What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

ID This PTO Winch?

C

Chris in Idaho

Registered Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2009
Posts
65
Reaction score
0
Location
Coeur d'Alene, ID
I just inherited this old school PTO winch project that I plan to use for collecting firewood. It's a Ramsey but I can't find any model number or any other info anywhere on it. Both ends have the name Ramsey cast into them and one has "264" hand stamped in it. On the inside of the opposite cover the number "685244" is cast in. Neither of these numbers turn up anything on Google...

Does anybody know anything about this winch? Can I get gaskets and replacement parts for it?

Thanks.

ry%3D480


ry%3D480

ry%3D480
 
Well, its a Ramsey.....

They are still in business. At a wild guess, it looks like a 12k.

Here is a link to that one.
http://www.ramsey.com/tnr/hydraulicwormgear_h-600.html

There should be a plate over the shifter, but it looks like its gone.
That long number is probably a part number, you may be able to match it up with the parts list from their site.

Otherwise, you can probably figure out which it is from the measurements.

I don't see the brass main gear. If its missing, I'm not sure its worth the trouble to fix.
You will need the brass gear and worm, and I don't know how much they are.
I'll check around.
 
Thanks for that link! It looks just like that one except for the worm drive which isn't setup for hydraulic. I'll see if the dimensions are the same, I bet I could order gaskets and seals for that one and they'd work.

The tag near the shifter just says to make sure the clutch is fully engaged when running the winch, so no help there. And the brass gear is in there, it was just hiding.

Thanks again.

ry%3D480

ry%3D480
 
All right. You got the gear, so you should be set.
There was a tag on the other housing just like that one that gave all the specs.

Look down through that fill hole above the brass gear and see what the teeth look like. They should be blunt on top with about an 1/8 inch thickness. If they are sharp, then they are badly worn.
From the picture, they look good.

I'm not sure who makes what winch. I have a Braden, who I am sure make their own, and it is a twin to that one.
I'll bet the parts would interchange.

And the mechanical drive and hydraulic drive versions are the same except for possibly the worm shaft end.

Here is the drawing for the shaft drive. The model number is M600 instead of H600.

http://www.ramseypdfs.com/owners_search_pdfs/Dimensional Drawing-M600 Lever.pdf

I have run a worm drive PTO winch for over 30 years, and have made just about every mistake you can make with one and still live, so let me know if I can help.
 
Wow thanks I can tell you're going to be an incredible help with this.

I measured from the front mounting face to the rear mounting face on one of the housings and got + 7.5" which is a good bit smaller than the H/M600 which says 9.5". It pretty much matches the size listed for the H300/H350 except that they don't have a round cover on the end, the cover goes down over the worm gear too.
So it looks like I can't use gaskets from any of those. No big deal gaskets are easy to make...
I sure would like to use a fresh seal on the worm gear input though, I wonder if I just removed the worm gear and the plate it goes through and walked into a bearing shop or something if they could find the right seal?

I think this is going to come together nicely.

My dad just found a really nice looking winch bumper that looks like it will accept this no problem. And my uncle says he thinks he has some extra drive shafts and pillow blocks. I'm getting excited!
 
Fordum,
Can you tell me about PTO's? Is there an advantage to running off of the transmission vs the transfercase? Does it need to be reversible?

I guess if it was on the transfercase you could use the transmission to under drive it but I don't know if that's really an advantage?

Also the brass gear looks great. Nice thick teeth with crisp corners, doesn't really look like any wear at all.
 
Braden is a pretty company from what I hear. I bet you could send them an E-mail and get some answers.
Most of the parts that are not exclusive to an winch such as the gears, are off the shelf items.
Look close at the seal, and it might have numbers that will work.
If not, you can slide the brass gear out, take the 4 bolts out, and pull the worm along with the cap.
Feel the edges of the keyway on the input shaft, especially if its a woodruff key and make sure there are no sharp edges that stick up, and slide the end cap off the shaft.
Tap the seal out, and take the whole thing to a bearing store.
Its best if they have the shaft and housing to measure if there are no numbers on the seal.
I think there is a seal on the main shaft too, but not sure.

