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If you change a yoke on a front Dana 60...

mountainexplorer

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... could you explain to me the negative effects (if any) of a person just zipping off the nut, pulling the yoke and putting another yoke on, then tightening the nut back on?

(I'm no gear expert, but aren't there issues of "pre-load" and stuff that need to be addressed when doing this?)
 
if you measure your preload first and then get it the same with a new yolk you should be fine. But if the new yolk is to much different in size you will have to get a new crush sleve
 
There is no crush cleeve in a 60 front, just shims. There *should* be no problem with zipping the nut off like you said. As long as the new one get's torqued back to the same place as the old one. Can you tighten the nut on the loose yoke any further? If not, then the new, bigger yoke is different than the one used to set up the gears originally. Or the bearings are shot of course.
 
cegusman said:
I don't think there is a crush sleave in the dana 60, just shims.


Correct. Also, pinion preload is determined by shims. You can take off the yoke, and put the new one on, making it as tight as you can, use loctite.
 
So if I wanted to change to a larger yoke (1410) I wouldn't have a problem (on a dana 60)?? It seems like I heard before that it was more complicated than this...maybe it was the 14 bolt they were talking about. I think the 14 bolt uses a crush gasket right???? So with the crush gasket you would have to masure preload:confused: ?
 
Correct, its that easy. Yes the 14b does use a crush sleeve. Your supposed to crush the sleeve and measure the preload, which I always have done by feel. Even then you could pull the sub carrie out, take it to a shop and im sure they will do it for you free of charge, we would anyway.
 
What year? The newer ones do. I dont know specifically what year. You could call up a place like West Coast Differentials (800-510-0950) and they'll tell you if it does or not.
 

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