1990 Suburban. Key will not turn the ignition to the off position. I can remove the key in the run position. Having to pull a fuse to turn it off. Anybody have a quick idea? I promise to do a better job of using the search function in the future.
CK5
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Ignition won’t turn off
- Thread starter DRYANKNPULL
- Start date
Mechanical failure of the ignition switch or ignition key lock. They are also connected with a rod/linkage that may be stuck. Given the description, most likely culprit is the key lock cylinder has failed and needs to be replaced. That is a 30 minute job if you have a steering wheel puller.
Is the key turning to the same location to start it. If not, the switch at the bottom of the column may have come loose or broke.
so to under stand the key cylinder is not turning ? They do wear and get sloppy, the key too. Do you have a second key ? If you have another key try that one and see if the cylinder will turn.
Mine did the same thing when it got cold in Wyoming. It would turn to start and the ignition would lock in the run position. I could wiggle it forward and back and it would eventually turn back
Do you have a tilt column? They can be problematic as they wear. If you do raise the column to make it as straight as possible, it may help until you identify the exact issue and can get parts. Worn tumbler and worn linkage in the column have both got me in the past.
Thanks for the replies. The last couple of times it didn‘t want to turn off. I jiggled around and got it off. This time nothing was doing. It does have a tilt and I tried moving the column to no avail. I ordered a new tumbler and what I hope is the appropriate steering wheel puller from Bezos that will arrive tomorrow. Glad to hear it’s a 30 minute project. That should equate to under three hours for me. I bought the truck from the original owner and was rather blown away that it came with both sets of factory keys after 32 years. Guess I’ll retire the ignition keys.
If your factory keys have the key code have a lock smith cut you a new one. It might work the cylinder just fine. Try the key with the least wear 1st.
The second challenge once you get the steering wheel off will be removing the lock plate. There is a special tool for it or you can push it down and remove the lock ring with a small screwdriver or pick.
nitro_rat
1/2 ton status
Get this lock plate tool. Any decent local parts store should have it on the shelf:
I can do this job in 5 minutes (local locksmith bet me that it would take 15 and lost).
Big screwdriver to remove clip on column shaft, 13/16 socket for steering wheel nut, hammer to break the taper on the steering wheel. #3 phillips for the turn signal switch, #2 for the hazard knob. I have a little torx screwdriver for the screw that holds the tumbler in, it's the same size as the one that gets the screws for tail lights and side marker lenses. Installation is reverse of removal.
Took longer to type that than it does to do it...
I can do this job in 5 minutes (local locksmith bet me that it would take 15 and lost).
Big screwdriver to remove clip on column shaft, 13/16 socket for steering wheel nut, hammer to break the taper on the steering wheel. #3 phillips for the turn signal switch, #2 for the hazard knob. I have a little torx screwdriver for the screw that holds the tumbler in, it's the same size as the one that gets the screws for tail lights and side marker lenses. Installation is reverse of removal.
Took longer to type that than it does to do it...
The steering wheel puller I ordered from Amazon is a kit that has the lock plate tool. Supposed to be in tonight….
I use a pointed pick and flat pocket screw driver to get the snap ring that holds the lock plate to the steering shaft.
Torx size t15 that @nitro_rat was trying to remember.
Torx size t15 that @nitro_rat was trying to remember.
Got it replaced. Thanks for the replies and advice.
