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Identify this noise plz!

R

RustBuket

1/2 ton status
Joined
Feb 21, 2003
Posts
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Location
Saskatchewan, Canada
Well yesterday I went out and found a big drift that was about knee deep to test out the new geo's. Well they work really good but now my truck makes a clunking noise thats coming from the rear and it speeds up/slows down with the truck so I'm thinkin d-shaft but its cold so I'd like any ideas before I go out to the garage (not heated) to fix it. Also, I noticed that the front hub was loose and a couple of the screws were missing that hold it it? Can I pick these up individually somewhere?
 
Well I put the rear end up on jack stands and blocked the front tires and ran it in drive. I put my hand on the t-case and I couldn't feel any banging there. I put my hand on the rear end and its definately coming from somewhere in the rear end? What tho? Could I have broken a tooth maybe? Also, what kind of lube do I need for the rear end? I think I'm going to drain and it and see if I can see anything wrong on the inside.
 
Gear lube is like 80w-90 for our trucks... some axles/applications heavier, some lighter, takes 2-3 quarts to refill

as far as the hub screws, i just went out to a junkyard and pulled a couple
 
Alright, I pulled the cover and apparently I have a gov-bomb and it followed the trend of blowing up in an untimely manner. I pulled out probably half a pound of steel and it looked like the lube had never been changed. It was pretty much grinding paste. I'm sure that didn't help the life span of the gov-bomb. So now what?I don't have any money cause I'm in the middle of my first year at university. What do you think?>

P.S. It still drives, it just makes a clunking noise.

Option 1) Drive it till it blows (which could be in the middle of no where)

Option 2) Try welding it up and hope to god the axle shafts don't blow up.

Option 3) Park it, wait till spring when I have some money to buy the 1 ton rear and 3/4 ton front off another member who lives close to me.
 
The "HELP" Rack

I recently saw the hub screws in that "HELP" brand of parts at one of the parts stores(pep boys or autozone,cant remember!)--or the local dealer,or junkyard--even a well stocked hardware store or home depot would have those allen head screws--bring one with you to match up!.

Most of the theives around here would just go to the nearest mall or wal mart parking lot and help themselves....:mad: --I came out and found my spare tire and jack had taken a walk recently--merry christmas!--now I have a chain and a lock on it,and a bald tire too--take THAT you fockin theives!!!..Tis the season to get ripped off,fa la la la la---:frown1: :frown1:
 
If you are sure the Gov Bomb is getting ready to fail, don't drive it. Mine failed on a city street. Luckily I was only traveling about 30MPH at the time. Locked up the rearend and brought me to a screeching halt. Had to have the truck put on a set of dollys because the rear axle would not move. If I had been going faster, I'm afraid of what the consequences would have been.


John
 
I would opt for #3. If you keep driving it it could be worse in the long run.
 
I recently saw the hub screws in that "HELP" brand of parts at one of the parts stores(pep boys or autozone,cant remember!)--or the local dealer,or junkyard--even a well stocked hardware store or home depot would have those allen head screws--bring one with you to match up!.
Click to expand...
the local store here only had the ones for the warn standar hubs, the premium hubs have a smaller thread. i picked some up at fastenal for like $2 for all 12
 
I'm pretty sure the carrier and the side gears are fine. I think its just the actual locking mechanism thats messed.

Oh yeah, and its a 12bolt.
 
Don't weld the 12 Bolt!

I may be very wrong but I have never heard of a gov-lock in a 12 bolt. :dunno: Anyone else? Are you sure it's not a locker? I apologize in advance if I am wrong. All said you deffinately don't want to weld up a 12 bolt. I have heard way to many horror stories.
 
I could be wrong. It could be a 10 bolt? I'm pretty darn sure its a gov loc anyways. So if I did weld it up, it would only have to last for a couple weeks because after that I'm not licensing it again till spring. So I just need to know if I can weld it up to work for a couple weeks just to have a vehicle to run around in.

I looked at the identification chart and I'm almost sure thats its a 12 bolt.
 
Dude, seriously.... Is your life or the life of someone else really worth "a couple weeks just to have a vehicle to run around in."?

Put the truck down now until you have the time and money to fix it properly. Bandaiding it by welding it is just asking for trouble.
 
If it is a 12 bolt it will say it on the axle. You have the same year blazer as I do and I have a 12 bolt. In all honesty waxer is right you should really consider what your doing and if it would be worth it.
 
Junkyard axle is easiest , junkyard open carrier may be cheapest . 12 bolts did come with gov-locs too . Driving on it won't do anymore , its toast . I got my 12 bolt out of a 5 lug truck and swapped shafts , so keep that in mind since 2wds are in yards as well :xmas:
 
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