I think I finished my K30 Crewcab...well almost anyway

[thatK30guy]

Bobby, can you check your RPO sticker in the glove box to verify the wheelbase of this truck?
If its not there or listed, can you measure the wheelbase then? I just want to know what your truck is as I'm learning something new everyday and would like to find out.

 

[rjfguitar]

I do not have the RPO list for the truck but I am nearly positive that it's not a cab and chassis truck. Here is a pic of the rear spring pack.

 

[rjfguitar]

you should stay away from blocks of any kind especially with the loads you put on your truck.

Why not just get replacement springs from and rear? Your springs are some 26 years old. They have servered their usefull and safe time and should just be replaced.

Actually, I'd have to respectively disagree. If you go buy a brand new Cummins Dodge 3500 off the lot today that is a 4wd, there will be a factory 4" block in the rear. My Dodge has a 4" block in the back and has a much higher rated towing capacity than my crew cab. If Dodge (and Ford too, as they use blocks too) can get through the safety regulations and install a rather tall 4" block from the factory.....I think I'll be alright with a 2" block in the back.

The springs on the truck seem to be in good shape actually.

 

[Chevy305]

Actually, I'd have to respectively disagree. If you go buy a brand new Cummins Dodge 3500 off the lot today that is a 4wd, there will be a factory 4" block in the rear. My Dodge has a 4" block in the back and has a much higher rated towing capacity than my crew cab. If Dodge (and Ford too, as they use blocks too) can get through the safety regulations and install a rather tall 4" block from the factory.....I think I'll be alright with a 2" block in the back.

The springs on the truck seem to be in good shape actually.

Hmmm...

I was not aware of that. How do they prevent axel wrap then?

I had 4" blocks on the rear of my truck when I first got it with the original springs. The blocks caused axel wrap and both of the original springs from '85 broke while stopping short at a stop light. And my truck is pretty light in comparison being a reg cab shortbed stepside. When the springs broke the truck had nothing in the bed. I rarely haul big loads too.

I have been burnt by blocks and original springs before so I guess I'm just trying to look out for ya

 

[gmc4cw]

I do not have the RPO list for the truck but I am nearly positive that it's not a cab and chassis truck. Here is a pic of the rear spring pack.

you have a cab and chassis truck. The backing plate on your brakes is a clue. Your rear leaf packs are so thick that they probably do not flex enough to tear an airbag.

 

[thatK30guy]

you have a cab and chassis truck. The backing plate on your brakes is a clue. Your rear leaf packs are so thick that they probably do not flex enough to tear an airbag.

Backing plates are standard C/K30/3500 issues. They don't make a cab-and-chassis or crew cab any different. All 1 ton brakes are 13x3.5 shoes, so the backing plates all are the same thing. They are different than the 3/4 tons though. Nothing about brakes determine the CC, C&C, standard cab, etc. Nothing.

The spring pack also looks standard 1 ton issue springs, too. I've seen spring packs almost twice as thick as Bobby's and they were under a crew cab SRW with a fleetside bed on it. Spring packs were customer options for their choice of GVWR on the truck.

The only positive way to identify Bobby's truck as a CC or C&C, is to measure the wheelbase. Just measure from the center of the hub to hub, front to back.

Also, since Bobby's truck is a SRW, his rear 14FF is no different than my '85 K30 SRW stand. cab longbed with the 131.5" wheelbase.

 

[rjfguitar]

Hmmm...

I was not aware of that. How do they prevent axel wrap then?

I had 4" blocks on the rear of my truck when I first got it with the original springs. The blocks caused axel wrap and both of the original springs from '85 broke while stopping short at a stop light. And my truck is pretty light in comparison being a reg cab shortbed stepside. When the springs broke the truck had nothing in the bed. I rarely haul big loads too.

I have been burnt by blocks and original springs before so I guess I'm just trying to look out for ya

Heavy heavy springs and a good sway bar I guess. Actually, the Dodges probably have the stoutest and least resistant to wrap rear suspension out of the big three, and basically have the tallest trucks....beats me.

 

[rjfguitar]

Wheelbase measures out to about 164.5-165".

 

[Goose]

How about adding the stock overload spring. My last K30 had it, and I've seen them in the salvage yards. There are some additional pieces riveted to the frame for the ends of the springs to ride on, and the extra leaf is above the normal ones.

Kinda hard to explain, but simple design.

 

[Jishory]

what about getting bigger tires?

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

air lift airbags have them on our work/farm truck and love em. articulation isnt a problem, they take a beating and if you do it right you could have an aircompressor on your truck

 

[thatK30guy]

Wheelbase measures out to about 164.5-165".

Yep, thats a standard crew cab wheelbase at 164.5". Your rig is NOT a cab-and-chassis.

 

[rjfguitar]

what about getting bigger tires?

I already put bigger tires on it, 265/75R/16's.

 

[rjfguitar]

air lift airbags have them on our work/farm truck and love em. articulation isnt a problem, they take a beating and if you do it right you could have an aircompressor on your truck

Uh....happen to notice a 4 piston compressor in the back of the truck???? I don't think a 12v compressor will run my 1" impact gun, will it? I'm going to look into the bags that you fill with a "non onboard" compressor. That way, I can avoid an expensive setup that comes with a dinky 12v toy compressor that I don't need, and all the lines that need running.

 

[dhcomp]

You ever get a good pic of the grill setup?

Trying to suggest ryoken go with a newer logo on the blacked out grill, and can't find a pic of yours.