What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

If you could do it all over again...

S

SHAPER

Registered Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2006
Posts
68
Reaction score
0
Location
Western PA
1. How would you build it? With what intention of use? What frame? Components? Accesories? Why?

2. In what order would you do it if you could only spend $500-1500 a session (or phase) until the project's "completion"? While still being able to wheel it as much as possible?

And finally...

3.What do you think could of been done better, done in a different order, or done differently all together, in your current build?

-----Thought this might be fun to see all the differences and similarites in how we all forsee the "perfect" build.
 
Given my credit , and income , and what I intend to use it for . I wouldn't really change a thing . I have always wheeled it as I went .

Now if I was wealthy , it would be alot different :wink1:
 
Pretty much just like I have. Of course, if I had $500-$1500 a session, I would have a new crate motor from GM, and then I would finally grab a clutch and the hydraulic stuff I need to drop the the drive train in. Seriously, if you have $500-$1500 a session you can build a rather nice rig. I'm assuming a 'session' is roughly once a quarter. Anyhow, I would do it in the same order I did with the exception of one item. Cage first. Then axles/gears/lockers. Lift/tires. Then tranny if I needed to swap to a manual. Then bumpers/winch. Then body modifications to adjust the body to fit my driving style a little more with a little less carnage. Engine if needed.

Say your session is once a quarter, within a year and a half you could feasibly have a nice trail rig. Some items will be less than $500, others will be more than $1500. That is assuming you buy a lot of stuff instead of fabrication/bartering. You can save buku dollars buy just bartering. Most people can't fab their own gears in the garage, but bartering is always an option.
 
Well my build hasn't really started yet so i'll say i am on my way to the perfect build. It will be how i want it. I've gotten alot of good ideas and i plan on using them.
 
6" lift instead of 4", 38s instead of 35s, would have went all out on the motor the first time, and I should have done a little better QA on the paint job.
 
Yeah I have already had a pricey "first build", and had to take it in the butt when I sold it, so now I am taking the cheap route and going slow while I collect parts cheaply and check out other ideas and what not. Plus there is alot less to regret if I sell it down the road since I wont have alot of money tied up in it.

Though something I would do differently on this build if I had money period, would be to get my hands on a banks turbo for my m1008, np205 with parking brake setup, and put discs on the rear.



Remington
 
If I had it to do over, I'd pull up all the floor coverings BEFORE I got it all we from topless mudding. It sat for a week and the insualation under the matt got all gross.

I'd probably go for a newer model or one with a TBI swap done, not that the Q-jet has performed badly.
 
I would do a better job of hiding the keys from my brother. he caught it on fire and set me back big time. I used to drive it legally on the street, now its a trail only rig. :( I still have lots of fun with it and care a lot less about body damage but it was nice to drive it every once in a while.
 
If I had to do it all again:

I would pretty much do what I did.

Stock, to 33's, to 4" and a detroit, to breaking 1/2 ton stuff, upgrading to 1 tons, going to 37's and a detroit in the front, breaking 30 spline outers, and then as it sits now.

I'm not entirely happy with the setup I have now, i.e. I kinda wish I had built a buggy from the ground up. But gradually building the truck and learning about all of this was well worth it.

I'm glad I built it in steps because that kept the truck on the trail most of the time. This year I drove my (then fullsize) Blazer to EJS and had it wheeling as a truggy by June. That's probably the most down time my truck has had during the wheeling season here.

I like building and wheeling and this truck has supplied me with both so I can't complain much ;)
 
I would have built a tube chassis right from the jump.
 
The answers to this could be brutally long but I'm glad I went through the costly stages. My old truck started with a 350, 1/2 tons & 38's and eventually progressed to a roller 468, 1 tons & 44's. Each of the steps give me better perspective, experience and hopefully made me a better wheeler.

If I had to pic a couple of things I'd make sure that I did (and sooner) would be a low range box (Doubler, Lomax, etc) and performance oriented fuel injection (not an OE tbi set up, something like Edelbrock mpfi).
 
Hell, I wish I had started. Wish I had 500 for a session so far im on my first session and have only spent that including the truck.
 
I let a clean 90' K5 6.2 with a banks turbo slip by me for $3500 in 2001. If I could do it all over, everything would be different. I like my truck and all those between 2001 and now, but hind sight is 20/20 as they say.
 
3car said:
I let a clean 90' K5 6.2 with a banks turbo slip by me for $3500 in 2001. If I could do it all over, everything would be different. I like my truck and all those between 2001 and now, but hind sight is 20/20 as they say.
Click to expand...

How specifically would you do it differently?
 
Cowboy_80 said:
Pretty much just like I have. Of course, if I had $500-$1500 a session, I would have a new crate motor from GM, and then I would finally grab a clutch and the hydraulic stuff I need to drop the the drive train in. Seriously, if you have $500-$1500 a session you can build a rather nice rig. I'm assuming a 'session' is roughly once a quarter. Anyhow, I would do it in the same order I did with the exception of one item. Cage first. Then axles/gears/lockers. Lift/tires. Then tranny if I needed to swap to a manual. Then bumpers/winch. Then body modifications to adjust the body to fit my driving style a little more with a little less carnage. Engine if needed.

Say your session is once a quarter, within a year and a half you could feasibly have a nice trail rig. Some items will be less than $500, others will be more than $1500. That is assuming you buy a lot of stuff instead of fabrication/bartering. You can save buku dollars buy just bartering. Most people can't fab their own gears in the garage, but bartering is always an option.
Click to expand...

Can you tell us why you would do it in that order?
 
SHAPER said:
I'm surprised you havent built one by now, Kurt. ;)
Click to expand...

I might be building one pretty soon. Not for me but a customer. I will build one for myself eventually. I kinda like to stick to the plan and finish what I started! EHEM!:haha: That was inside. Sorry not trying to hijack. Somewhat on topic though.
 
easy, buy a stock good condition truck next time!

then i'd work motor, trans, tcase, axles, tires/rims, cosmetic, interior
 
I would've done a 383 crate motor from the start. I also would not have done the doubler, but I would have done a STAK or an Atlas. However, the STAK wasn't available when I started my build and the Atlas came out with new models after I was well into my doubler project. This is because the doubler makes that part of the driveline quite long and shortens the rear driveshaft. You also have to contend with two crossmembers. I also bought some cheap racing style reclining knock off seats off of Ebay for $200 for the pair. They look cool and work, but are somewhat uncomfortable. I would have swapped in a pair of newer Bronco seats (the passenger seat slides forward far enough to enter the back) or some more expensive custom seats. Everything else I am happy with.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom