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Ignition switch or lock cylinder?

N

NEBlazer

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I've been meaning to sign up here, I've been trolling for a while. So here I go!

I go to start my K5 this morning and the lock cylinder won't turn into the start position. It goes back into the accessory position and forward to turn the ignition on. Then it just stops like it's bound up. I took the actual switch off lower in the column to see if that was bound up. With the switch removed I tried moving the rod up and down to get the lock cylinder to move and still it still won't budge. Any suggestions before I tear into the column? By the way it's an 85 with tilt column and auto.
Thanks
 
take the two big nuts off the dash, where the column is held up, so it drops down some, and search for that rod. It goes into (I've been sitting here trying to remember but even after rebuilding two columns I can't) something on the left side. That piece is adjustable where it mounts to the column. I'm sure something let loose or slide out of adjustment on you. That rod also runs between the plastic outer column and the steel inner tube (IIRC) sometimes it gets hung up in there.
 
I went ahead and bought a new switch because the old one was shot. Put it in and adjusted the rod correctly. Moves freely. The lock cylinder still won't budge past the ignition on position. Could the pins in my lock cylinder be worn out enough where it won't turn?
 
NEBlazer said:
I went ahead and bought a new switch because the old one was shot. Put it in and adjusted the rod correctly. Moves freely. The lock cylinder still won't budge past the ignition on position. Could the pins in my lock cylinder be worn out enough where it won't turn?
Click to expand...

Well, if the darn thing was a Ford, I would know exactly what was wrong. They have a rack and pinion gear train in there that will crack.

Its very unlikely, but possible that its the tumblers in the lock. But if it goes at all, it should go all the way.
More than likely its the cam, or whatever they use to convert rotary motion to linear motion to push the rod.

But, its been at least 20 years since I tore one down, so I'm not much help.
Should not take long for someone here with more recent experience to chime in.
I know lock cylinders pretty well, but not what comes after that.......
 
Found a diagram on the column. After looking at it. I'm guessing the actuator rack is my problem. (Can't post the diagram not enough posts)
Any tips on replacing the actuator?
 
2012-03-08_031156_steeringcollum_diagram.jpg

That right there.
 
true, could be a tooth off or a broken tooth. Find out what it is and post in the parts wanted section. Should get a hit for something like this.
 
How about that, almost the same as a Ford.
That is a rack and pinion just like a Ford. On them, its made out of pot metal, and will break.
As for replacing it, I have not dug down that far. I do know that the toothed wheel that rod is going into on the right side is spring loaded.
When you get to it, you have to push it down into the column and hold it down while you remove a small wire clip on the shaft.
Then it will slide up and off.

They make a tool, but you can do it without it.

If I remember right, tilt wheels are harder.

When I replaced the one on my Ford, part of the rack piece stuck down and prevented the ignition from turning unless it was in park or neutral.

However, a lot of stuff had to be removed to get that part in the slot. So, it suffered a tragic accident with a sawzall.

Went in nice and easy, works great, but you can crank it in gear now............

Like that worries me......
 
I saw those rack gears in the "HELP" section at Pep-Boys,not sure if they were for Ford or GM though...
 
Today I was just going to wire up a temporary starter switch with a push button so I could drive it until I could tear into the column. Then I was messing with the lock cylinder and the shifter lever, and noticed it won't go into gear in the ignition on position either. When I turn the key far enough to just unlock the column it shifts fine. It's just when I move it into the ignition position. Any more ideas? I just got this thing I want to drive it!
 
Just had the same thing happen in mine a month or two ago. Go get a lock cylinder. Make sure you have or get the tool for putting the steering wheel back on, makes it a ton easier.
 
Got it all apart the lock cylinder was bad. It wouldn't turn all the way to start. But there is still problems. It turns a little farther in start position but not all the way. If i take off the housing on the steering column that holds it and just place it on the shaft it turns it it will start it. I still can't take it out of park with the ignition on. I'm guessing something in my housing is screwed up? What causes it to lock the gear slector?
 
Ok, still not my area of expertise, but I'm gonna take a stab at it.
Look at the diagram where it says wedge shaped finger.

Unless I am mistaken, that finger has two slots cut in it that let the shifter slide by. If a slot is not lined up, then the finger blocks the shifter from rotating.

So, if the ignition switch is not in the "on" position when the slot is lined up, then you cannot get it out of park.

There are three basic things that can go wrong here, and you may have as many as two of them going on at the same time.

First, the lock cylinder will only turn so far. When it turns, it turns the little gear on the end of the shaft.
The one on the diagram that says sector.

Its possible that that gear could be one tooth off on the rack. I have seen that in Fords, but its obvious when it happens.
It may be that the cylinder is running out of turn before the rack is moved far enough.

The other thing that might be going wrong, is the switch adjustment. That wedge shaped arm is hooked directly to the pushrod.
When the arm has moved to the point where the shifter can move, the switch has to be in the "on" position.
If the switch is out of position on the column, then it will not be in the "on" position when the slot is.
So, you will have to turn the key until the shifter will shift, then adjust the switch so that it is in the "on" position.

But check the gear timing on the rack too.

If its off, you may have a lot of wear there. Unless something is cracked or worn out, it should not be able to jump a tooth.
 
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