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ideas for getting steering arm off knuckle

M

Md mudder

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I'm installing my 8" lift and am trying to get the old steering arm off the dana 44 knuckle took the three nuts off and have been soaking it in p.b. blaster for two days and wacking the
crap out of it with a big dead blow am I missing something or what?

<font color=green>Ryan</font color=green>
<font color=red> 84 pickup 454/400/208 <font color=red>
<font color=blue>79blazer 400 <font color=blue>
 
Hit it on the side instead of trying to hit it upward. When you hit it on the side, use you other hand to pry it up. Just a trick I learned when doing front ends.

86 Jimmy 4"lift 35"MTRs Other cars 69Firebird w/525 hp,and 70GTO live in PHX,AZ<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/modifierperformance>My vehicles</a>
 
Im curious about this also.

By the way, are the arms for a 10 bolt and a 44 the same? I bought the lift for my K5 but Im putting a 14/44 in at the same time. Didnt think about it when I bout the lift.Oops!
 
Yes, the arms are the same thing for the 10 and 44.

Some people have luck getting the old arm off and some dont. Really need a BFH and some luck.

I have done enough of these, I can get one off and a new one back on in 3 minutes!!!
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<font color=red>I'm a "black top mudder"!!!</font color=red>

<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/thatK30guy>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/thatK30guy</a>
 
I had the same problem a few years back on my 74 k5 Blazer (showtime) and what we had to do was heat it up with a torch (the steering arm) and quench it with water, then heat it again and quench it, repeat as needed....the expanding/contracting losened it up enough we just pulled it right off after (use welding gloves, it may still be warm.....it worked for me...just my 2 cents....ED
 
Just hit down on it and at the sides of it. DO NOT hit up on it. This will only cause the cone bushings seat themselves in there even tighter. You can use a drift puch or a dull chisel and and hammer and tap the part of the bushing that is sticking up out of the arm and this will help it to break the rusty contact that it has. BUT MAKE SURE YOU DONT MESS UP THE THREADS!!

"you know... the guy with the BAD A$$ spring perches!!!
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<a target="_blank" href=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</a>
 
Here are the items I used to get mine off successfully:
1. MAP gas
2. 10 lb sledge

Hitting it from the side, HARD. I was swinging at it like I was splitting logs! I busted a Craftsman dead blow, my 18 oz hammer, and used an enitre cylinder of propane.

Then I got fed up, swore at it a few times, drove off (in another car), and came back with the MAP and BFH!

As a side note, I had WHAILED one of the studs, and trashed the threads. GM still sells these for about $5 each. So if you hit one, its not the end of the world.

My .02

<font color=red>GOT MUD???</font color=red>
454/TH400/NP205 - 14BFF/D60/w/ 4.10s
<a target="_blank" href=http://24.10.209.54/bigolk5.htm>http://24.10.209.54/bigolk5.htm</a>
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thanks for the ideas i'll go at it with a sledge today if that doesn't work i'll go get the torch from work

<font color=green>Ryan</font color=green>
<font color=red> 84 pickup 454/400/208 <font color=red>
<font color=blue>79blazer 400 <font color=blue>
 
There are three cone washers on those nuts. You need to hit that arm from multiple angles. Beat the snot out of it. Once the first cone washer start to work itself up, it's all downhill. Try not to mangle the cone washers because your new arm doesn't come with new ones. I think they are $9.95 from a dealer and take forever to come in.
-- Mike

<font color=blue> At some point I'll be done building my truck and can actually go wheeling. Until then, I guess sex and alcohol will have to do.
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Hey Matt, how about you pay for a two-way plane ticket?!?!
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<font color=red>I'm a "black top mudder"!!!</font color=red>

<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/thatK30guy>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/thatK30guy</a>
 
Or......if you dont mind getting new studs for it, weld the nuts to the studs and back them off with an impact gun!!!
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<font color=red>I'm a "black top mudder"!!!</font color=red>

<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/thatK30guy>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/thatK30guy</a>
 
Isn't there a tool specifically for this that you can buy/rent at one of the auto parts stores?

<font color=red>"Maybe you could drive better with that cell phone up your azz?!!!"</font color=red>
 
Not that works any better than a hammer
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I got lucky taking it off of my spare front-end - one shot with the dead blow and it came right off with a little jiggling.

1 tequila 2 tequila 3 tequila Floor
<a target="_blank" href=http://pugsley.alloffroad.com>pugsley.alloffroad.com</a>
 
Welding nuts on doesn't work for sh!t...the heat takes the strength out of the bolt or stud and the impact will just twist em off, or the nut will just tiwst off ruining the stud...

Rene

<font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
 
thanks guys I got it today with about 20 good wacks with a big a$$ sledge and the tapered bushings started working loose.

<font color=green>Ryan</font color=green>
<font color=red> 84 pickup 454/400/208 <font color=red>
<font color=blue>79blazer 400 <font color=blue>
 
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