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If money were no object

I am exploring the 2000-07 body style Suburban deeply. I'm concerned however because I can't seem to find an established SAS kit. Anybody know of one?

Even if there isn't a kit, a reputable shop will custom fabricate a front suspension for you no problem, and with the right shop it will be reliable and most likely handle better than a kit. With the wrong shop it will be dangerous.

And I wouldn't change your setting to 100 unless you want to sit there and wait every time you just want to check an update at the end of a thread. I find ~30 ppp to be the best of both worlds.
 
Not much aftermarket support for those years yet, would be my only concern.

98 was last year before they went to the 5.3 and stuff, the Tahoe got coils in 99.

My daily driving 98 has a Vortec and has full pwr, 3/4 ton with a 4L80E but has a 350 in front of it pretty rare from what I have heard, most had a BBC with the 4L80E. 98 was also a not good year for bolt on aftermarket support.
 
In my opinion you should fallow our site motto..."built not bought"

Tell your buddies at the golf course how your rig out performs their range Rover at a fraction of the cost and that you built it yourself...

Buy a welder, a bunch of tools and a square body chev and go for it.
 
Not much aftermarket support for those years yet, would be my only concern.

98 was last year before they went to the 5.3 and stuff, the Tahoe got coils in 99.
Nope, i'm sitting in my 5.7L 99 Tahoe right now. The Tahoe and suburban had the older body style until 99, whereas the pickups switched it up in 99.
 
I can only give you insight as to what I would build given your scenario (Mind you Id would keep your 80 series cause its the right width for the trails I traverse but thats another topic all together).

Platform: 95-00 Suburban. Im a huge OBS fan (aka Old body style 88-98 trucks). 99 and 00 were in between years sorta. They were the same general body style but a little more rounded and featured the newer generation of motors. That being said I feel the motor/stock running gear is void given how in depth you want to go here.

Personally I would shoot for a 95-98. Thats OBS body style with the newer much nicer interior than the 88-94. If you are going to build something for comfort than I would suggest you choose around the stock interior. Face the facts, you are changing everything else. Custom interior is one of the niche hard to do right things that is best left avoided.


Front Suspension: 3 link w/ panhard up front or a wristed radius arm setup with custom links. Dont follow the footsteps of my build and make the mistake of attempting to use ford style radius arms. Run dual rate adjustable coilovers, the packaging is super easy. Factory steering box with an added reservoir and good cooler will do, no need for hydro assist with your goals IMO.


Rear suspension: Good old leaf springs! 64in Chevy leaf springs with a shackle flip and a traction bar is all you need. Plus its way more adaptive given different loads than any coil suspension (unless you run airbags).

Engine/trans/tcase: Heres where I differ from a lot of peoples opinions. 4.8s/5.2s/6.0s are not the be all end all for power plants when your going to be toting around 8000lbs of truck.

The 8.1L 8100 Vortec big block was the last big block GM made. It came with an allison 5 or 6 speed behind it which are great transmissions. This motor could pull the friggin moon down to the earth with enough tow straps. It is hands down the best workhorse gasser ever produced and will move a big heavy truck around like its nothing. The down side is you will NEVER see over 12mpg if that. A GEN III or IV small block like a 6.0 will never touch the weight moving off the line capabilities of an 8100, period.

My suggestion is if you are open to a diesel to go with a tuned up 4bt or a later model duramax. They can reliably reach 300hp and 500ftlbs of torque with an amazing curve which will again move the truck off the line no problem.

For a trans I would run what ever was behind the given motor stock. the the 4bt I would buy a worked stand alone 4L80e.

Tcase wise your up in the air. Some of the newer chain driven tcases are really strong despite being aluminum and chain driven.


The rest: Dont get caught up thinking you need 44in tires to take the family on a medium trail reliably. 33s are small for one tons which a rig of this weight really needs as you already know. I would run a tire in the 35-38in range with a 12.50-13.50 width. Check out goodyear duratracs. They are excellent on and off road.

As far as axles you're on the right track. You said money is no option so I would skip the 14bolt rear. Pickup a dana 60 front and rear and run Jana install kits in them. This will give you dana 70 size gears in the dana 60 case with dana 60 clearance under the diff.

Again you said money is no object so RCV front axle shafts are warrantied up to 46" tires. Thats worry free right there. ARBs front and rear. SOLID (thats a brand) inner Cs and keyed knuckles with full hi-steer.

And generally speaking 5 inches of lift should do it with some nice pocket flares to open the fenders up. Plus all the regular stuff: roof rack, sliders, bumpers, winches, swing out spare tire carrier.
 
I get the feeling we're all kinda enjoying the thought exercise of building a truck with no money limit, with the likelyhood that it will actually get built. :D

if you go through with this, you absolutely must start a build thread and take lots of pics, even if you aren't the one doing the work. :P
 
I am more of the run as big a tire as your axle can handle and still be dead reliable.

But I am not a fan of big lifts, I like body mods. Not too hard to get away with 38s and 3-5" of lift and still have alot of uptravel. And have it look good.

Burbs ( no matter the year) are big and need stuff to go lots of places.

Depends though if I like taking the road less traveled. Sometimes that means roads that have not been maintained for decades, some have rockslides in them. Some are kind of washed out and forgotten.

I get the expo stuff but I have meant a couple of guys as of late who do it and honestly I would have taken my 79 Aspen station wagon with studded snow tires down those roads.

My drive out to the ranch I would work out looks worse than their "scary parts of the road"

I like to build for the worst possible wheeling scenario ( not always possible but you can try :D) then use the winch as the last resort, many expo guys use the winch as the first resort.

I do suggest you go out with a few different clubs, even bum a ride if the trail looks too hard.

Shoot come to blazer bash this fall, lots of different guys with lots of different ideas about how to build stuff.

I tend to build stuff stupid cause I am a crappy driver. And not always smart when I try something
 
You are going to get a bunch of opinions here, including my own. However, I would honestly try to send you a different path. Knowledge is what is going to let you decide on what you want/need. Read up on some build threads. It does not need to be a Suburban based build thread. I believe a long bed standard cab truck has the same wheel base. Check out every build that catches your eye or piques your interest. Everyone has an opinion and most are worth listening to but, knowledge is what is going to give you the ability to decide what you are looking for. Heck, I sometimes start a google search and look for images first. Then I get an idea of what it may look like when done. You said you want a 37" tire. Do a google search from there and see what others have done, problems that came up, solutions, whatever you like. At least that is how my last build started.

LT.
 
Thanks again guys, I will post a build thread as soon as I start building. As many of you have recommended, I have a lot of research and reading to do. In the mean time I am trying to find a 88-91 3/4 ton suburban and a 2003-07 3/4 suburban. Both vehicles can be purchased for very reasonable prices - I'm just looking for the cleanest foundation.

I promise to keep everybody updated with any progress.
How's this? http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/11237960

Or this? http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/11156314

Or This? http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/11093071

Seems like the old boxes aren't too rare.
 
Wow there's a lot of activity going on in this thread.

You know normally I'd be all for pushing the old body style trucks but in your situation with the wife and kids I'd just quit looking at anything older. If I could start over I'd buy a newer truck and do a SAS and be done instead of buying an old truck and changing everything.
Simple stuff like functioning AC/Heat/Defroster, cruise control, power windows/locks, and comfy seats are just a few things that are very standard in newer rigs that are normally few and far between on the old stuff. If it's going to be a toy I'd find a '95-'98 low mileage 3/4 ton suburban with the vortec 7400/4L80E combo and then spend your money on the front end and you'd essentially be done for what you're describing you want to do.
 
You know normally I'd be all for pushing the old body style trucks but in your situation with the wife and kids I'd just quit looking at anything older. If I could start over I'd buy a newer truck and do a SAS and be done instead of buying an old truck and changing everything.
Simple stuff like functioning AC/Heat/Defroster, cruise control, power windows/locks, and comfy seats are just a few things that are very standard in newer rigs that are normally few and far between on the old stuff. If it's going to be a toy I'd find a '95-'98 low mileage 3/4 ton suburban with the vortec 7400/4L80E combo and then spend your money on the front end and you'd essentially be done for what you're describing you want to do.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^ this.............
 
Thanks again guys, I will post a build thread as soon as I start building. As many of you have recommended, I have a lot of research and reading to do. In the mean time I am trying to find a 88-91 3/4 ton suburban and a 2003-07 3/4 suburban. Both vehicles can be purchased for very reasonable prices - I'm just looking for the cleanest foundation.

I promise to keep everybody updated with any progress.
How's this? http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/11237960

Or this? http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/11156314

Or This? http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/11093071

Seems like the old boxes aren't too rare.

None of them they are all 1/2 ton, if you do not know, UT lift laws are based on the door GVWR so the higher the number the higher the trucks frame off the ground can be. So your 3/4 ton idea is the better of the two.
 
None of them they are all 1/2 ton, if you do not know, UT lift laws are based on the door GVWR so the higher the number the higher the trucks frame off the ground can be. So your 3/4 ton idea is the better of the two.

Is the frame the same between a 1/2 and 3/4 ton in a burb?
 
Another vote for the newer style truck, as new as possible. Modern drivetrain, functioning climate controls, quieter interior, more creature comforts, etc. What you DON'T want to hear from the family is "Oh, we're taking the old beast on a trip again?" after spending whatever money to build it just the way you want it. Old trucks are..... old. Squeaks, creaks, rattles, barely adequate a/c, road noise, wind noise, wind noise, and more wind noise. Spend 6 hours driving something like that to a destination and everyone in the truck is just plain worn out by the time you get there.

Granted, an old truck can be updated, made quieter, more modern, etc. But, since you are not doing the work yourself, you will pay MORE than buying a newer truck to have this done.

I also like the idea of having a newer truck with the modern powertrain originally equipped simply for the reasons of repair/maintenance. If you break down somewhere or need repairs, even regular maintenance, it will be easier in the end for the shop doing the work to get the parts needed. No mismatched stuff, no hard to find, or "My computer doesn't show a 6.0 engine for a 91 Suburban. It says 5.7 though..." :doah:

If I were in your shoes it would be a mid 00s Burb, 3/4 ton with either the 6.0 or 8.1 gasser and 4L80E trans. D60 front, 14bff rear with 37" tires and 4.88 (maybe 5.13) gears. Lift as low as possible, trim body/add flares to accomodate. A good quality on board air system or CO2 tanks to air the tires back up. A good front winch bumper and winch and rear bumper with spare tire carrier as well as some rock sliders with built in steps for easier cab access. Mix well and enjoy.

Oh, and it's true that awesome parts can sometimes make up for lack of driving skill, they can also get an unskilled driver into trouble. Take the time to learn how to drive your truck. Know what it can and can't do before finding out the hard way. :waytogo:
 
My self, I would build a suburban version of this http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=290050 (look at pics from last 2 pages). with enough body panels left to be a decent road cruiser too. I love everything about this Blazer and would LOVE to do all of that to my burb and DD it:thumb:

(I'd probably stay with 37-38" tires and a lower lift still though.)
 
131_0809_73_z+ultimate_adventure_2008_ua_z71+web_exclusive_part_4.jpg
 
None of them they are all 1/2 ton, if you do not know, UT lift laws are based on the door GVWR so the higher the number the higher the trucks frame off the ground can be. So your 3/4 ton idea is the better of the two.
this one is 3/4 ton:
http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/11237960
or am I missing something?

just remember, if you are going to go that old, a lot of the creature comforts the family is going to want are going to be missing. if you really prefer that body style, don't let us talk you out of it, but if you like the newer stuff too, stick with that.

swapping in a front axle is a lot easier than redesigning an interior and beefed up A/C. :D
 
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