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ignition ideas on 88 caprice/307 olds?

swedester

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Mar 11, 2006
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Gullspång,sweden
Got a 88 caprice with 307, and some dumb f**k have removed all of the emission controls.trying to get it drivable without spending a ton off money fixing all thats missing.my q. Is: how much timing advance should I give it now considdering that the computer runs the ignition in limp mode?
Going on a 800km trip tomorrow and need some ideas like yesterday.
 
You would probably be better off using an older distributor (HEI) with a vacuum advance powered by a separate 12 gauge hot wire thats only energized in the key on position...I think a 307 Olds uses the same distributor most all their other V8's used so it shouldn't be too hard to find one..(OH,your in Sweeden?..maybe it will be!:doah:)..

If there is a way to run a computerized engine "better" in limp mode ,someone else here will have to help you,I have practically zero experience with newer computer controlled engines...
 
What all is missing? I'm not sure what logic the ECM would be using if a bunch of stuff was removed, but if the ECM is still hooked up to the distributor, along with TPS, MCS, CTS, etc., then I would *think* there would be enough present for it to run.

If THAT stuff is disconnected, you have a distributor with no advance. Only thing I can think of at that point, is to loosen the distributor a tiny bit, start vehicle, advance it manually somewhat, and see if it will drive like that, but that would only be for a point a to b drive.

To actually make the car drivable, you only have two logical choices: replace/repair all the CCC components, or pull the distributor and carburetor, and swap for pre-1981 pieces, assuming 1981 was the changeover year for CCC over there, as it was here.
 
Everything is missing.nothing is hooked to the carb.and the wiring is cut.will drive as is over the weekend. Start searching for pre ccc stuff monday.tried loosening the dist and adjust but its siezed in the block.ghaaa!:banghead:
 
Yes, those Olds distributors are somewhat problematic. Getting them out of the block without destroying them is often very hard to do. IIRC there are flats on it for a wrench, but if you try too hard, the housing will just snap. Not sure of a "good" way to remove them, perhaps a torch to the surrounding intake metal, but that may cause additional problems.

As that is a "computerized" distributor, if you can remove it, it DOES have some value as a component to a fuel injection swap. That car could easily be fuel injected using any Chevy TBI setup, and the distributor is a key component.
 

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