70BlazerX2
1/2 ton status
You better put some spacers between the spring pad and the axle housing or they will shear those bolts off. The spring pack you have is thicker than the stock 73-91 spring. If you do this you will be ok.
CK5
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I think my truck is trying to tell me something
- Thread starter Yukon Jack
- Start date
Yukon Jack
1/2 ton status
Not sure I'm understanding what you are recommending - where do you think spacers need to be placed? Did you mean to say my springs are not as wide as later model springs and I need a spacer on each side of the spring so they are tight against the u-bolts/studs?
The spring plates aren't supposed to bottom on the diff..... I think that was what 70blazer was saying, so no spacers needed...... Yukon - have you concidered that the brake master cylinder will need to be swapped out for a disk brake one? Drums and disks have very different pressure/volume needs.
Yukon Jack
1/2 ton status
I'm running a hydroboost system from a 1 ton so all I need to do is add a proportioning valve and I should be good to go, er, I guess I mean stop.
mudboggink5
1/2 ton status
Whats the torque spec on these u bolts. I always just tightended the sh!t out of them. Thanks
Yukon Jack
1/2 ton status
From what I can find on this site it is 140 ft/lbs for the u-bolts and I assume the same for the bolts.
mudboggink5
1/2 ton status
Sounds good to me. I'm going over my 60 tommorow. i started getting the death wobble back. i just want to rule out the U Bolts. Very clean truck by the way.
Yukon Jack
1/2 ton status
Have had very little time lately to work on my truck - seems every time I got out to work on it I was making very little progress due to some brake line fitting issues. But, got the brake lines done yesterday and hooked the steering up and went for a test drive. The passenger side front disk is grabbing but the driver side is only contacting the rotor in two small areas. I only drove for about 1 mile though so I think driving some more and breaking up the surface rust should get that straightened out. Still need to bleed the brakes a little more I think as the pedal pressure varied a bit.
Regarding the steering, the 69 had a closed knuckle axle and when I lifted it I used an adjustable drop drag link for steering correction - it is the only option for that axle. I had planned to use it for the Dana 60 for the time being but to have full steering the thread engagement of the drag ling ends is below the minimal recommended engagement. Right now I've got it with enough thread engagement but that is preventing full turning.
Due to this I've been looking at cross-over steering options. I'm looking at kits from Sky Manufacturing, ORD and Ballistic Fab. The Sky kit is $375 and I would also replace the king pin springs and bushing for like $20 for a total price of $400. The ORD kit would be $440 plus the king pin parts of $20. I like Ballistic Fab's setup as it deletes the king pin spring.
From what I can tell, the hi-steer setup from Ballistic Fab comes in lower than the high steer kit from ORD and isn't that much more than the crossover kit from ORD. Ballistic Fab's 2 arm kit is $280, then the draglink and tierod plus ends kit is $240, add a pitman arm already reamed out from another vendor for about $70 to $85 and that brings the whole price for the Ballistic Fab hi-steer to $590 to $605. Assuming I'm not missing something - that beats the heck out of ORD's $800 hi-steer kit plus you've deleted the king pin springs and isn't much above the $460 for ORD's crossover and new king pin parts.
I can't say I need hi-steer for the use of my truck but Ballistic Fab's hi-steer setup ends up being about $130 more than ORD's standard $440 crossover kit and allows me to delete the king pin springs.
At this point I'm leaning towards Ballistic Fab's setup even though it is overkill for my needs.
Regarding the steering, the 69 had a closed knuckle axle and when I lifted it I used an adjustable drop drag link for steering correction - it is the only option for that axle. I had planned to use it for the Dana 60 for the time being but to have full steering the thread engagement of the drag ling ends is below the minimal recommended engagement. Right now I've got it with enough thread engagement but that is preventing full turning.
Due to this I've been looking at cross-over steering options. I'm looking at kits from Sky Manufacturing, ORD and Ballistic Fab. The Sky kit is $375 and I would also replace the king pin springs and bushing for like $20 for a total price of $400. The ORD kit would be $440 plus the king pin parts of $20. I like Ballistic Fab's setup as it deletes the king pin spring.
From what I can tell, the hi-steer setup from Ballistic Fab comes in lower than the high steer kit from ORD and isn't that much more than the crossover kit from ORD. Ballistic Fab's 2 arm kit is $280, then the draglink and tierod plus ends kit is $240, add a pitman arm already reamed out from another vendor for about $70 to $85 and that brings the whole price for the Ballistic Fab hi-steer to $590 to $605. Assuming I'm not missing something - that beats the heck out of ORD's $800 hi-steer kit plus you've deleted the king pin springs and isn't much above the $460 for ORD's crossover and new king pin parts.
I can't say I need hi-steer for the use of my truck but Ballistic Fab's hi-steer setup ends up being about $130 more than ORD's standard $440 crossover kit and allows me to delete the king pin springs.
At this point I'm leaning towards Ballistic Fab's setup even though it is overkill for my needs.
LUBA
1/2 ton status
What is the benefit of eliminating the kingpin spring?
Yukon Jack
1/2 ton status
Eliminating the springs is supposed to eliminate death wobble.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I was really worried about that when I did mine, but it's been great for almost a year now, although my tire size isn't that large (35's). I don't even have washer in there and I've been known to fly around pretty fast in it. I think it has alot to do with tire size and specifically radial vs bias ply.
I do like the sky arms being a solid billet of steel.
mudboggink5
1/2 ton status
I ended up buying those steering arms from ballistic fab in order to get rid of the wobble. I have not installed them yet. but i heard lots of good things about them. I'm gonna get those arms on by next sat. I'll let you know how they work out. I would go with the ballistic stuff.
brandoneh
1/2 ton status
How did they work out? Eliminate the Death Wobble?
mudboggink5
1/2 ton status
When the arms first went on, everything felt good, and then the wobble came back, so I tightened those set screws, and went away again. I'm still thinking about getting a trac bar. The arms did help. I also run unbalanced h1's, and bias TSL"S. I dont think that helps the situation.
