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Ignition getting hard to turn

Mastiff

Mastiff

1/2 ton status
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Tucson, AZ
I just noticed how hard it's getting to turn the ignition switch on my CUCV. I'm going to try just spraying some WD40 in there, but has anyone been down this road before? Is there some underlying problem I should be aware of? It just takes a lot of effort to turn, and it seems like more effort the further off lock it is. :dunno:
 
There is a rack and pinion in the column along with an ignition activator rod, both maybe have old grease on them which has accumulated dirt and debris causing them to operate more difficult. Along with the key switch itself, I took my column apart and cleaned the moving parts and lubricated them with some Dri lube...work like hot butter now!
 
The actual ignition switch at the base of the column might be part of the issue too. It's a really primitive arrangement of sliding copper parts...I have carefully taken them apart before and cleaned up all the guts of the switch. Made a difference for me.
 
WD40 really isn't a good lubricant...plus it picks up dirt so eventually could make things worse.

Not real tough to tear these things down far enough to get to all the lock cylinder/ignition switch components.
 
i have the same problem. ill go to shut everything off and it feels almost like cold grease. once i get it turned off its fine again for a couple days/weeks.

you say its easy to take these appart, anyone have a diagram? i like to know what im looking at/for befor i take things like this appart.
 
Is it necessary to pop off the steering wheel and lock cylinder to gain access?

Yeah, I know WD40 isn't good lube, but it seems good at getting into places and dissolving crud. If I actually get in there I'll use grease or whatever seems most appropriate.
 
I would suggest searching here for "steering column teardown" or something along those lines. If you can't find any with pictures, check google. The car columns from about 1973-1995 are all essentially about the same as well, slight variances throughout the years, but generally the same.

First step is removing the steering wheel, but things like the turn signal switch assembly can just be moved out of the way, as opposed to removed. Removing the lock cylinder once the wheel and lock plate are out of the way, is easy. I don't know as you can get to the ignition rack without really tearing it down, but a visual guide should show that portion.
 
I had the same problem and fixed mine by opening up the actual switch (as mentioned before) and not the keyed cylinder. The switch has several contactors and springs, so take care when prying the cover off. If a spring comes free it can scatter parts all over the place (ask me how I know). It's lubed with what looks like dielectric grease. Mine had gotten thick and sticky over time. Cleaning it up and using a little lithium grease cured my issue.
 
ktmoutfront said:
I use hopps 9 gun lube after it is cleaned.
Click to expand...


I love the smell of Hoppes #9! Well, the cleaning fluid anyway. Brings back memories of time spent with my dad cleaning the guns after either a day of hunting or target shooting at the range. My dad died young (55yrs) when I was just 22 and now I'm 52. Been 30yrs already and I quietly miss him. Don't really let many know, especially my mom, that I really do. She does a lot also and she doesn't need any added emotion. My son (23yrs) and I were spending a lot of time together then he got a job in FL and moved down with his mom there. I miss the hell out of him as we were just getting to the kind of relationship my dad and I had when he passed. My son and I were also doing a lot of shooting together and cleaning the guns with the #9. At least he's coming home for 8 days during Christmas.
 
Just getting around to looking at this. Looks like the column has to come apart to do this right. Curious though, can someone tell me the function of the white module? I watched it while I cranked the engine and the rod didn't move. Where is the wire located for the starter, second pic?

20131130_113247.jpg


20131130_113327.jpg
 
The first pic, that rod going to the switch is for your brights, not ignition. The ignition switch is on top, and down lower on the column. For much easier access and visibility you can remove the 4 bolts holding the column up, and let it hang down some.
 
tRustyK5 said:
The first pic, that rod going to the switch is for your brights, not ignition. The ignition switch is on top, and down lower on the column. For much easier access and visibility you can remove the 4 bolts holding the column up, and let it hang down some.
Click to expand...

Are you sure? I have the foot switch for brights.
 
A CUCV and stock GM's normally use the column mounted dimmer switch after 1975 I believe. If you have a floor switch that was added for some reason. Pull your directional lever back toward the wheel you will see that rod move and normally the switch would "click". Rusty is correct where the ignition switch is.
 
He is correct on the dimmer switch in the first pic and also in his description of the location of the ignition switch.

That appears to be a later model column if you say your dimmer is on the floorboard.
 
:doah: Sorry, my K5 has the floor dimmer, but this is the CUCV. I can't fool you guys, even if I wasn't trying to.
 
Messed around a bit more today. Found the rod for the ignition. The important stuff looks to be up the column. While playing around with it, I noticed I could see some mechanism moving around in the little opening between the upper column and the plastic tube that rotates with the shifter. I sprayed some WD-40 in there and it freed things right up. So, it may be temporary, but I'm good to go for a little while longer. :thumb:
 
Last year about this time my 87 Blazer started this and as it progressed it got where it was harder to get it to start (read key had to turn farther). The switch was fine however the pot(cast) metal in the column eventually broke on the coldest day it could. I had to replace my column because the column was locked and could not steer. Hope that don't happen to you.
 
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