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I screwed up..

Cntymnty77

Cntymnty77

1/2 ton status
Joined
Sep 6, 2016
Posts
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Location
Missouri
I got this transjack adapter to change out this flex plate and after getting everything together today, I noticed it’s not going to work with my jack (should have checked before I ordered it).. I really don’t want to drill a hole in that 1” slug but it looks like that will be the only way I’ll be able to get it to work.

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That "cup" doesn't just lift out of the base it sits on ?...hmmm..
My floor jack is that way,you just lift off that cup thing and drop in the adapter ,and its some 30 year old China special..
I thought pretty much all floor jacks were set up that way..

Wonder if Harbor Freight sells the adapter that will actually fit & work with their floor jacks ?..
 
I have a trans adapter like that and it works good. The tilt screw never worked on mine though, once the weight is on it you don't have enough leverage to turn it (not a show stopper).

Maybe just borrow a jack for the job? If you do buy a jack, I'd buy a big 3 ton unit (MAW make it worth the money spent).
 
I’d buy a bigger floor jack.

1) you want 2 eventually

2) one of the heavy iron wheel floor jacks are nice. I have the Pittsburgh jack you pictured and a bigger one. Works great
 
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I did the same thing a few years ago i ended up making an adapter to replace the jackpad out of a piece of 2x2 tubing and then bolted trans adapter to that.

I haven't been able to find a reasonable priced jack with the drop in pad or i would have bought a new jack.
 
How much was the trans jack? It would work with my jack, maybe I could buy it from you.
 
diesel4me said:
That "cup" doesn't just lift out of the base it sits on ?...hmmm..
My floor jack is that way,you just lift off that cup thing and drop in the adapter ,and its some 30 year old China special..
I thought pretty much all floor jacks were set up that way..

Wonder if Harbor Freight sells the adapter that will actually fit & work with their floor jacks ?..
Click to expand...
I thought the same thing. I couldn’t find one on their website. I thought that was odd. They have trans jacks but no adapters.
GWeakland620 said:
How much was the trans jack? It would work with my jack, maybe I could buy it from you.
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I think it was 40ish on Amazon. They had some for 30 something on there but mine was prime so I could get it quicker and not be able to use. Haha!
 
that little 1.5 ton AL jack has no business lifting your truck. It's probably fine for your trans (if it reaches) but you need a to get a steel 3 or 4 ton.
 
I was wondering about the stability since it doesn't have any spread of the wheels.
 
skunked said:
that little 1.5 ton AL jack has no business lifting your truck. It's probably fine for your trans (if it reaches) but you need a to get a steel 3 or 4 ton.
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I got a good deal on it and couldn’t pass it up.
6872xtc said:
I was wondering about the stability since it doesn't have any spread of the wheels.
Click to expand...
I was worried about the same thing but that’s all I’ve got for now. I also thought about running two of my heavy ratchet straps around the frame rails (front of trans and rear of tcase) to support some of the weight when I replace this flexplate.
 
Cntymnty77 said:
I was worried about the same thing but that’s all I’ve got for now. I also thought about running two of my heavy ratchet straps around the frame rails (front of trans and rear of tcase) to support some of the weight when I replace this flexplate.
Click to expand...

Been there done that. Works decent for dropping stuff but hard to pull it back
 
blazinzuk said:
Been there done that. Works decent for dropping stuff but hard to pull it back
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I’m going to try the 6” bolt trick as well. 3/8”x 6” with 1” of thread to replace the bolts from the trans to the motor to try and keep the alignment as close as possible and will hopefully help with sliding it too. But with my luck, it will probably bind it up and make it even harder to move. I hope between the floor jack, jack stands and the ratchet straps, it will go smoothly. At this point I may just get creative with a spare 1x8 I have for the trans jack.
 
I have that trans adapter also and found it to be unstable on my jack. The hole on my jack was too big.
 
Get the bigger 3 ton orange painted jack from the same place you got that one. the pad lifts out and it will fit that trans jack. If its sloppy you can sleave it easy with a piece of tube.

It will also fit and lift This http://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17760&cat=250&page=2

which is the best invention ever made for a single person shop
 
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Cntymnty77 said:
I’m going to try the 6” bolt trick as well. 3/8”x 6” with 1” of thread to replace the bolts from the trans to the motor to try and keep the alignment as close as possible and will hopefully help with sliding it too. But with my luck, it will probably bind it up and make it even harder to move. I hope between the floor jack, jack stands and the ratchet straps, it will go smoothly. At this point I may just get creative with a spare 1x8 I have for the trans jack.
Click to expand...

Just be careful,and remember even grade 8 bolts 3/8" thick can bend if you let the transmission "hang" from them,you want them to just be guides,not weight bearing--letting it sag or shoving it around with too much force could crack the ears off the bell housing....so a floor jack that adapter will work with is pretty much a must..

My transmission adapter also wasn't able to be "tilted" simply by turning the knobs on the threaded "tilter" device,I had to push up on the transfer case or transmission a little to get the load off the thing ,then I could turn the knob--not a fun job alone lying on your back,but it was the only way I could get it to tilt ...

Shoving the transmission back in was the hardest part,I had to lie under the truck with my head touching the rear diff and use both legs to try and shove it forward evenly,while grabbing the frame rails with my hands--after I got it close to the engine I had to resort to kicking it to get it all the was flush with the engine block & dowel pins....and I had to keep adjusting the "tilt" and height on the jack to keep the transmission and transfer case from going crooked..

There are other ways of doing it too--if you have an engine crane and a removeable "tunnel" you can use the crane to hold the tranny up and use a ratchet strap or come-a-long to pull it back far enough to get at the flex plate bolts..the legs on the crane are right in the way underneath though,to make it more difficult...neither way is "easy"unfortunately..
 
I used to use one fabricated from 3/4 plywood and 2x2 square glued and screwed to bottom big enough to accept the cup on the jack. Round peg in square hole. Framed the outside on top with some trim pieces so the pan stays on. Add a ratchet strap and bingo trans jack.
 
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