As for transmission or transfer case, I have always used the transfer case, but its because I have always had automatic transmissions except for my Jeep.

I assume that a transmission mount will work like the transfer case mount. There is no gear reduction between the two that I know of, but there may be .

You need to be able to shift gears for speed or power and reverse to let down loads or unjam cables.
Also, you can shift the transfer case into neutral so as to use just the winch.

If the mounts on the transmission and transfer case are on different sides of the truck, look for clearance between the PTO and the winch for a shaft.
You might find one side is better than the other.

I had to turn the PTO unit around and mount a hydraulic pump on it on my latest truck because there was no way to get a shaft past the bell housing.

If you ever get really bad stuck in mud, you need to put the transfer case into low range so the tire can dig while you winch out.
A good winch can rip the suspension right out from under a truck if the tires are deep enough.
 
Well, I just got back from the bearing shop where $2.50 got me a brand new input seal. While removing the worm gear cap I noticed another number on the housing that I missed before, it says "246" by the worm gear.

Well, on this page it says a model 200 with 46:1 ratio is a model 246 and is rated for 8,000lbs. I know the 200 series has been around forever and came as an option on a lot of 1960s Jeeps and such so I'm thinking that's what this is. The current one looks a little different on the side cover (mine's round) but I think mine is just an older version.

It doesn't really matter past curiosity at this point because I bought a blank sheet of gasket material for $3.

Thanks again for all the help, I'm sure I'll have more questions in about two minutes...
 
fyi thay make couplers to mate to the input shaft and then mate to a output shaft of a hydro pump motor . this would make this unit a hydro winch.
 
When you bought the seal, what diameter was the shaft?

If its 3/4 inch, its a 200, if its 1 inch its a 400.
 
Freebies are always good.

When you put it together, put grease on everything that moves.
But, make sure that the shifter rod is very well greased. You might want to use Nevr-Seize.
This is the rod that the shifter handle goes on.
Also, the sliding part of the dog clutch where it slides on the main shaft.

This is a common point of trouble. The winch does not get shifted all that often, and the shifter can stick.
If you cannot put it in gear, you can't use it.
I like to leave my winch out of gear just in case. But, during hunting season I often leave it in gear so that I don't have to shift it and its ready when I need it.

If its a long pull, I can take it out of gear and pull the cable to where I need it. But if its a short pull, I can just put the drive in reverse and let it pay the cable out until it reaches.

If you look at the dog clutches, you will see that they have a slight negative taper. In other words, if you put the two halves together about half way and twist, they will tend to move closer together.

This keeps the winch engaged under load. The harder the pull, the tighter the clutch halves go together.

I have never seen it, because the dogs are very thick, and there is not much movement, but supposedly the clutch can wear until you get a positive taper and the clutch will walk out of gear under load.

BTW, the best way to engage the clutch, is to start the drive moving, grab the shifter handle and put a constant pressure in the engage direction.
When the dogs line up, it will slip into gear.
I have more trouble with helpers doing that. They will start snatching on the shifter trying to get it to shift.
And invariably they will miss the one point it lines up.
I keep telling them, just hold hard steady pressure.
 
Oh yes, most important of all....The first couple of times you use it, get a friend to stand behind you with a stick.
And if, when you get the cable wound up, you hook the hook on the shifter handle, have him hit you with the stick.

More people do that, leave the winch in gear, and forget to take the PTO out of gear until they hear the handle ripping off the winch..........
 
That's funny, it looks like the little, little, little brother of my Tulsa or Rufneck winch. Once that is rebuilt, I'm willing to bet that it will outlast 2 brand new hydro units, and out pull them too!!!

winch ruffneck 10.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom