CK5
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I want to see some Suburbans/show us your burbs (merged)

A lot of great pics in here. Here's mine.
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First we have the '82, 6.2 diesel, 33's and a small lift.


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And the '99 I just picked up on Friday.


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I have since blacked out the grill, way to shiny for me.

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New pics 3-13-2014:

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that thing has awesome flex:eek1: is there a build thread? for some reason I always thought you had a k5 not a burb
 
I mounted the rear cab lights, because the time I was following it back to Missouri to turn in the rig for a company I drove for, my brother was driving it, he'd get far enough out in front of me and the taillights just didn't do much for illumination, I also have some under the light bar and two little side fender lights similar to what I believe Saab does.

The flex, I dunno, just 4" Rough Country springs, lower first leaf removed, sway bar disconnects, the rear are stock, 4" blocks, I did add a couple of leaves from another pack to gain some height from the old saggy squat it had, in doing this, I cut the little wrap around tab that keeps them from fanning out.

That sway bar removal alone gives a TON of extra movement though.

it's been stuck in Indiana, for the past 2 and a half years because of a random fuel injector signal pulse failure. I haven't pinpointed the exact problem just yet, not living there any longer so I have limited time on working on it when I do, I tried to drive it home a couple of years back now when I thought I had fixed it, but it quit working in St. Louis, MO. So it's been sitting there ever since. One other time we drove back there last year, I bought a complete new (not reman'd) distributor, but that still didn't even cure the problem. So I have pretty well determined it has to be a wiring harness issue. Trying to work out details on either getting it hauled back here to Washington now, where I live, or getting back there myself to attempt to fix it again.

The tow truck one was when the alternator decided to have it's rear bearing fail and pretty much catch fire, leaving me sitting on the side of the free.


 
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slap a borrowed carb, a tbi to carb adaptor plate, and a used large cap dizzy on it for the trip home. then figure out the tbi when it gets home.
 
slap a borrowed carb, a tbi to carb adaptor plate, and a used large cap dizzy on it for the trip home. then figure out the tbi when it gets home.

Just some quick searching on the net for parts to do that, unless I can just borrow all of the components required for something like that, I'll just fix the problem. I really don't have much left in replacing before I find the issue, most of the things that are supposed to be tied to that control have been replaced already.

The cost to buy parts for a carb swap, just to drive it here would be pretty close to just getting a new harness or something. I pretty much only have the harness or the actual computer chip as potential culprits, I already swapped out the computer module, but had to reuse the original chip, and the harness is factory to the truck.

From previous reading of people that had similar issues, it seems like it may be the plug that goes into the distributor, even though I have messed with it several times, I could not absolutely be positive it IS the problem, just could not get positive results out of messing with it, but at the same time, every time it usually dies out, I simply mess with something back near the distributor and it'll fire back up again.... for an unspecified, unknown amount of time.

So, wiring harness is going to be swapped this time. :D
 
Didnt dhcomp have the same problem and it turned out to be some wires sorting out on each other behind the dist.
 
Didnt dhcomp have the same problem and it turned out to be some wires sorting out on each other behind the dist.

Was going to chime in.

Mine were always just bad ign modules, but they were burning out cause the insulation had worn off the wires that plug into the ign module, and they were shorting where they were twisted and cracked.

Cut apart, spliced back together with heat shrink butt connectors, and all is well again.

Strip off the factory split loom, inspect wiring, and replace split loom.

They way, you know where you've checked the wiring. Often times, the wires heat up and crack where twisted, even if still inside the split loom, with no exterior damage visible.

Best of luck
 
But with yours, the fried moduel also kills the injectors right?

When the module was bad, yes, the injectors didnt' fire.

Quick module swap, and i'd be good until the wires arc'd again.
 
New Kumho 315/75R16s went on last night. Still need to get rid of the spacers in the front but have to replace the studs because the PO cut them too short when he added the spacers. Contemplating removing the 2" block and maybe a leaf or two in the front.



 

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