Ignition issues on 89 blazer

[falcon]

Here's my issue fella's. 89 Blazer, new battery, starter and battery cables.
After it sits for a few days it will not turn over at all, just nothing to the starter. I have power everywhere else, lights are bright,etc but nothing happens when I turn the key. I have replaced what I call the starter relay, a 5 pin relay under the dash. When I turn the key I can feel this relay kick in, but it just kind of makes a low buzzing noise like its not quite making connection, but ive replaced it twice now, the ends are good,etc.
To get the blazer to start just a quick jump from another car and the starters spins like theres no tomorrow. It will than start perfect for a few days, once I leave it sit for a few days its the same thing, good juice everywhere but nothing to starter. No drain on battery. I thought it was a ground issue but put new cables on, posts and ends are shiny and tight, and battery is new and good.
Can anybody steer me in the right direction to go next? Thanks!

 

[dyeager535]

When you turn the key to start, the lights don't dim?

 

[frankin5]

what relay under the dash??? there is the ignition switch on column. The only relay is on the starter, starter solenoid. If it starts when jumped, I would be checking your connects to battery and starter. Have you checked the alternator output.

 

[falcon]

The lights DO dim when turning key, even though nothing to starter. The wires going into the ignition relay will also get warm, although ive been unable to find a schematic yet that shows where exactly those wires come and go.

 

[70jimmy]

Did you replace the solenoid when you replaced the starter? If not familiar with the terminology it is what you connect the wiring to on the starter.

Some people just buy the starter and not the solenoid. I would check the small wiring to the starter from ignition switch, also any junction boxes, voltage regulators it may have.

Other grounds, engine to body, body to frame.

 

[falcon]

Frankin, I put a new ingnition switch on column but didn't help. The relay im talking about is a 5 pin relay under dash near column. The blazer will not turn over with that relay removed, yet it will run with it removed. So hence I thot it was in the ignition system but im not sure what its tied to. Its a commom 5 pin relay that is pretty universal in other applications. When it wont start that relay will click and 2 of its wires will get warm as I hold the key in start position.
I guess I need to figure out exactly what that relay is.

 

[dyeager535]

<---- is an idiot.

 

[frankin5]

does it have or did it have an alarm on it. That would explain the relay.

 

[dyeager535]

Your battery is bad. You need to do a parasitic load test, if you are within "spec" for draw at rest, then your battery is almost certainly the problem. Yes, could partially be a charging system issue, however the truck would die while driving if that were the case. It wouldn't be fine for days.

It starts when jumped, which means the starter, and wiring from battery, to starter, to the cab is fine. The lights dim when you try and start it after a few days, which means something is draining power from the battery when you try and turn it over, again indicating ignition wiring is all good, but indicates a weak battery.

If there is a relay involved, it's not factory. It COULD be the result of some extra wiring garbage, but most likely it's going to still come from a weak battery (not able to pull and hold the relay closed, which is a symptom, not a cause) as it starts when you've got good current from a different charging system, the other vehicle.

You need a multimeter (/voltmeter is fine for this, but who has just that nowadays? lol), so if you have one, check for parasitic draw when the battery is "good", like after you've just run it for awhile. If there is an abnormal draw, fix it first, period. Do not waste your time doing anything else. Whether there is a draw or not, disconnect the battery, let it sit for a few minutes (they will drop from charging voltage after a little bit) then check the voltage, writing it down. Check again somewhat often as there is no reason to let it sit longer if voltage drops fast, but let it sit for as long as possible to simulate failure conditions while monitoring voltage if it holds. If voltage goes below 12V or so, you can be certain the battery is toast.

If battery maintains voltage well, after letting it sit, reconnect it and stand in front of truck. Have someone turn on the headlights without starting it, then have them turn on highbeams. If the lights dim fairly rapidly, the battery is toast. You should really do this test with a multimeter (check voltage before turning on lights, turn on lights, leave lights on, watch voltage as they are on) however the headlights are a pretty good draw, and should give a fairly decent visual indicator of voltage.

I will reiterate though that visual tests like that are subjective. A multimeter is an essential part of any toolbox, there is zero excuse not to have one and know how to operate it at least on a basic level. Tests like this should be done with a multimeter. You will waste FAR more money on replacing components guessing at the problem, than a simple multimeter will cost you ($20 max at HF), not to mention time and gas running back and forth to the parts store, not to mention jacking my cost up as you replace parts under warranty caused by other vehicle issues.