K5 with a truck tailgate and a truck cap lift hatch adapted to the fiberglass roof so the truck could still be locked up and weather tight...I dont know why GM went with the window in the tail gate,its a crappy setup in my opinion...It's shame they didn't have a barn door option like the Suburbans available..
 
Thanks

Thank you guys for helping out i will try some of these options tomorrow but how can i convert my electric to manual tail gate that sounds like the best option ? Could i just order all the parts through lmc truck or do i have to actually go find a manual tail gate cause thats close to impossible. ( ive tried )
 
I've got to say I rebuilt my new tailgate shell on my restored K5 with new tracks/guides, inside/outside wipes, and the original motor,cable, regulator. I used the original switches, both the key switch and latch lockout switch. My tailgate works perfectly and the glass goes up and down quickly. One has to take the time to set up the components correctly and the guides need to be in good condition. This applies to both manual and electric. If your tailgate glass sash has gotten rotten and swollen it will catch on the electric regulator when you are putting the window up. Bad components is what causes the problems with the electric tailgates.

To operate the window with the tailgate open and the latch lockout switch intact is to close the driver's side tailgate latch by hand. This will allow the current to flow. Just remember to pull the inside handle to open the latch before trying to close the tailgate. With the latch closed you can use the key switch in the tailgate to run the motor. This will allow you to watch what happens (with metal inspection panel off) if you are working by yourself.

As far as the in-cab tailgate switch goes, it is easily disassembled and the contacts cleaned or lightly filed to smooth them out for better contact. I did this and the switch works perfectly.

The motor regulator has a transmission gear on it and sometimes the get stripped. This might be the case with the OP problems.
 
Thank you guys for helping out i will try some of these options tomorrow but how can i convert my electric to manual tail gate that sounds like the best option ? Could i just order all the parts through lmc truck or do i have to actually go find a manual tail gate cause thats close to impossible. ( ive tried )

lmc doesnt carry the handle anymore but you can get i on ebay
 

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